wagons Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 So I just finished putting my engine in my 1987 GL wagon. Mounted the Weber adapter and got it buttoned up. She fired right up, and then steam. Water was pouring out of the carb adapter front screw. Took it all apart, and sure enough the previous owner drilled too deep right into the coolant passage. Is there any way to fix this without buying another intake manifold? Somebody please help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 So I understand this correctly, there is a screw installed in the hole that the PO drilled too far and that coolant is leaking out past that screw? If that is the case, find a fiber washer to fit the screw and put it on then cover the screw threads with Ultra Gray. If the UG doesn't stop all of the coolant coming by, the fiber washer on top will. You could also try to JB Weld the hole, but that's more work and you'd have to get it in there just right to do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 Yeah water is pouring out the screw. It's the front passenger side carb mounting screw/bolt. They tried to repair a thread and cut way too deep in, right into the coolant passage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 What you want is Loctite 545 thread sealant. Once that cures it's not going to leak. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Thanks GD I was hoping you'd Chime in. I will try that today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Ok so now more problems i need a definite answer on. The prior owner had the intake manifold welded. Turns out the weld failed! So how do I block off this coolant passage? Can I weld fill it all the way into the bottom of the hole, or does coolant absolutely have to travel trough the intake manifold? The owner had a piece of aluminum plug made and tried welding it, allowing water to flow under it and it did not work!. Please tell me I can just completely fill this hole with aluminum welding. I had it started and running great until again white coolant smoke. Fml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) If we're talking the main coolant passage from head to head you must have it as it's an integral part of the cooling system. If we're talking the carb warmer at the front of the carb base, just fill it in with JB. I doubt you'll have any freeze up issues in Prescott. lol Edited November 3, 2017 by skishop69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 The hole is like 3/4 inches by 1/2 inch. Maybe I'll thread it and put a plug then jb weld over the plug so water can still pass underneath it? The hole is for the carb heater but it is massive! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 It's hard to offer advice on this type of problem without some clear photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 The small hole at the top of the intake manifold is larger than ones I've seen at the salvage yard. The prior owner dremeled down the water pipe so there is nothing for jb weld to catch on. I'm wondering how to fill that small hole. I have been told to buy an aluminum bar stock and press it in then jb weld, but if that comes loose then it can f up the cooling system and/or ruin a head. Any suggestions that work I will try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Ok, without seeing it firsthand, it's hard to envision what damage was done. Here's another idea since you say there's nothing for the JB to grab on to. JB makes another product called SteelStick. It's a two part epoxy putty that comes in a hard plastic tube and it doesn't ooze like the Weld product does. I've used it on a number of fabrication projects and some weird repairs. Cut off a piece bigger than you need and squish it together per the instructions then pack it into the hole filling the whole thing. You need to move fairly quickly as it has a short work time. Use a screwdriver, metal rod or equivalent to push it down in the hole and seal any areas you see as trouble, filling the hole completely making sure you pack it good and leave a little over the top so you can file it smooth after it cures. It will cure in one piece so you don't have to worry about something coming loose and getting into the cooling system. Short of welding or replacing the manifold, it's the only option I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 4, 2017 Author Share Posted November 4, 2017 I have a picture posted above. The top hole is the problem. Monday I'm taking it to a Fab shop and getting a quote to make it permanent and having the adapter welded both inside and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 I saw the picture, but other than the hole being a bit bigger than normal, it doesn't really show where the problem is. If the fab shop is willing to weld plate aluminum to cast aluminum they're going to hit you for at least $100 because it has to be TIG welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 That hole is just a hole, nothing even big enough for anything to catch to seal it lol. It leaks like a sob! Yeah skishop69, I saw my fabricator and it's $115 for welding the inside and out side perimeters of the adapter plate. I also get a 1 year warranty lol. He just finished a customer intake manifold for a BBC that is pushing 40psi boost and ys holding so I trust him lol. $115 ain't bad considering I spent that in 4 days driving my 1982 Chevy utility bed work truck just this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 I would just fill the hole with JB weld putty and block sand it. And I own an $8k TIG welder. Cast is a pain in the neck and I wouldn't drag it out for that job. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 I'm going to see him tomorrow about welding it. He recommended I put a threaded plug or rod down first before spending money on welding. Would it hurt to press a small rod down to the bottom of the hole? Coolant can still flow around it, but it would give enough closure for jb weld to bite to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Why don't you obtain another intake manifold, with the smaller hole, thread it, and plug it with an inox screw with loctite? The problem is that the intake manifold also is a coolant passage between both heads; I don't know how safe it could be to close such a wider hole, without interrupting the normal coolant flow between heads... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 I just got a plug threaded in and sealed with jb weld steel stick and then regular high heat jb weld. No leaks and no white smoke! Now she fired up and just trying to understand the idle. Of course I am getting lifter tick now lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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