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Steering knuckle replace 96 Legacy


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24 replies to this topic

#1 milty60

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 06:08 PM

I will be replacing the front passenger side steering knuckle on my son's 96 Subaru Legacy as soon as I can procure the knuckle. I checked RockAuto they don't sell it. Any other online sites for the knuckle? Thinking I'll probably try to get one from the bone yard. Looking for advice on replacement - I plan on renting tool to pull tie rod end,  ball joint - possible tool to pull rotor off of hub - its stuck at the moment - do I need any other rental tools? I've done an axle so I know what I need for it. Also did the struts so I 'm good there too. The brakes too so I'm comfortable. Any advice will be appreciated.

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty 



#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 07:01 PM

What's wrong with the knuckle? You can press in a new bearing.

The knuckle is not available in the aftermarket. It's Subaru only, quite expensive, and does not come with bearing.

Junk yard is usually a crapshoot for bearing quality.

Take the knuckle off and have a local Subaru shop install a bearing for you.

GD

#3 milty60

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:59 AM

I need to replace the ball joint. The bolt head was broken off - I attempted to dill it out but didn't center the drill bit so it walked a bit - the hole is to close to the top edge of the knuckle for my comfort and is not aligned to hold in the ball joint - so I need to replace the knuckle

 

Milty 



#4 milty60

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 09:00 AM

Besides RockAuto what other reasonable priced parts sites may have the knuckle? 

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty



#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 10:52 AM

AFAIK, they are not available outside of Subaru.

GD

#6 Mike104

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 11:18 AM

Only source for new is Subaru.  Try ebay for used.



#7 milty60

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 06:55 PM

Ok, still checking bone yards. Appreciate the info.

 

...Milty 



#8 Mike104

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:04 PM

You could try these guys:

 

https://www.mttechsu...d-subaru-parts/

 

Not cheap but good parts.  Stored indoors instead of lying around in a field getting wet and rusty.  I bought one before I learned how to change the bearings myself and it was perfect.

 

Other option is to get a used one from a yard and replace the bearing.

 

Also try car-part.com for used parts near you.


Edited by Mike104, 24 September 2017 - 08:06 PM.


#9 idosubaru

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 01:59 PM

www.car-part.com buy one from the south or west with no rust



#10 Mike104

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 02:11 PM

Too bad it's the passenger side.  I have a drivers side with new ball joint, hub and bearing installed.



#11 milty60

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:41 PM

I picked up a steering knuckle today (bone yard) rotor hub bearing ABS sensor all in place - will dismantle this weekend - and swap my parts onto the knuckle.

 

A few things I need advice on:: 

 

1. What size bolts do I use to remove rotor from hub?

 

2. I think the hub is bolted to the knuckle? Do I still need some type of puller to get it off once bolts are removed?

 

3. If I swap out the bearing does it get pressed out and pressed back into the hub?  

 

4. I will rent a fork to get the ball joint and tie rod off 

 

Any other steps I am missing - tools? Pullers? etc? 

 

I appreciate advice 

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty



#12 Gloyale

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 07:15 PM

1. What size bolts do I use to remove rotor from hub?

 

2. I think the hub is bolted to the knuckle? Do I still need some type of puller to get it off once bolts are removed?

 

3. If I swap out the bearing does it get pressed out and pressed back into the hub?  

 

4. I will rent a fork to get the ball joint and tie rod off 

 

Any other steps I am missing - tools? Pullers? etc? 

 

I appreciate advice 

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty

 

 

m8 x 1.25 for removing rotor, one caliper and bracket are removed.

 

As for question 2 and 3.  

 

Bearing is pressed into knuckle.

 

Hub is pressed into bearing.

 

You may want to consider taking the whole assembly and new bearing into a shop.

 

 

otherwise things you will need and need to know how to use.

 

1. Bearing Packer and grease gun- the grease in the new ones is packing grease.  Must repack with disc brake wheel bearing grease of good quality

 

2. Hub puller, slide hammer type.  For removing hub from bearing.  

 

3. Bearing race driver for use in removing outer race, and installing new one in conjunction with a hub press/puller/ bearing splitter set

 

4.  Hub puller/bearing splitter set

 

 

Must haves to do the job on car with out cavemaning it with hammers.......which doesn't work well for EJ stuff

 

Otherwise take it to a shop with press and appropriate arbors



#13 milty60

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 08:36 PM

Appreciate the advice and info - I may attempt to break it down tomorrow to get a close look at what needs to be done and what shape the various parts are in and start hunting around for a shop if I can't rent the tools/pullers and do it myself. 

 

....Milty 



#14 idosubaru

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 08:36 AM

i can't imagine doing them without a press or hub tamer.  i use a hub tamer and air tools.  even the hub tamer with hand tools would be a nice work out. 

 

something like this I think would get it done:

https://www.harborfr...ters-63260.html

 

Grease the threads REALLY well.  air or electric impact make this much smoother than trying to wrench and keep things still with the force required for this job. 



#15 Mike104

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 09:28 AM

I picked up a steering knuckle today (bone yard) rotor hub bearing ABS sensor all in place - will dismantle this weekend - and swap my parts onto the knuckle.

 

A few things I need advice on:: 

 

1. What size bolts do I use to remove rotor from hub?

 

2. I think the hub is bolted to the knuckle? Do I still need some type of puller to get it off once bolts are removed?

 

3. If I swap out the bearing does it get pressed out and pressed back into the hub?  

 

4. I will rent a fork to get the ball joint and tie rod off 

 

Any other steps I am missing - tools? Pullers? etc? 

 

I appreciate advice 

 

Thanks, 

 

Milty

 

The caliper bracket bolts are 17MM Strut bolts are 19mm.  The rotor is not attached to the hub except for being sandwiched between the wheel and hub.  You may need two M8 x 1.25 bolts to extract the rotor from the hub.  The axle nut is 32MM or maybe 31MM.  You can generally rent a set of axle nut sockets from most auto parts stores.

 

If you are going to change the bearing you will need either a hydraulic press (20T preferred) or a set of FWD bearing tools.  Some shops will replace the bearing for you if you bring the knuckle and parts in with you.

 

Here are a couple of videos to give you and idea of what is involved:

 

http://<div style="p...</iframe></div>

 

 

http://<div style="p...</iframe></div>

 

This post uses the hydraulic press method

 

https://forums.nasio...ad.php?t=787070

 

I've done a bunch of these using the HF FWD kit and the hydraulic press method.


Edited by Mike104, 28 September 2017 - 01:20 PM.


#16 milty60

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 11:47 AM

Appreciate all the info

 

...Milty



#17 msmithmmx

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 08:16 AM

Enjoy.
http://www.ultimates...d/?fromsearch=1

#18 lmdew

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 10:47 AM

Got a good one,  PM'd you.

Larry



#19 milty60

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 12:22 PM

Update --- I manged to shear the bolt head off the junk yard ball joint knuckle mounting bolt. Was going to drill it out and put a bolt straight through it.... but I tried drilling the same sheared off bolt on the car from both ends of the bolt after using a punch to create a center starting dimple but the drill walked off center and misaligned/mangled the hole. So, my confidence level drilling the junkyard bolt out is not very high. . I've called a machine shop to get a quote on drilling out the bolt - can't imagine it would take very long or be costly. I'll find out Monday.  

 

If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.

 

....Milty 



#20 Fairtax4me

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 01:02 PM

I would have just drilled the bolt out of the original. Doesn't have to be exact as long as you can drill all the way through the threaded section and get all the chunks of the old bolt out. Drill from the thread side just to the split in the knuckle and once the threads are drilled through the rest can usually be knocked out with a punch. Then drill the hole wider if necessary to fit a 3/8 bolt through. Use grade 8 for highest strength and best rust resistance.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 30 September 2017 - 01:03 PM.


#21 milty60

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 01:10 PM

I do agree but the drill walked so far on the threaded end of the hole that the knuckle mounting hole was breaking through the top. Also was concerned the cut out on the side of the ball joint would not line up or hold in place tight since I destroyed the hole.

 

...Milty



#22 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 02:11 PM

If you heat them with a torch you can get those bolts out 90% of the time. The threads don't seize it's the open shaft above the threads.

That said, I've drilled many of them out. But it's a skill and if you haven't done it many times you should probably avoid it on a critical vehicle you need back on the road. Learn on something else.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 30 September 2017 - 02:11 PM.


#23 milty60

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 08:05 AM

I total agree - I should of tried heat before I put a breaker bar on it and snapped the head off - been DIYing cars my hole life but never had the need to drill out a bolt in a critical area - and I do need my son's car back on the road safely.

 

 

....Milty



#24 milty60

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 11:43 AM

Install completed.

 

A side finding: the ABS light has been on since my son purchased the car and ABS has never worked. The old Knuckle did not have a tone wheel. The bone yard one did. I don't know if the old one rusted/broke/fell off or was removed by the previous owner. I also checked other front knuckle and it does not have a tone wheel. I have not had a chance to check back wheels yet. Looks like a bit of work to put a tone wheel in - remove knuckle -  pull hub - possibly replace bearing and repress. Any thoughts? 

 

Even though ABS does not work - I have replaced all rotors/drums and brake pads/shoes, caliper piston moves easily (old calipers), no fluid leaks, master cylinder appears new - clean fluid. Pedal does not feel spongy (I have not bleed brakes to date) but it takes quite a bit of pressure on the pedal to stop the car and it certainly does not stop on a dime. Any thoughts? 

 

 

...Milty



#25 Mike104

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 12:20 PM

No tone rings means no ABS which is why the light is on






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