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manual vs auto outback? '11-'14 - pros/cons


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Greetings;

 

I am in the market for a new 'used' Subaru Outback.  Looking at '11 - '14 (based on price).  I really prefer manual transmission vehicles (just like to drive them - used to get better mpg).  But manual outbacks are certainly harder to find and seem to be a bit (quite a bit) more $$. 

 

What would I gain/lose going to an automatic?  (besides a lower price!).  Have been reading that the newer ('13 >) CVT is better/comparable to manual? and the pre '13 cvt was basically 'crap'.   I would probably stick w/ the 2.5l engine - not the 3.6

 

Also - I will be towing a small/tiny (yet to buy) camper from time to time. 

 

I drive my cars to well past 200k/into the ground, if that matters.  Currently driving an '01 w/ only 215k, but I didn't really take care of it and it needs more work than I want to deal with (and I'm tired of it - having driven it for 12 years). .

 

thanks for your help

 

Kelly

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Well, the Outback's are only available in 6-speed which is typically a "stronger" transmission over the 5-speeds.

 

I haven't heard of any issues with subarus CVT transmissions, besides the few legacy's with a torque converter issue. Which has nothing to do with the CVT.

 

People will say all day that CVT's are inferior to tradition automatics and manual transmissions. But CVT when done right, provide better fuel economy and in theory lower emissions and better performance. As the RPMs can sit where ever the engines most efficient/develops the most torque etc.

 

Manual Outbacks where a very small portion of outbacks made, so it's going to be a little more "rare" to find and have one. I believe they're the only Subaru besides the WRX/STI's that have the 6-speed manuals. So I'm not sure if the maintenance cost is higher due to that.

 

My girlfriend has a 2013 Outback manual and she likes it. The transmission is solid and shifts fine @100k (though it does need a clutch very soon. Which I believe is from the previous owner not treating the clutch well)
And her parents have a 2011 Outback CVT which also runs great @ 100k with no issues. 

Both cars above have different generation engines, but are similar in fuel economy. (EJ253 verse FB25)

 

The 2013 get's ~25 mpg when driven around town (no long highway driving) 

And the 2011 gets I believe around 24.

But again, the 2013 has the new [2.5] engine which is supposed to get better fuel economy.

 

Also. Some people say they have issues towing with a CVT and that they don't last when used to tow(the CVT transmissions that is) I can't personally give any details on towing with/without CVT. But If you're towing a "small/tiny camper" I doubt the CVT would even notice in the long run.

 

Test drive them both (if you can find a manual) and see what you think personally. 

I would get a CVT, but that's my opinion.

 

Get whichever can you decide is the right fit for you

Edited by golucky66
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Thanks so much for your reply golucky66  really appreciate your comments. 

 

I'm in CO - and have seen a few manuals in the past couple months - just kinda poking around.  There are far more automatics - obviously.  I was contemplating making the switch just to have more vehicles to choose from.  But I'd much rather drive a stick  . .  

 

thanks for your time

 

Kelly

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I'll make improper automotive enthusiast comments

 

manuals have distinctly one quantitative advantage - can pop the clutch when the battery is dead.

 

Otherwise it's largely personal preference and manuals still exist for that rugged cool feel of moving a 4" wow stick in a *two* dimensional space instead of just one like an automatic (since they too can be shifted). LOL Amazing wow #epiclife

 

IMO Autos have more benefits than negatives and can offer conveniences for towing and clutch work input shaft bearings and synchros be gone. To me autos seem best at 250,000 miles on fluid changes only.

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manuals have distinctly one quantitative advantage - can pop the clutch when the battery is dead.

 

Interesting this!!  I tow a 2000 OBW with a manual behind my motorhome.  Going down to the Eclipse last month the towed braking system drained the battery.  I thought no problem because it was hooked up to the coach.  My friend jumped in the Subaru, made sure the key was on and I drove forward.  He popped the clutch and the engine was turning over for about 1/4 mile.  It did not start!  Tried it again making sure the key was in the correct position and still no start.  Finally I charged the battery some with my solar charger and the starter turned and the engine started right up.  Who would have thunk?

 

 

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