Outbackpacker Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Hi everybody, This is Outbackpacker with a question. What is likely causing the front end to pulse? Its sometimes bad enough to make me sing falsetto up to 30mph. The shifter doesn't shake back and forth, only vibrates. Steering pulls straight line and fairly smooth steering wheel. I can feel it in the corner where I replaced the axle. For most of a year I've had a front CV joint that was going bad. Since I've not been taking long trips lately, I followed instructions of a fellow Subi fan at a local NAPA store. Instead of replacing my OEM with 226K miles good axle with their made in China new remanufactured, I cleaned out the outter joint and repacked with grease and replaced the boot. Worked good until recently when the noise increased. Pulled the axle and since concerned the play would cause tire and other part wear, I swapped it for a chinese knock off from napa. The sound and noise improved, but still have the same passenger front side pulse every revolution of the wheel. The ball joint is bad (play) even though boot good. It will NOT come off for anything and I mean anything I've tried with the help of youtube mechanics. But that question I'll save for another thread. I don't think that's where the noise and pulsing comes from considering that its on smooth roads. OH BTW, I just remembered that now it has the rotor scuff sound only when pulling HARD left turns. However, the normal braking pulse of a high spot on a rotor does Not happen. Otherwise that would be my first guess. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Outbackpacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Only makes noise up to 30? What does it do above 30? You had the axle out did you spin the wheel bearing to check it for noise/rough motion? How old are the tires? Did you check those for broken belts/bulging? Normally an axle that's causing a problem in the front will cause the steering wheel to wobble. A tire would do the same. Same for brakes. Vibration that shakes the whole car would be drivetrain, rear brakes, rear axle, rear wheels. Rear axles almost never go bad. More likely for a u-joint to fail. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Hi Fairtax4me, It makes noise beyond 30, but it smooths out a lot. Sometimes it has more shake than other times. About 30 and highway speeds, it vibrates, but not as much as slower speeds. I didn't think to check the bearing when it was up on stands. Thanks for reminding me and tomorrow AM first thing I'll get it in the air and check that. The tires are well over 1 year old and I've hit plenty of holes that made me say " WV state road $ hard at work"! Will pull that and check closely too. Thanks for the recommendations. Will do and get back this weekend ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Update, Got a chance to jack the car up. That made a difference. I couldn't tell with it on the ground. While holding tire at 3:00 and 9:00, also at 7:00 and 5:00, and shaking there was play on the passenger side. At the 12:00 and 6:00 No play. Tie rod felt solid when I replaced the axle previously; however the ball joint (think there's just a lower), does have up and down movement. Its a shame that I couldn't get it out. Will have to try some of the snake oil that they put in vaccines. Maybe it'll work for THAT. But that's for another thread. Lastly, I couldn't tell any noise while turning the tire/wheel. Probably because its got the 5 speed differential and doesn't spin. My guess is bad wheel bearing caused by leaving the worn cv joint on too long AND because cow pastures are often better shape and well maintained than WV roads..........That was a point I'm glad John Denver left out of our state anthem. \ Q: Should I consider anything else before spending a whole day on a big job with no press......replacing the wheel bearing. Do YOU think its the bearing, or possibly something else? Thanks Outbackpacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Sounds like wheel bearing. Buy a used knuckle and avoid the ball joint and wheel bearing conundrum. Www.car-part.com If you’re still unsure I would do the ball joint first as that’s clearly an obvious issue and that is not a part you want shearing while driving. The Subaru units are extremely robust, if one is failing that is alarming. Yes there’s just one ball joint per side on Subaru’s. Pickle fork removes joint from control arm. Removing from the knuckle can vary wildly. Not knowing your situation it’s hard to guess. Some would be easy for familiar folks but difficult for others, some are next to impossible to remove by any method you hear. There’s literally no tool that can remove every ball joint though maybe some snap on stuff could get 98% of them. rust welded joints that shatter to pieces before pulling the entire ball out of the knuckle - they shatter and then you’re left chiseling/drilling the rust layered remains of the ball joint head left behind in the knuckle which takes forever. That’s rare but an example of the wide range of difficulty possible and how limited tools can be. If you can get a good enough tool (which few have) the metal can just shear/shatter apart. Remove pinch bolt. Chisel the opening. Soak in PBBlaster or Liquid Wrench for as long and as much as you can. Then good luck and hope you don’t have a real nasty outlier. If they’re real bad I’ll stick a chisel up just flush to the knuckle and try to get some downward impact on it with a large chisel and large hammer-small sledge. Work your way around 360 degrees around the perimeter. it would be difficult to prove the axle caused the wheel bearing issue. wheel bearing failure is not rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Sounds like wheel bearing. Buy a used knuckle and avoid the ball joint and wheel bearing conundrum. That sounds like a good idea. I've already bought the new part, ball joint, though. Can't find a receipt to take it back. I'll guess that it'll be FAR easier to replace the whole knuckle than the wheel bearing, w/out a press. Am I right? Www.car-part.com If you’re still unsure I would do the ball joint first as that’s clearly an obvious issue and that is not a part you want shearing while driving. The Subaru units are extremely robust, if one is failing that is alarming. Yes there’s just one ball joint per side on Subaru’s. Pickle fork removes joint from control arm. The top came out easily. Its strange, but its the lower end w/the threads that's stuck. Tried about everything. Removing from the knuckle can vary wildly. Not knowing your situation it’s hard to guess. Just about had a blow out yesterday. The opposite rear tire is bald on ONE spot. Threads are showing and went flat. Now looking for whole new set of tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 an intermediate approach might be to take the knuckle and new parts to an auto machine shop and pay them to swap stuff into the knuckle. scribe/mark the 12 o'clock position on the camber botl and alignment will be back like it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 I appreciate that idea. I already scribed it when I used the method to drop the unit off the strut. Will consider a shop for the threaded fitting of the ball joint. Will check youtube for details on replacing the whole knuckle. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I have a used drivers side knuckle with new ball joint, bearing and hub available that should fit your car (has mounting point for ABS sensor). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Hi Mike 104, I will definitely keep you in mind. I just had a flat and found that I'll probably need a whole new set of tires. Don't have the $ to cover critical expenses right now, so will have to put this issue on hold till I get caught up. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 While holding tire at 3:00 and 9:00, also at 7:00 and 5:00, and shaking there was play on the passenger side. At the 12:00 and 6:00 No play. Ball joint or tie rod end. The bearings on these don't normally show any play unless they're totally shot, and then You'll have obvious play in every direction. If you have the knuckle off, axle out, spin the hub by hand. If it's smooth, bearing is fine. If it feels rough or sounds like it has gravel in it the bearing is bad. Getting the ball joint stud out of the control arm isn't usually that bad, but it's best to get that popped loose before removing the cup from the knuckle. Big hammer and a pickle fork usually gets them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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