Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

throttle cable won't fully open weber


Recommended Posts

so the stock pedal on my 87 ea82 wagon wont fully open my weber.  It gets just to the point that the secondaries want to open but don't.  it was that way on my dfv and dgv, and even with a smaller linkage closer to the shaft its not anywhere near opening the secondary.

 

Has anyone had a similar issue and what was your fix?  I either need to allow the pedal to return closer to the firewall, or fab up some kind of lever or gear to allow the cable to pull farther than the pedal will move normally.

 

The pedal is lower at rest than the other pedals but it seems to have a normal amount of movement.  Going to look at it in the morning, thought I would get a jump start and see if its more common than it seems.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

some update on this.

 

got the linkage from sapper (thanks a bunch).  still having some issues though the throttle opens fully now.  the main issue is the linkage binds up when the secondaries just get touched by the lever that actuates them.  I double checked the shaft nut a bunch of times, does it loose and tight, and the shaft moves freely until the little lever touches the secondary linkage.  once it opens its free and smooth until whatever condition that causes it reoccurs (happens when driving so I cant tell yet what).  doesnt seem to be binding on gaskets or the adapter

 

It doesnt do it all the time and once you free it then it runs fine for a bit. the odd thing is that it seems to be that when you move the choke plates open by hand, even a quarter inch before you cycle the throttle then its completely smooth. I cant see anything where one would affect the other, but its worked 100%.  I pull in and kill it, cycle the linkage softly by hand, bump, bump, push choke plate open another 1/4 inch, butter smooth.  is there something connecing those systems that I dont know about?  if I open the choke plate with the choke adjustment until it doesnt bind then its open too far and the car hesitates when lightly off throttle.

 

thats another thing, I always thought that normal operation should be the choke plates completely vertical but this guy doesnt want to run that way.  stock setup from the factory the choke once kicked down is still pretty closed and even at fully warm its only open 1/8 of and inch or so, though it opens once throttle is applied.  runs beautifully this way though, if I open up the choke fully vertical even at full temp kicking the fan on it stumbles badly at light throttle.  the instructions say to pin the choke fully open to tune in the motor, which I do, but then they come mostly shut again. 

 

I have no idea what is causing these two issues to seem connected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guess im just trippin. It's the secondary linkage itself I think. You can press on the joint between the primary and secondary and feel it's bound. Seems to be the actual secondary thats the culprit. Ill keep checking if side flex or domething releases it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took the carb off and found the set screw for the secondary stop wasnt even touching, so I think it was closing too far and binding against the carb tunnel. Seems to have fixed it.

 

Is there a setting for this? I just ran the car and turned it until I got the slightest change in idle. Didnt even throw off the normal settings, but it's not sticking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure which carb adapter plate you are running, But I had perviously used a slightly cheap one piece adapter, and the butterfly on the secondaries hit the adapter just barely when opening them. It would cause them to stick occasionally. When I opened them with my fingers, I had enough force to open them, bit the cable didnt. Acted exactly like the cable wasn't moving far enough randomly. Drove me nuts until I figured out what was actually causing it.

Took a file to the inner edge of the adapter and didnt have a problem after that. May not be the case with yours, but it might be worth looking at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

using the transdapt 1 piece, doesnt seem to be the issue.  after adjusting the set screw on the secondary the bind went away, now its just finding a correct proceedure for setting it (though its doing very well so im not in a panic about it). 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...