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What can i do to fix my 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS?


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I'm in Houston,TX where all the flooding is happened and well my apartment and and car got flooded...

 

The complex is helping us with the getting into another place,but my car is screwed....

 

Because with all the stuff going on,and some stuff that happened before hand, i had not noticed that my car insurance had lapsed...

 

 

It was stupid to let it happen but what's done is done...

 

Now i need to look into trying to see if i can fix it.

 

 

 

I parked it on the highest ground i could,but it still wasn't enough...

 

The water got half way up the speakers on the door...

when i checked the car, i out of habit had hit the door lock button and nothing happened.

 

but i had not disconnected the battery...

 

 

How screwed is my car?

 

Is there any chance i can fix it??

 

Because i also really loved this car...

 

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Sorry to hear about your troubles.  Flooded cars are an electrical nightmare and sadly are not worth fixing.  Sadly some unscrupulous people wash flooded car titles and sell them to unsuspecting people that have continuous problems afterwards.

 

Apparently I don't know what I am talking about so just disregard what I said

Edited by Mike104
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Sorry to hear about your troubles.  Flooded cars are an electrical nightmare and sadly are not worth fixing.  Sadly some unscrupulous people wash flooded car titles and sell them to unsuspecting people that have continuous problems afterwards.

i don't mind electric problems as long as i can drive it until i can afford replace it,because money is kinda tight right now.

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Electrical problems on modern cars is more than just an inconvenience of power accessories not working, they won't run either. Best thing you can do is get the seats and carpet out, and try to dry everything as fast as possible.

 

Spray WD-40 into all electrical connections and components that got wet. Then let that drip out for a day or so and see what happens, you got nothing to lose. 

 

Sorry for your misfortune. Keep us updated, and we'll try and help out with any advice you need.

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05 is pre-CANBUS so there's a chance you could dry out the electrical connections, replace the engine computer, and get it to run. Engine computer is under the passenger carpet so it's certainly toast. The rest of the electrical might be salvageable if you get to it fast enough and dry it out. Rip out the seats and all the carpeting and steam clean them then let it dry in the sun. Get to every connection under the carpet and dry them with WD40. Replace ECU. After that it should run.

 

Well - I could save it anyway. Easily in fact. But it's up to you to decide if this is with your time.

 

GD

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listen to this:

 

05 is pre-CANBUS so there's a chance you could dry out the electrical connections, replace the engine computer, and get it to run. Engine computer is under the passenger carpet so it's certainly toast. The rest of the electrical might be salvageable if you get to it fast enough and dry it out. Rip out the seats and all the carpeting and steam clean them then let it dry in the sun. Get to every connection under the carpet and dry them with WD40. Replace ECU. After that it should run.

Well - I could save it anyway. Easily in fact. But it's up to you to decide if this is with your time.

GD

 

+1 it's fixable...but it's going to take some initiative, amazon priming "magic flood remover" to your doorstep is not going to work.

 

Get it some dry circulating air as quickly and as soon as possible. 

Get everything you can out of the vehicle and get it opened up and airing out as soon as possible.

 

Put fans inside the car to move air on low humidity days. 

 

Ideally you have it in a small garage with a dehumidifier running - not sure you can run a dehumidifier inside a vehicle, might get too hot.

 

Ideally you pull the seats and at least pull up most of the carpet around the edges to get airflow under it. 

The seats are actually easy to pull - just a couple bolts and electrical connectors. 

 

Check all your fuses in the engine bay and cabin fuse panel - take note which ones blew, if any, before replacing them.  Write it down.

 

ECU is under the passengers front footwell carpet area.  pull the carpet back and there's the ECU.

If it's fried they're a dime a dozen www.car-part.com

 

That's the starting point and it's not much work and essentially free. 

 

Once you get it running:

Check rear diff for water - or just drain and refill. 

Front diff shouldn't have any water in it, but given the complexity and cost of repairing those verses ease of changing fluid I'd change it as well. 

Same with ATF.

 

You're going to hear gobs of comments about how atrocious flooded cars are and usually from people that have never owned/bought/repaired totaled/damaged vehicles with their own two hands.  Don't let that deter you, it's just foreign territory for most people. And from what you've described and how little cost there is in trying - yours certainly sounds worth a shot.  

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years ago i wrecked my wife's '92 4runner. the body and frame were twisted up a bit enough that the windshield was broken and a pillars were out of alignment. needless to say, it was january and raining. water all in the passenger side kickpanel where much of the chassis electricals are and the ecu and fuel pump relay reside. ecu was toast, but i did save everything else. there is an electronic component spray you can get that will dry/clean things without leaving a petro distillate residue (wd-40). just an option. it's what i got when this happened. just don't recall what it's called. pretty sure o'reilly is where i got it, though

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listen to this:

 

 

+1 it's fixable...but it's going to take some initiative, amazon priming "magic flood remover" to your doorstep is not going to work.

 

Get it some dry circulating air as quickly and as soon as possible. 

Get everything you can out of the vehicle and get it opened up and airing out as soon as possible.

 

Put fans inside the car to move air on low humidity days. 

 

Ideally you have it in a small garage with a dehumidifier running - not sure you can run a dehumidifier inside a vehicle, might get too hot.

 

Ideally you pull the seats and at least pull up most of the carpet around the edges to get airflow under it. 

The seats are actually easy to pull - just a couple bolts and electrical connectors. 

 

Check all your fuses in the engine bay and cabin fuse panel - take note which ones blew, if any, before replacing them.  Write it down.

 

ECU is under the passengers front footwell carpet area.  pull the carpet back and there's the ECU.

If it's fried they're a dime a dozen www.car-part.com

 

That's the starting point and it's not much work and essentially free. 

 

Once you get it running:

Check rear diff for water - or just drain and refill. 

Front diff shouldn't have any water in it, but given the complexity and cost of repairing those verses ease of changing fluid I'd change it as well. 

Same with ATF.

 

You're going to hear gobs of comments about how atrocious flooded cars are and usually from people that have never owned/bought/repaired totaled/damaged vehicles with their own two hands.  Don't let that deter you, it's just foreign territory for most people. And from what you've described and how little cost there is in trying - yours certainly sounds worth a shot.  

Ok i got to get a better look at it today.

 

i checked the oil and air box for signs of water,because that is all i can do till i am able to push it elsewhere,which i have to wait till my apartments put us in a different unit.

 

There was no signs of water in the oil or airbox.

 

Is that a good sign?

 

What are the chances that no water got in the tranny?

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