Help please. Problem with 2007 Outback

[SubieRoobieRoo]

Hi. I recently bought this car from a dealer in Virginia, AutolineVA, never, ever go there. I flew to Virginia from California to buy it. They neglected to tell me about the cracked head. It was a fun drive home.

 

The car is an LL Bean, so it has the H6. I immediately took it to Ken Fowler Subaru in Ukiah, CA to get it fixed. They proceeded to charge me $4,500 to replace a cracked head, but that was only after they quoted me $2,300 to do the job.

 

Yeah, this has been a 3 month nightmare that has cost me over $12k so far. But wait, there's more!

 

Within 1 mile of leaving Ken Fowler Subaru it throws 3 codes:

P0011- Intake Cam Position Timing Over Advanced Bank 1

P0018- Crank Position Cam Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A

P0016- Crank Position Cam Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A

 

The car is running poorly and the transmission is shifting erratically.

 

They charged me $120/hr for labor and the mechanic didn't set the timing correctly. Is there anything else that could cause these codes? 

 

Is this an interference engine? I swear I can hear a ticking when it's running. I just picked the car up at closing time on Friday. Tomorrow is going to be a day of reckoning and I want to have as much ammunition as possible.

 

Thanks.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Why would you go to heart of the rust belt in VA to buy a car? There's tons of those for sale here in Oregon.

 

You got reamed by the used car dealer, and then took the car to a Subaru dealer for repair? I.... I just can't even.... wow.

 

Find a reputable independent Subaru specialist. The dealer is not this. The Subaru dealers can't find good techs and their online training is abysmal. Seriously the Subaru dealer service department is in very bad shape at most dealers. Don't go there.

 

Sounds like either the timing is set wrong, or there are oil delivery problems to the phasers.... combined with the ticking noises I would say at least potentially you have an oil pressure issue which could be catastrophic. DO NOT run the engine. At all. DO NOT drive it. Even a foot. Tow the car to the best independent Subaru specialist you can find AFTER you have a conversation with them about their H6 experience.

 

I doubt this ends well. Just saying.

 

GD

Edited August 27, 2017 by GeneralDisorder

[SubieRoobieRoo]

Why would you go to heart of the rust belt in VA to buy a car? There's tons of those for sale here in Oregon.

 

You got reamed by the used car dealer, and then took the car to a Subaru dealer for repair? I.... I just can't even.... wow.

 

Find a reputable independent Subaru specialist. The dealer is not this. The Subaru dealers can't find good techs and their online training is abysmal. Seriously the Subaru dealer service department is in very bad shape at most dealers. Don't go there.

 

Sounds like either the timing is set wrong, or there are oil delivery problems to the phasers.... combined with the ticking noises I would say at least potentially you have an oil pressure issue which could be catastrophic. DO NOT run the engine. At all. DO NOT drive it. Even a foot. Tow the car to the best independent Subaru specialist you can find AFTER you have a conversation with them about their H6 experience.

 

I doubt this ends well. Just saying.

 

GD

I lived in Virginia for many years, it's not rust belt. Look at the prices. You can get a Subaru on the east coast for several thousand less than the west coast. I've owned several Subies. Also, my mom lives in Virginia, so I used it as an excuse to go visit her.

 

I took it to a Subaru dealer because I was given some stupid, crappy 90 day warranty, so I wanted to take it to a shop that would have experience dealing with these people. They did cover a whopping $1700 of the $4500.

 

$4500 to replace a cracked head. Just writing that makes me so mad that I want to kill something.

 

Oh, at this point it can't end well. It's already way too FUBARed for that. I'm just trying to mitigate my losses. This is a nice car with 90k miles, it does have some value.

[Gloyale]

I lived in Virginia for many years, it's not rust belt. 

 

Bulk crap it isn't.

 

mountainous state where it snows and nobody uses chains.

 

They salt the crap out of the roads.  No quite wisconsin or Michigan rust, but certainly more salt exposure than a west coast car.  And how the hell are you going to get it through smog.

 

IDK what to tell you, but definately get it to someone who knows Subarus.....and that is not the dealer.

[SubieRoobieRoo]

Bulk crap it isn't.

 

mountainous state where it snows and nobody uses chains.

 

They salt the crap out of the roads.  No quite wisconsin or Michigan rust, but certainly more salt exposure than a west coast car.  And how the hell are you going to get it through smog.

 

IDK what to tell you, but definately get it to someone who knows Subarus.....and that is not the dealer.

Man, you are utterly clueless. Get it to pass smog, LMAO. It will pass smog like every other vehicle I have ever bought and brought into California. 

[Gloyale]

Lots of subarus were not made for California emmisions.

 

even with an exemption, there is a fee for out of state vehichles.

 

And it certainly won't pass smog running like the poop bucket you claim it is now, eh?

 

I paid $3500 for a perfect running, zero rust Oregon LL bean H6 8 months ago.  I saw similar cars in California ads.  My father lives there and buying a car and bringing it out of Cali is easy, so I was shopping in that market too.

 

You're the one paying that and every, by your own statements, "outrageous" cost of buying a salt belt state car with a beat engine and then getting some dumb rumproast to improperly fix it and transporting it 3000 miles across the country. 

 

So who is clueless?  tell me again?

[1 Lucky Texan]

here, I think shops must charge within 15% of a written estimate - did you get a written estimate?

 

I agree that there is likely an issue with the oil-controlled valve phasers or their switches/sensors. Oil pressure should probably be confirmed after that much work.

 

if it didn't have the present problems going into the dealers shop, could easily be from their work on the car.