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need some info 98 Outback


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12 replies to this topic

#1 mickytrus

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 10:36 AM

   Hello,

 

    Be on this forum for a while now.  very familiar with   EA82's in Loyale's.

 

I just got a 98 Outback  L.   It is rather far from my home. I will pick it up and drive it back

but, I have to do some work to it..... Need some info........ on specifics  for the repairs....

 

 

I must do some Brake Work:

 

           How are the calipers bolted on

              Are  calipers held on by two bolts    that are 17mm?   if not  please explain, thanks!

 

 

         Replacing  Brake Rotors

             

               Can you tell me about the Axle nut holding the hub on.....

             I am not familiar with this   type of nut.....

             Old Subies use cotter pins on their axle nuts....

               Please fill me in....

 

                        Are they (use them once - axle nuts)

                        What Size are they?  MM

                        what are they torqued  to?

 

 

              Motor Information

 

                 The vehicle was  setup with having to meet California emissions....

 

                  THe motor was replaced...... about 70 K ago?

 

                  The motor was replaced with an EJ22

                  The motor runs wells though it   does have a misfire.....

                   I am going to replace   the plugs   and the ignition wires

                   Can you tell me about the  ignition coil ??????

                   They are under 40 dollars.... for these 2.2L motors......

                   Should I just go and change the ignition coil????????????

 

                    Timing Belt   Info

 

                         I will do a timing belt //////  belts....

                         How long are belts good for on   2.2L motors?

                         What size is the lower pully nut???????    MM

                         I have done many of these on  1.8l EA82's......

                         Anything new that I need to know???????

 

 

 

     I think that is it..........   Thanks, Micky



#2 idosubaru

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 12:33 PM

32mm axle nut.  22mm crank pulley bolt.

 

60,000 miles belts.  how long they're good for depends if they're cheap aftermarket, OEM, how old they are, how long they've been sitting...etc..

 

brake calipers will be 12 or 14mm bolts

rotors aren't bolted on with the axle nut.  they're not bolted on at all - originals will have a set screw that in the rusty areas needs a high quality impact driver or drill it out.

but you don't need to replace the rear rotors, they routinely last the life of the vehicles, particularly rear rotors.  even if they're rusty and gouged, just run them, it'll wear off.



#3 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 12:52 PM

not sure how ea82s handled parking brake, but on the present car, there are little shoes in side the rear disks - might need to back-off the 'star' adjusters to clear any lip worn into the drum 'area' if you do decide to pull the rotors.

Subaru brakes are good components and rotors should be kept if they meet minimum thickness stamped on them.

I would buy Centric brand rotors.

#4 wtdash

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 01:56 PM

+1^

 

The Caliper bracket bolts that connect to the hub are 17mm. The caliper slider bolts are 14mm that connect to the bracket.

 

There should be 2 holes that a 8 or 10mm bolt will screw into to 'push off' the rotor if stuck....like using a puller.

 

Crank pulley is 22mm / 7/8". There's an access hole underneath the TB that a long screw driver or similar tool can be used to hold the flexplate  - if an Automatic / 4EAT.

 

1990-1996 EJ22 had the HLA self-adustable valves ('90-'95 had dual port heads); '97-'98 were SLA (screw adjuster - '96-'98 had Single-port). Look under and see if you have a dual-port or Single-port exhaust to help determine the type. You might need to adjust the valves if SLA.

 

I'd replace the plugs and wires b4 the coil pack....and they're usually cheap @ the local Pull and Save, if you're a visitor.

 

There are FSM's posted online that can help w/these as well as many DIY posted on Youtube, etc.

 

GL,

Td


Edited by wtdash, 17 July 2017 - 01:58 PM.


#5 john in KY

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 05:23 PM

New brake pads means the caliper pistons will have to be recessed. The first thing I do is use a long screwdriver as a pry bar to force the piston back. Really helps to also crack the bleeder valve because that fluid has to go somewhere. 



#6 wtdash

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 05:51 PM

>>.and take the cap off the brake master cylinder>>>make sure it doesn't overflow.



#7 Rooster2

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 06:22 PM

New brake pads means the caliper pistons will have to be recessed. The first thing I do is use a long screwdriver as a pry bar to force the piston back. Really helps to also crack the bleeder valve because that fluid has to go somewhere. 

easier using a "C" clamp to push back the piston, instead of using a large screw driver, IMHO



#8 forester2002s

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 08:52 PM

Yes, a C-clamp makes it easy to compress the piston.
I use an old brake-pad (reversed) between the 'mushroom' end of the clamp and the piston face.

#9 john in KY

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 11:19 PM

I own a screwdriver but not a C-clamp. 



#10 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 08:00 AM

i've used an old pad as a lever to do the push-back

just use w'ever and don't cut the dust boot and try not to score the rotor

#11 mickytrus

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 10:43 AM

Thanks for the info....  This all surely helps.....

 

   As for the Axle nut:::::   As I had mentioned the old gens  used cotter pins through the nut (as Caster nut) similiar to the tierod end and the ball joint....

    So these  Outback  L's     don't use a  Caster nut to hold the axle(and everything) together......

    Can you tell me about this 32MM Nut.... 

                                               Is  it reuseable?

                                               what do you torque it to?

                                               And like   Why doesn't it get loose after tightening(due to not cotter pin) why does it stay tight?????

 

 

     This car has the 5 speed trans.........

 

               So the set up for the timing belt

                                                                            I am figuring it is similiar to the EA82's...that there is   2 timing belts and 2 tensioners? is that correct????

 

 

 

         Regarding brake work

 

 

                       Yeah, I will make sure I bring a C clamp............

 

                       So I won't replace rear rotors   (cool!)

 

                       The front driverside rotor is seriously warped....... I think the caliper is seized..........

                       do you think   I can free it up????? with the clamp......

                                                  and  is it possible that the  caliper is not really seized but it is not sliding on sliders properly???????

 

 

 

              As for EA82  trivia and what subies used to do

 

                Yeah so,  

                          as for the calipers  and  compressing the piston on and  EA82 gen

                         a funny looking tool was required........   the tool would fit onto a 3/8" drive extension

                          and you would rachet clock wise (like threading a nut and bolt) to bring the piston

                          inward for putting on a new set of pads.  the tool had these points on it to grasp the

                          piston and spin it inward within the bore of the caliper.........     I think several

                          manufacturers were doing this during, this time period.....  my tool looks like a cube

                         it can be attached to a 3/8" extension  4 possible ways, giving  the user of the tool

                         for different  ways to grasp pistons and spin them in........  (cute!) but  sorta stupid.....

                         I wonder why this was done this way......(what was the benefit, if any??)

 

                      As for  Ebrake

                                   gotta say!   bet Ebrake ever invented.........   It is a front Ebrake.....

                                   two beefy cables come from lever at the center consol, which could

                                   be adjusted there for play...... they then went to either side of vehicle

                                   directly to each front caliper.....  There, there was a very beefy lever that

                                   they attached to........ They work very very very welll.......

                             Also       

                                  very nice was   the (clutch brake)   ON Std trans.........

                                  Here, you push in clutch, and an additional cable went to an interesting

                                  set up near the master cylinder and spun mechanical energy from 

                                   this additional cable( off of throw out bearing shifter fork)   to create

                                   hydraulic pressure to apply brakes while clutch was pressed in,

                                    this was great on hills.......  and those in the REAL OUTBACK(Australia)

                                   loved this set up..... along with the older gens.... which had an actual

                                   transfer case for some serious gear reduction..............

 

So  thanks for helping me with this...

              and I look forward to more replies to this tread.......

              regarding the questions I  am asking in this reply to this post...

 

      Micky         



#12 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 11:11 AM

axle nut is staked into a slot, but my corded electric impact can buzz them off. Otherwise, big cheater needed. many people reuse the nut, book says new nut. Final torque should be done off the ground - I 'buck up' the rotor with a big screwdriver in a vent - up against the brake caliper. Rebuilt axles are horrible - 1 good one for every 8-10 bad ones. Used Subaru OEM, maybe regreased and rebooted(check car-part.com or LKQ), or even new chinese axles (FEQ or maybe EMPI brands?) better than most rebuilt axles.


one TB on that motor - you can search for images and youtube videos for examples.


Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 18 July 2017 - 11:15 AM.


#13 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 09:52 AM

mickytrus - how's the car?




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