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I'm not sure on the final drive ratios, but many people have caused synchro clashing problems by switching TO synthetic lube. The OEM fluid or name brand non-synthetic GL-5 plays best. Some folks say the walmart/supertech synthetic BLEND stuff works too - it's cheap to try. Evidently, the syncrho speed is too fast with the synthetics.

 

but, if you've already been down that road, other than just asking car-part.com for a compatible trans, you'd need to research the various final drive ratios.

 

hope someone else responds.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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it's either a 3.9 or 4.11.  in general i think 2.5's are 4.11 and 2.2's are 3.9 so his is likely a 3.9, but there have been some variations to that over the years.

 

www.car-part.com and look for your transmission and also rear differential - some of the listings will show the final drive ratio for the trans/rear diff.  try to confirm it with more than one reading though, don't just go by the first one you see in case it's wrong. 

 

if you get the rear differential to match you can swap both and use any legacy/outback MT from 1995-1999 and any impreza/forester from 1995-1998. 

 

1999 forester/imp and 2000+ are Phase II vehicles - i'm not sure if that matters or not...but it's been discussed before if that's an option you're interested in. 

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Only 2 different ratios huh?  That's simple, I guess...  So I have the 3.9.  I would've guessed I was running 411's, based on how slow I'm going on the freeway at 3500rpm. 

I'm currently running 75-140,(only because I drained my tranny at work, and went to wheel the GL5 can over and welp, it's bone dry.  Mopar 75-140 it is...frick) but the synchros were fried long before I ever so much as topped her off.  After I get a good, smooth replacement, I'll only run that Extra S GL5.

I'm familiar with car-part.  I will do a search for like a 99 legacy with EJ22, trans and diff.  The axles are the same right?

The only thing with that is I'd have to do a hydro clutch swap, and that SOUNDS like a pain if you ask me.  

Maybe I should just buy a 99 legacy.  This poor old car was rode hard and put away wet by the PO, and since it's a Utah car, it's all nice and cancerous underneath.

Speaking of which, why is it that of all the things I see while driving, what sticks out most prominently is subarus with one headlight out, and/or rust below the fuel door?!  Like 80% of the subies I see are like that.

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Because every subru eventually rusts there.

 

3.90 trans you'll run around 3200 at 70 with 185/14 tires IIRC.

 

Those transmissions used to be common as dirt. Legacy Brighton, L, or Base from 90-98 Impreza 93-98ish IIRC. The later ones with hydraulic clutch are also made to work with cable clutch. Just move the pivot stud and put your release fork on it. Good idea to buy a new fork because they tend to crack when they get old.

 

And yeah 75-140 gear oil is horrid in these trans. 80-90 Walmart stuff is better.

 

Not worth it on a trans that old but I've been using Motul 300 in mine and it's like liquid gold. $20 a litre though.

Edited by Fairtax4me
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Yep, exact rpms, speed and tires.  Good call.  

Move the pivot stud huh?  I've never seen the inbetweens of a subie motor and trans, is it a matter of literally moving it, or drilling/tapping a new hole for it?

75-140 was all there was at the time.  Either that time, or later, I also put a quart of lucas treatment in there.  It leaks like a mother...
I swear, after I buy a replacement I won't fill it with garbage. hahaha

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Lucas = Devil for a Subaru trans.

 

It might be worth $15 to try some Wally oil.

Where is it leaking? Axle stubs seals aren't fun to change but they're not the end of the world. Input seal means splitting the case and usually only leaks if the main shaft bearing is going out.

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