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Repair fusible link box?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 wagons

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 08:02 AM

So I am having major no charge issues on my ea82 1987 GL carb 1.8 SOHC. the wires have become brittle and found 2 broken way up inside the fusible link box. Is there a way to separate these wires from inside the fusible link box so I can run new wires into the fusible link box? Or is there a way to make a new fusible link box? No power going to battery, so no charge. Any help is appreciated

#2 DaveT

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 10:08 AM

The metal terminals can be removed from the plastic. If they are not corroded, the crimps can be unfolded. It's not easy, and you have to be careful. Some will un bend, some may break. Re bend them onto new wire, then solder, as they will not hold by crimping alone a second time. If the tabs do break off, small copper tubing pieces can be used to make new Ferrells.

#3 wagons

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:46 PM

Thanks DaveT. I got them apart and rewired and soldered. Made some progress, I have power but new alternator still not charging. It runs but the gauge only registers 8 volts. Somehow I managed to drop and break my dvom so now I'm at a loss

#4 DaveT

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 02:34 PM

How are the 2 small wires on the back of the alternator?

#5 wagons

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 03:44 PM

The red and white one is hit and miss. One minute it has power flow and next it has none. It will dim then bright on the test light. Black and White is a solid bright glow in test light. In fuse box I am not getting current through the fuse, but both brown and red/white sensor wires have power so I'm at a total loss of why it's not charging. It has good tension on belt and not squealing and is rotating as it should. I have heavy duty ground straps in place. Could a bad battery make it show no voltage?

#6 DaveT

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 10:35 PM

Bad battery wouldn't start the engine.

 

The voltmeter on the dash may or may not be reading accurately, it's in a bunch of the car electric system, and something isn't right, so it is not good to rely on it.

 

It's going to be difficult to troubleshoot electric systems without a DVM /  meter.

 

 

The Black  / White wire goes through a fusible link to the battery, so should be at battery voltage at all times.

The White / Red goes through a 15A fuse in the fuse block to the warning lights.

 

Sounds like from your previous post, the B/W is ok.

The W/R has a problem.

 

Try to locate a copy of the schematic from a factory Service manual.  There may be a link on the forum or the internet somewhere.  I can eventually try to get  a scan.


 



#7 wagons

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 06:22 AM

I have a Haynes manual and the wiring diagram seems to be spot on. I got smart and took off all the interior plastics and was poking around at wires. However I did notice that my ignition switch is.lose, like very lose. Pushed it in on the backside where the wires come out and the red/white wire lit up full and bright on the fuse box. Alternator Gauge went slightly up for a second. Problem is tilt column an no switch available for tilt columns. Thank God I knew this and bought a spare use column a while ago. Going to try and swap that in and see if a makes a difference

#8 wagons

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:12 PM

A big thanks out to DaveT! I traced and replaced broken wires in the fusible link box as per his instructions. He helped me solve my "no charge". After getting power in all the right spots via test light, I have now 13.75 volts at the battery and alternator! I picked up a brand new dvom and found out the only thing going wrong is my stupid dash gauge is not working!

#9 DaveT

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:45 PM

Thank you, glad to hear you got it working!




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