sporta06 Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Hey all, Been a long time since I was on the USMB, I used to have an '88 DL that I basically drove the wheels off and loved it. My motto for it was that "it came from Pick n Pull and that's where she will end up"...eventually the motor went out and it did complete the circle of life lol. Recently my dad and I picked up a 1999 Subaru Forester with about 214k on it. Now, I know this might have been a dumb idea (seems we get lots of them lol) but we picked it up from Pick n Pull as a "rebuilder". Well, got it home and it does run and drive, however, there are a few things to work out on it. First and foremost, the clutch (5spd mt) feels off to me...haven't had a manual in a long time but I'm thinking that you should not have to go almost to the floor before you feel the clutch engage. I know the fluid is a tad low and will be filling that up first and will check again. Assuming the fluid does not fix it (not sure it's going to but it's a starting point) does this sound like a worn clutch?? Or is there some adjustment I haven't found yet? The 2nd major issue is there is a clunking noise when driving. Seems to be a CV joint or drive shaft type of sound...will get the car up on ramps/jackstands hopefully this weekend. I did find a receipt that the previous owner had a replacement rear diff installed about 2k ago...anything else major to look for? I am kinda excited to be playing with a Subie again...used to really drool over the old "Hatch Patrol" posts from back in the day...this will most likely remain stock commuter car for either dad or me...maybe one day I can lift if and make a monster Subie out of her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 HI, Welcome back. The clutch does have an adjustment behind the accel. pedal near the firewall - on the inside. Also, there are ways to test the clutch - I'll let you Google those. If the clunking is all the time it could be something else - strut tops or ball joints - CVs usually (?) are noticeable when turning. These are known to go thru rear wheel bearings, too....and check the fuel filler neck for rust. Have fun, Td 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Good for you man, where do you live? If i could buy cars from the pick and pull here in Colorado, i would have about 50 cars by now! They used to let a person do that here, but not anymore unfortunately. I had a 99 outback with clunking in the front, i just ignored it like an idiot, because it was only at full throttle turning right, which i hardly ever did. then about 5,000 miles later she developed a violent shake, luckily she was auto so i slapped her into 2wd and limped her home. My front drive shaft u joint failed so badly it almost tore the driveshaft in half! Used one for $15 set me up proper until my ex gfs mom blew a head gasket and drove her until the engine got so hot, the needle was stuck past the h permanently. Ha! Happy subaruing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) some older soobs had problems with cracked clutch forks do you only hear the clunking or do you feel any bucking/jerking? does it happen at slow speed so someone could pace the car and determine which side is causing the noise? clunking could be inner joint on an axle. Should you determine an axle IS bad - BY FAR, best approach is get a used soob axle (with the green-painted inner joint) from car-part or LKQ, regrease and reboot the inner joint. Edited December 9, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sporta06 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 Good for you man, where do you live? If i could buy cars from the pick and pull here in Colorado, i would have about 50 cars by now! They used to let a person do that here, but not anymore unfortunately. I had a 99 outback with clunking in the front, i just ignored it like an idiot, because it was only at full throttle turning right, which i hardly ever did. then about 5,000 miles later she developed a violent shake, luckily she was auto so i slapped her into 2wd and limped her home. My front drive shaft u joint failed so badly it almost tore the driveshaft in half! Used one for $15 set me up proper until my ex gfs mom blew a head gasket and drove her until the engine got so hot, the needle was stuck past the h permanently. Ha! Happy subaruing! I am in Reno, NV. Have 2 great pick n pull yards close by...they sell the builders in the CA yards also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sporta06 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 (edited) some older soobs had problems with cracked clutch forks do you only hear the clunking or do you feel any bucking/jerking? does it happen at slow speed so someone could pace the car and determine which side is causing the noise? clunking could be inner joint on an axle. Should you determine an axle IS bad - BY FAR, best approach is get a used soob axle (with the green-painted inner joint) from car-part or LKQ, regrease and reboot the inner joint. It sounds like a clunk with a buck and jerk...Think I may be on the path to a solution for the "clunking"...backed the Subie up on the ramps to check the CV joints....all boots are intact (couple of them are showing their age but holding still) and the front axles seem quite solid...now the back...that's a different story...I snapped a couple of pic of the rear axles where they meet the rear diff (sorry cannot figure how to place the pics in the post) I am getting a ton of play in and out of the differential...looks like almost 1/4" of play in and out of the differential (guestimating as I had nothing to accurately measure with on me)...is this in anyways normal? What retains the axle into the differential? Thanks, Steve Edited December 12, 2017 by sporta06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) I'm no expert but, I suspect that's normal - looks dry and if there was a severe issue there, I'd bet fluid would be leaking past the seals. (NOTE: might be a good idea to check the fluid level back there - or just do a fluid change) they are retained by C-clips like front stubs/axles IIRC. you could dig around at www.opposedforces.com for a diagram. sometimes, bad u-joints can mimic torque bind - probably have to disconnect the shaft to really test them but, the symptom seems more like the center diff has gone bad. One more test. Arrange to drive the car in tight circles on dry pavement when it is STONE COLD. Not even 5 minutes of driving OK? If it doesn't buck when cold, but does after 5-10 minutes of driving, 95% that the center diff is bad in the trans. Have read of this several times in the past. Edited December 13, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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