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Using VW trailing arms and axles on EA81 chassis


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Just curious if anyone has ever used VW trailing arms on an EA81 chassis so that Porsche 930 CV axles, better brakes, endless after market support, better shocks, etc has ever been attempted.

 

It looks to me like the trailing arm mounting tabs on the torsion bar tube would have to be modified, and possible the bolt holes for the torsion bar plate.

 

Than using Subagears R160 flanges you can convert the rear diff to be able to use Porsche 930 rebuild able CV's which also offer A LOT more flex.

 

The whole kit would allow you to run way better brakes with after market options, 5x100 wheels, way better shock options using a bar pin eliminator kit at the stock sock mount (Ranchos suck!!), and potentially better torsion bars from sway away.

 

My estimates are at $1500 for the conversion minus fab work (Which I can do myself). So realistically $2000. I think, after I get front done with EJ hubs/axles/custom LCA's, and coilovers from Subieworks this year, calendar year 19's tax return might go to this conversion.

 

 

 

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the weakest part of the rear end is the hollow stub axles coming out of the diff.  So adapting 930 cv's won't really help that.

 

unless you use the entire rear subframe, you are stuck with the subaru torsions too.

 

95-99 leagcay and outbacks use an inner joint on the axles that will fit onto the EA81 rear shafts.....then you can use the "female" diff with the "male" innercups with solid stubs built in.

 

I mean, custom fab is awesome......I just don't see alot of benefit in going that direction.

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Possible? Sure. Anything is possible.

 

 

 

Practical? Cost effective? I doubt it.

 

Huge amount of work and money. Still have the stock stub axles and an r160 diff.

 

Those parts have no effect on the torsion bars.

 

You can already run any shock  you can dream of on an EA81. I have Rough Country's on my Brat (Rancho's would have cost more than the Brat....had to go cheap).

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The rear R160 can be changed out. WRX diffs for example are cheap, as is any Subaru XXX that uses a R160.

 

Torsion bars can be made by swayaway, and in fact Ill be getting some soon.

 

The stub axles in the hub for a VW are completely different than an EA81 and way stronger. Also, they can still be purchased new, in all sorts of different strength configurations. There are VW's literally putting down 400-500 HP with the set up I posted above. I don't think stub axles are an issue for them.

 

For a long(er) travel suspension that will nearly be indestructible and resemble the stock set up, other than cost, I don't see a down side. It achieves 10x more than anything else, and maintains an extensive aftermarket.  

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By stub axles, I mean in the diff. AFAIK, those flanges are designed to slip over the stock stub axles, and then the porsche CVs bolt to that.

 

 

Knock yourself out. But my Brat has quite a bit of rear suspension travel, with just a reclock and longer shocks. What it needs is gearing, lockers, gearing, more front travel, and gearing.

 

If I were going to spend $1500 and a bunch of labor on EA81 IRS for offroad use. It'd be for a better diff with a locker, probably Ford 9". I'd try to leave the suspension and brakes alone.

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As someone who has two first gen subarus, (one running an EA82 rear) parked in my shop, right next to a vw kit car, a plethora of parts and an empty VW pan, I can say with assurances, The vw is physically capable of more travel with less fab work, and easier to find/cheaper to find parts.

If the OP has a bunch of VW and subaru parts floating around, that price tag is a lot less, especially if you want a small lift, just install the whole shebang on a sq tube frame under the car.

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I've had both in my time (VW's & Subies) and I can tell you the track width is different, axle lengths different and mounting is different. Adapting the trailing arms from VW to Soob would be a massive undertaking requiring a lot of fabbing that would introduce all kinds of new failure points. Torsion bars are splined differently. The axles would most likely end up having to be custom made due to the length differences. Trailing arms would have to be modded for length. You can't just redrill axle cups at the diff to accept a different pattern as the structural integrity would be sorely compromised. If you use an adapter, you are further changing the length of the axle, flex angles and adding another failure point with extra bolts. Yeah, you can fab up the whole VW rear assembly to mount under there, but you're still going to deal with axle issues and the crappy rear diff the Soob has. That stub will fail way before the axle or anything else back there.

 

Like G said, there's plenty of travel to be had with the stock Soob setup by just re-clocking and a couple other tweaks plus the female diff from the Lego. The WRX brakes can be adapted to the Brat in the rear. It's been done. I get where you're coming from, but you're barking up the wrong tree. The problem on the rear is not the CVs, the working angle or the travel, it's the stub shaft in the diff. The cost of converting to the Lego diff, hybridding the rear axles, re-clocking and the fab work to install the WRX brakes will be far less than the (conservative) estimate of $2k you gave and the fabbing work I believe would be less than half. Yeah, It could be done, but going the Soob route will net you the same results you're trying to get including different wheel patterns and aftermarket brake upgrades. It's a viable idea by itself, but when compared to going the Soob route, it doesn't make financial and invested time sense unless you have the money to drop in a 500hp power plant at which point, yes, the axles will be the weak link if you changed the diff.

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