Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Power door locks keep blowing the fuse. 92 Loyale


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 cnc

cnc

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 105 posts
  • Seattle

Posted 20 September 2017 - 11:05 PM

I keep blowing the 25 amp fuse that runs the door locks. They work for a day or two and then quit. I fixed the driver door switch that sends the lock/unlock signals to the other doors and that works fine. I suspect the problem might be in the wires that span the gap between the driver door and the body, since those flex all the time. One of them may have shorted to ground. Any other ideas out there?  That fuse also runs something else. Can't remember what, though. I can make a current measurement.

cnc



#2 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 595 posts
  • US

Posted 21 September 2017 - 12:54 AM

Probably the wires grounding out somewhere.  If you can access them cover them with some split corrugated tubing to keep then out of contact with the body/frame.



#3 skishop69

skishop69

    If it ain't broke, you're not trying.

  • Members
  • 1,483 posts
  • Puyallup

Posted 21 September 2017 - 09:32 AM

Is it blowing when you're using the door locks? If so, you could have a bad actuator. Unplug them one at a time for a few days each to see which one. If not, what Dee said. Most likely in the door, or the pass thru as you mentioned.



#4 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,486 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:06 AM

should be a 20 amp not a 25

 

and according to FSM door lock is only thing on that circuit



#5 cnc

cnc

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 105 posts
  • Seattle

Posted 23 September 2017 - 11:43 PM

Thanks for the tips, guys. All seems to work perfectly until at some point, none of them work. I don't know when it's going bad. I do have a clamp-on DC ammeter, so I could conceivably test each one individually, to see where the big current draw is. Even simpler but not conclusive would be to just substitute an ammeter where the fuse goes and read it as I hit the lock switch. If I find that the total current is anywhere near the 20 or 25 amp fuse rating, then it's just a matter of time before it cooks off the fuse, anyway.

 

I'll report back. Stay tuned.

cnc



#6 cnc

cnc

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 105 posts
  • Seattle

Posted 24 September 2017 - 12:39 AM

Question: Are all of the door lock actuators the same? In looking at some info, it appears that they all use little DC motors to run a leadscrew or similar. They will burn out if left engaged for any period of time. The most likely scenario is that one or more just finally bit the dust.

cnc



#7 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,486 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 24 September 2017 - 10:25 AM

IIRC both front and rear pass side are the same

 

Drivers side rear door is a mirror image of the others

 

Front drivers is different.  Not an actuator, it is actually the switch that activates the other 3



#8 skishop69

skishop69

    If it ain't broke, you're not trying.

  • Members
  • 1,483 posts
  • Puyallup

Posted 24 September 2017 - 02:59 PM

I would not use an inline ammeter unless you have one capable of measuring 25 amps. Unless specifically rated for high amperage, most meters on the market are rated at 10 amps. Use your clamp on at each actuator like you said above and if one of them is drawing significantly higher then the others, then you've most likely found your culprit.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users