So my 2000 forester seams to be possessed,... for starters it doesn't seem to matter where i place the shifter,... i.e. 1-2-3-D it will still shift all the way to 4th gear at regular RPMS as if it was in Drive. Second when it goes to downshift up a hill or passing it falls out of gear,..revs up past 4 grand then slams right back into the gear it came from, and lastly the torque converter is not locking up at all.. This thing has me perplexed,.. I'm a pretty good wrench but I'm not auto trans wiz. any suggestions are appreciated.
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2000 Forester 4EAT Woes
Posted 05 September 2017 - 10:43 PM
any chance the wrong fluid was drained or refilled?
have you checked the trans fluid level? It's the only fluid you check while idling - otherwise it shows too full.
any warning lights on or blinking?
Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 05 September 2017 - 10:45 PM.
Posted 05 September 2017 - 10:59 PM
i purchased the car with a blown axle, and the alarm system stuck immobilize, Replaced the axle, bypassed the alarm system. Trans fluid was low when i got it running, and i have topped it off with fresh, checked while warm while idling. Car has a clean title, and i ran the vin after purchase, it came with records including a full trans service from Meineke within the last 20k miles. No warning lights or codes at this time.
Posted 05 September 2017 - 11:21 PM
maybe try some fresh fluid - 3 drain/fill cycles get sabout 85% new fluid - on the last fill, try a bottle of Trans-X. Folks report it helping with delayed engagement but, your car's symptoms seem quite severe. Have you tried a batt. neg terminal disconnect to reset the TCU?
stuck immobilizer makes me wonder if a reversed-wire jump or something fried the TCU? Or did meineke screw something up?
Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 05 September 2017 - 11:22 PM.
Posted 05 September 2017 - 11:25 PM
Posted 06 September 2017 - 07:11 AM
oh! make sure the green and the black 'diagnostic' connectors haven't been connected - though I'm guessing you'd have fans and relays cycling on-off.
really, I am out of my element, just throwing out some guesses, hope an experienced guru responds here.
Posted 06 September 2017 - 11:49 AM
ill check on the that TCU location when i get home, as far as the Diag. connectors those are not plugged in, like i said above i'm a pretty good wrench but auto transmissions are not my forte' but for some reason this appears to be something common that's making the transmission behave like a neanderthal, and TCU is a good suspect. However the fluid change is in its future i'm sure
Posted 06 September 2017 - 09:34 PM
If you can slide under there, check the trans mount & shifter assy / bushings, might be loose. Have a friend inside so they can move the shifter and help you locate things.
Posted 19 September 2017 - 09:16 PM
Update! i climbed under the car to examine the inhibitor switch as its called (its acutely a combination PRND321 position switch) upon removal of the switch i bench tested it as per the FSM and found it to be faulty, this would also explain why it will not start unless i hot wire it. Will have a new switch in hand tomorrow and will update with results.
Posted 20 September 2017 - 12:21 PM
We used to call that the PRNDL switch back in the old 2-speed automatic times... I saw one of them powerglides where the case was made out of cast iron, HOLY COW I always wondered how heavy those were!
Posted 20 September 2017 - 08:27 PM
Ok! Good News the Inhibitor Switch took care off many of the issues, i can now start the car with the key, the back up lights now work, the torque converter locks up at proper intervals and i can manual shift the car as it now is aware of what gear its in. However it still downshifts like a mad teenager in a honda trying to pass a bus, as in it comes out of gear revs up to about 4 grand then falls into the desired lower gear violently. could that possible be the line pressure resistor located on the passengers strut tower? slowly getting closer to making this thing road worthy
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