I have been using the Walmart Supertech regular motor oil at around two and a half bucks, is this a decent oil? Also last oil change I added the Lucas stop leak product. https://www.google.c...iw=1280&bih=711
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Posted 08 September 2017 - 07:42 PM
I've been using Walmart's own brand of oil for years, ever since Walmart came to town.
I've never had an oil-related problem with any of my cars.
However, I do frequent oil & filter changes; at least as frequently as recommended, and usually more frequently than that.
Just make sure that it has the API 'sunburst' logo, and is the correct viscosity.
Posted 09 September 2017 - 09:33 AM
It doesn't matter. This is like asking if driving 74 mph on the interstate is safer than driving 76mph or if wearing a helmet in an elevator reduces your chances of injury. it's about that worthless of a discussion.
Yeah make sure it's properly API rated - but Wal Mart wouldn't sell it as such and i've never seen oil not properly rated - you'd have to be intentionallydoing somethign weird to find an oil that isn't meeting those standards.
You'd get more "protection" by adding additional oil. If it calls for 5 quarts - add 5.25 to protect against oil loss (i know, i know old subaru's never ever in a billion year leak oil). Granted - here again this recommendation is sort of silly - but that's just my point - it would offer more quantitatively robust protection than oil brand choices - but it's silly and no one is doing that.
Technically you should be doing a UOA and then there's no wondering or guess work. They tell you the actual physical properties of your oil and give recommendations on it. But...again (yawn) - it's such a pointless discussion and decision no one is doing that because it's overkill.
Take that helmet with you to the next elevator or escalator ride.
Posted 09 September 2017 - 10:44 AM
Edited by GeneralDisorder, 09 September 2017 - 10:53 AM.
Posted 09 September 2017 - 11:30 AM
Posted 09 September 2017 - 11:33 AM
Posted 09 September 2017 - 11:42 AM
walmart may even have a different supplier by now.
it may be fine for a lot of people who; A. are easy on their cars. or B. don't have one of those 7mm oil pump engines!
Posted 09 September 2017 - 12:34 PM
Posted 09 September 2017 - 01:13 PM
Posted 09 September 2017 - 10:52 PM
Posted 10 September 2017 - 01:09 AM
Posted 10 September 2017 - 10:51 AM
I'm not an engineer and my exposure to the EJ engines is limited to my own vehicles. That said I lean towards what is specified in my OM. All of my cars have over 200K miles so I use high mileage synthetic and OEM filters. I change my oil at 5k miles simply because it's easier for me to calculate when it's due next.
I must say there isn't a more discussed topic on most car forums that engine oil/filters.
The nice thing is we can each do our own thing and it has no impact on others. My opinion is mine and I certainly have no expectation that anyone will change their oil change habits based on what I say
The experience of others that work on these cars every day is certainly worth listening to IMO.
Edited by Mike104, 10 September 2017 - 10:52 AM.
Posted 10 September 2017 - 12:43 PM
Edited by GeneralDisorder, 10 September 2017 - 12:48 PM.
Posted 11 September 2017 - 11:46 AM
I have an '05 forester with almost 210k on it, it's been dealer dino or castrol since we've owned it starting at about 20k or so.
(or am I just assuming the dealer didn't use synth or synth blend in their $20 oil changes?)
It leaks far more out the head gaskets (replaced by dealer at 60k) than it burns!
That doesn't mean that engine doesn't have a much higher probability of burning oil if it doesn't get synthetic, of course. Could just be luck.
Doesn't mean it's true in this case, but those SOBs have products on the shelf labeled exactly the same as sold elsewhere, but it will be a special blend/model/construction etc just for wal-mart, so wal-marts required price can be met.
Sometimes it literally isn't the same product when it's cheaper at wal-mart.
Posted 11 September 2017 - 11:59 AM
Posted 11 September 2017 - 02:19 PM
Are H6's less susceptible to this?
It's clear that dino oil does not cause every engine to fail. I have 280k (H6 2002) and I'm by no means an exception.
I don't believe in luck - there are quantitative physical reasons things happen on this kind of scale.
Individual cases are hard to assess as they are frequently caused by prior overheating, low oil, infrequent changes, abuse, derived from past failures, etc.
i defer to GD's experience, not trying to change anyone's mind, and am taking notes. i'm just mining for factual representation of failure modes and causation and this is about the only forum on earth where this can even be attempted to discuss this logically! LOL
And I don't believe in luck, so the question remains: why?
Posted 11 September 2017 - 06:56 PM
I can't attest to Walmart oil in a Subaru, but I used in in my 2002 Saturn from new till I sold it two years ago with 275k miles on it. Still ran like new. I did on occasion use a different brand if I found something cheaper on sale, i.e. I got a case of Pennzoil for $12 once and two cases of Shell oil for $.50/qt on clearance. Change when ever the oil life monitor light came on, about every 5500 miles.
Posted 11 September 2017 - 09:07 PM
Posted 12 September 2017 - 06:50 AM
It has a lot to do with how it's driven, and how often you let the oil go past it's useful life. With cars that are religiously maintained, you will be much more likely to not exceed the life of dino oil
Then there's the people that have some kind of cooling system malfunction
I'm not seeing the drawbacks here?
Edited by idosubaru, 12 September 2017 - 06:50 AM.
Posted 12 September 2017 - 01:41 PM
The leaks from the head gaskets don't actually amount to much. They look bad, but if you are topping off the oil, then 99% of what you are adding is going out the exhaust.
The leaks off the head gaskets are enough to create a blue cloud off the exhaust at a red light, it's pretty considerable.
Bottom of the engine and cradle are soaked!
Valve covers seem pretty tight, could be the oil filter o-ring under the cooler adding to it though. Both sides about the same.
No other signs of burning oil, no crud on plugs, no pinging, etc.
But as I said, the dealer oil for the first 175k miles could have been semi-synth.
Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:58 PM
Posted 13 September 2017 - 11:35 AM
All I can say is other than needing a quart in between my at-5000-mile changes at 207,000 miles with a pretty oil-wet engine it doesn't have any other oil burning symptoms, the plugs were in there a bit too long and other than electrode wear they were in great shape- no crap on them from burning oil.
That's not to say it's not burning any oil, just that I'm adding about as much as I had to add to my 2003 H6 with its similar magnitude leaks.
I think my epoxy patches on the oil pan are starting to leak again too.
Posted 16 September 2017 - 09:09 PM
I bought a 5 quart container of full synthetic Valvoline 5w 30 (another car, not a Subaru) and it was $25 for the jug at Walmart. Has all the modern ratings. Car actually needs 6 quarts, so bought a 1qt for $7. So $32 for enough oil for a V8. That's a bargain and giant piece of mind knowing it has good oil running through it.
FWIW, there was an exposé years ago about motor oil that was ending up in I think Dollar General stores or something similar (conventional oil at very cheap prices), and it's was actually meant for either farm vehicles or cars from 40 years ago and it had NON of the modern ratings of approval seals or whatever nor were there warnings NOT to run it in modern engines. And I believe people were using it in newer cars and it was killing their engines.
Even if you are on a budget, there's no reason not to run the full synthetic oils. @3k miles, conventional oil will almost always be black. Synthetic? Most likely will still be caramel until 4-5k unless you red line the thing constantly and are doing stop sign drags at every chance.
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