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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Not new but new to posting and need help ASAP

4eat outback non turbo Trans problems Help 2nd gen outback? Love my subie Need help Emergency

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49 replies to this topic

#1 Badchad14

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:01 AM

Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever.

#2 idosubaru

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:46 PM

is the trans repairable? 

 

if the wire was "severed" - then fix the issue before junking a good transmission.  

 

www.car-part.com for cheapest transmissions around you.

 

essentially any 1995-1998 automatic transmission will work in your vehicle with these conditions: 

1.  match the final drive ratio to yours (that means you need to make sure it's from a 2.5 liter legacy, outback or 98 impreza, 98 forester)

2.  Or use any transmission and swap the rear differential to match final drive ratio

3.  Or use any transmission and run it FWD.



#3 Badchad14

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:09 PM

Well new twist. I just bought and replaced the passenger side front axle, now it hits me that that's the same time my trans which was rebuilt 94000 ago started messing up. Today tried driving again, well the rear axle disconnected fuse in for fwd, yr he front axle I just put in exploded. Bearings flew out trans would not engage. Reattached rear drive shaft drove home. New front axle now severed and in two pieces. I think wrong axle here causing wheel speed sensor to read funny and tell trans to correct. No problem with tranny just we wrong axle given to me to install. Same length did look different but insert says that ok. Now what. Fighting with parts discount place to have them see they messed up.

#4 idosubaru

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:28 PM

Aftermarket axles fail all the time, i've seen brand new axles explode multiple times - in 50 yards, 60 miles...multiple times, this is not new or different, or a mistake they made. You just bought crap axles and are currently working towards installing another junk axle which will probably be better than that but still suck like a vampire just in time for halloween.

www.car-part.com

i've bought tons for $15-$30 before, cheaper than you're getting those junk axles blowing up on you.

get a green inner cup axle - which means it's an OEM Subaru axle - and reboot it. You can try to be cheap and run the existing axles for now.
don't get any axles that are black ,grey, tan, etc - get an OEM axle which is a green inner joint.

this one looks like it has a green inner joint:
http://www.ebay.com/...Q1ZuqZw&vxp=mtr

Also get 00-04 Outback axles, they have better boots and install right into your 1996 Outback.
Just tap the outer tone ring off with a hammer. (the thing with dozens of teeth around the outer joint, it just taps right off, you don't need that on the 96).

OEM axles if rebooted last the life of the vehicle, replacing them is a terrible decision (and I'm understating that).

Edited by idosubaru, 09 October 2017 - 05:28 PM.


#5 Badchad14

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:25 PM

Since 2014 the company that sold me the axle has sold 17 of them and zero returned with defect or warranty claim. Well sooner or later one will go bad guess I am the unlucky one. Could this axle be the cause of all these symptoms I am seeing in transmission

#6 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:37 PM

aftermarket axles are notoriously poor products, a real gamble. Also, suppose the sold you an Impreza axle ?



#7 Badchad14

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:13 PM

Something isn't right About the whole thing. I am guessing it's not right for sure. The transmission worked perfectly until I replaced the axle. But why? Wheel speed sensor conflict? That why shifting became erratic? I am pretty pissed as I threw the old axle out and trash guy came.

#8 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:20 PM

www.car-part.com , might get you a used OEM axle with the green cup inner joint, for $40 or so.


Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 09 October 2017 - 10:20 PM.


#9 idosubaru

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 05:35 AM

A failed axle will certainly cause the output shafts of the transmission to just spin and confuse the computer as the open diff will just want to spin that shaft with no resistance.


Since 2014 the company that sold me the axle has sold 17 of them and zero returned with defect or warranty claim.


Right. If 1 out of 20 axles are bad - that's terrible, but you'd have 19 good axles. If a favorite gas station pumps leaked and blew gas all over clothes 1 out of 20 times someone got gas - they'd eventually get livid and say it's unacceptable getting eyes burned and smelling like gas all day. Sure - there would be 19 perfect experiences - but one out of 20 is atrocious.

That's what the aftermarket axle situation is like. It's a high percentage failure, no one is saying it's every single axle.
If anyone wanted to learn how bad this issue is - they can Google it and could never read all the "my axle failed" threads in a life time. It's well known and highly documented.

What brand axle and parts store is this?

I'm not saying it isn't possible, but information on a parts store computer is often misinterpreted.

17 isn't many axles in 3 years. I've never been a mechanic or am paid to work on a car and I might have done 17 axles in 3 years before.
how do you know that information - who, and how was it, looked it up?
were all of those Subaru axles?
were they all sold by that individual who looked up that data?

how does that person know none were ever returned?
do national chains counter employees have access to information like that?
the small mom-and-pop shops often don't get returns for a variety of reasons. Ive seen it multiple times and I'm sure I'm not alone.

how many miles were put on them? - if they supply used car lots they won't get many returns.

Edited by idosubaru, 10 October 2017 - 05:40 AM.


#10 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:49 AM

^^^ good points, in addition, some of those axles were slapped onto a car right before it was flipped to a new owner - then, if they suffer excessive vibration or a failure, the supplier will never learn about it.

it's like 'economy' brake pads and 'economy' windshield wipers, etc. Stuff that folks buy to slap on a car they're getting rid of - not the one they keep for a daily driver.

#11 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 11:23 AM

The general manager was who I spoke to and yes generally they keep track of every sales statistic. 17 isn't alot but that shows the reliability of Subaru parts and that not many break. But ok. ABS or wheel speed sensor. Could that have any bearing on the transmission and shifting and not engaging etc. ABS light comes on dash after driving a bit but has since owning the vehicle. Shouldn't a bad speed sensor throw a code if it has failed? Or is ABS light the only indicator. How can I disable the ABS temporarily to get a job and then worry about ABS.

#12 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 12:24 PM

on some cars, the ABS light will come on if the charging system/battery are having a problem. you might check voltages or have that system tested.

#13 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:21 PM

The axle I was given was not even close to the one I was given this time. Length was close when. I compared before installing. But there is movement and I didn't use a measuring device as maybe I should have. The one that broke was very thick then tapered down, and the part that OEM paints green wasn't there. Just boot then flange with no metal don't know the name of that piece length between. Just axle boot then part that slides over shaft of transaxel. Finding not much interchangeability on axles for the 96. Search on the site recommended above only shows 96 that works on 96. Other than suggestion of pounding speed sensor gear off for newer axle to work. Goin to put this clearly different axle in oh and a new front hub given to me almost free and see what happens.

#14 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:27 PM

the axles are interchageable form left to right so, they should look 'almost' the same. Some aftermarkets look a little different at the inner cup - but not much different. You can look at pics at rockauto or amazon or do a google image search.

sounds like you got some oddball axle. maybe it was mis-stocked or ????

#15 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 05:33 PM

Put the replacement in, obviously not the same axle and car works perfectly. No more trans shifting problems. Like new. But now I checked my new trans fluid, metal flake like red gold flake show car paint. How do I hold this place accountable for the damage done. Finding out this year after June 1995 prod date to end of 96 the axles are not the same and or interchangeable. Why don't these goons know that. What about the tranny damage caused by fighting mechanical and TCU ECU parts. So pissed about this. And I know Subies. I knew from the start wrong part but no way they could do that. I need them to be held accountable. How do I make that happen. Any clues?

#16 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 05:34 PM

Oh and tested all electrical and have a new battery that's not why ABS light is enlightening me. But car works perfect again with proper axle in.

#17 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 06:49 PM

Update. Got ten miles out in a test run exploded. Don't know what the axle is fine. Maybe gear oil it's pretty thick and clean and my 260000 mile engine doesn't keep oil clean. I am thinking torque convertor. That's my original thought but why the hesitation while accelerating why did I suddenly lose 3rd and 4th gear again. I don't know and have no codes showing. Had a EGR code but reset everything and nothing came back on except abs. Torque convertor failed and maybe engine output shaft snapped or something. Horrible noise now when trying to crank and won't start. I couldn't pinpoint the source of leakage but I give up. Crush the car and get a 100 dollars out of it. Anyone in Phoenix want it 100 bucks and u have it.

#18 idosubaru

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:19 PM

cracked flexplate.
Borked trans.

95 and 96 axles are interchangeable.

#19 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:20 PM

Flexplate please expand on that. And borked trans?

#20 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:32 PM

Okay. How much of this could have been caused by the parts warehouse giving me the wrong axle and me.instalking it and having none of this prior to the wrong axle now is completely undrivable. Before I changed the axle I had no trans no problems other than clicking sound. Put wrong axle in the axle exploded and was obviously incorrect now with obvious right axle installed completely blew the engine or transmission. Car won't start at all anymore and some oil I assume gear oil as it was not red but blew up when test driving after correct axle in but damage already done from wrong axle. Help I am about to scrap this car or should I pursue parts company in fixing the whole thing.

#21 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:33 PM

I have 24 hours to decide as I can't afford to tow the car home. No job right now been working on the car trying to get to better job searching.

#22 idosubaru

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:34 PM

I would move on. Ideally you fix it.

Install a used trans, $300. Craigslist, www.car-part.com

1. I doubt it’s the fault of the part or Store and I’m the odd event that it is it’s going to be nearly impassible to prove and pursue.

2. The limited and incongruent information in this thread make helping a challenge for us I say that in order to help you move on. You likely don’t know the level of Subaru specific experience on this board, you would be hard pressed to find this level of expertise anywhere. That’s why I’m here, to learn. But since the vehicle can’t be seen or touched, The more accurate your info the more they can help.

The transmission had no issues but had a broken wire?

95 and 96 axles aren’t interchangeable - where are you getting that from because it’s not true or I’m forgetting something.

You never told us the name of the store, axle brand, or part numbers to help cross Reference possible issues.

Pictures of the offending axle would help.

And then the mention of the part having play and looking wrong, I was confused there as well.

#23 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:40 PM

I will enlighten but apartment next door just went up in 60 foot flames. Had to evacuate and outside no shirt shoes etc. Trans wire issue it was to the solenoid on the underside of trans pan and had a code for torque convertor solenoid I don't remember exactly. I dropped pan changed fluid and filter repaired the wire and code went away and never had another issue until I installed the first axle the incorrect part. How do I post pics on here.

#24 Badchad14

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:44 PM

Here is one.

#25 idosubaru

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:47 PM

What did the store say when you inquired with them?

warranties explicitly prohibit damage or liability caused and only apply to the part itself. So you’re out of luck there.

You’d have to file and take them to court which I would highly recommend not doing in this case.

I would try disconnecting the TCU either at the TCU under the dash above the gas pedal or the large connector at the rear of the engine bay on the passengers side. This forces it into purely mechanical mode and uses no electronics to control the trans. Sometimes you can limp a trans around in this way. It’ll be in 3rd gear, locked in 4WD and no lock up but it’ll drive. I installed a switch to switch between FWD and “locked” 4WD and drove a ar like this for a long time in 3rd gear only.

If the flexplate cracks the engine turns but the transmission does not. Pull bellhousing access plug under throttle body and try to figure out if the flexplate is turning in synch with the engine.

Also - I’m wondering if there’s possibly an issue inside the transmission that is breaking the axles?

Maybe you should pull the front axles, lock the 4WD and see if it’ll drive in RWD if there’s a chance the front diff is hosed, I doubt this is the case but I don’t have a clear picture of what’s going on.

which part of the axle exloded and how?

How do you know it was the wrong axle?
Can you post a picture of it - that would help.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: 4eat, outback, non turbo, Trans problems, Help, 2nd gen outback?, Love my subie, Need help, Emergency

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