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3.0 H6 decent? also have HG issues?


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#51 pontoontodd

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 04:53 PM

I have a 2002 OB with EZ30 with over 240k on it.  I've had it for about a year and 15k miles.  The whole time it's been consuming coolant at the rate of roughly a quart per 500 miles.  Basically every couple tanks of gas top it off, doesn't overheat if it stays mostly full.  Doesn't use much coolant at all when my wife is driving it around town.

I have a 1999 OB we swapped an EZ30 into, also about a year ago, and I've put about 20k miles on that.  The first engine from the original donor car was leaking like a sieve from about a dozen places.  The next one seemed to have the normal slow coolant losing head gasket leak and supposedly under 100k miles from a junkyard.  Got them to replace that one with one with supposedly 80k miles on it.  Same deal with that one, and it leaks oil.  The oil leak is not really while the car is running, most times if you let it sit overnight there'll be a couple little puddles of oil under it.  We have plumbed the coolant system to purge itself of air and I haven't had to add coolant in a long time, but not really a long term or universal solution.

I just purchased a 2001 OB with EZ30 with 156k on it.  Has the same oil leaking issue described above, seller estimated a quart per month of normal driving.  He says the mechanic he took it to said it was the head gaskets.

 

So eventually I may wind up doing the head gaskets on all three of these.  Thought about just replacing them with lower mileage used engines but didn't have any luck with that for my 99.  I've heard the timing chains last forever in these things, what would be worth replacing while the engine is apart?  Water pump, head and valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, radiator hoses, timing chains/guides?  I've read elsewhere on this forum that the heads and/or blocks are basically always warped on these by the time the head gaskets leak.  Is that true?  That changes this from a weekend project to an engine build and waiting for a machine shop to flatten things.



#52 Bushwick

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:02 PM

I MADE A VIDEO......I do not know how to post them, but I am also trying to force myself to wait and relax, until I can definitely say that it is not the inspection plate for the torque convertor bolts....
I am an anxious dude....

 

This might sound like a strange question, but HOW do you have the PCV system hooked up presently?

 

Reason I ask, is I had a 99' Saab 9-3 with the 2.0L and retrofitted a larger GT2560 (custom) turbo and for a time, I was running a breather as the inlet to the turbo was custom to connect to the bigger cold-side housing. Not immediately, but soon it started clanking in the top-end, seemingly at random. Thought it was possibly a timing chain issue, etc. After finally connecting the PCV up correctly, low and behold the sound went away, so something with that particular engine needed the PCV system working correctly to avoid the issue. I even reverted it a couple times just to verify and the sound only manifested when a straight breather filter was connected vs. a vacuum source drawing out.

 

So before completely throwing in the towel, hook everything up 100% THEN see what it might or might not need.



#53 kennycoulter

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 10:57 AM

really weird sounding.  maybe it was the pcv itself, sticking and releasing?

I just have a generic hose going directly from the NEW pcv, running directly on top of the engine, into the vertical inlet on top of the intake.   I was considering a air/oil separator.  Both hoses were insanely brittle (high and low mileage).  both dumped oil out....   I am not sure where there'd be room to mount the catch can in the engine bay, maybe hang it close to the fuel filter.


I got a call from the trans shop today: my suspicion was confirmed, and all is good!

@pontoontodd, I hope that I don't run into those issues.    Earlier in this thread, I tried to link to the brand of gasket kit that I bought that was cheaper: it actually had Subaru gaskets in it.  for some reason, it didn't have the rear main seal

Usually when I rebuild an engine (minus machine work), I do ALL gaskets, ALL hoses, water pump, typical filters.    with the fact that these are all seeming to overheat and warp, machine work WOULD be necessary, but some others hopefully chime in with more facts on having that done: supposedly crank and/or rod bearings and other things will be messed up.



#54 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 12:57 PM

seems like oil and maybe coolant analysis from a lab might be helpful.

 

I have read of really odd problems when breather hoses get misrouted, even affected oil pressure!

 

make sure the breather hose is correctly routed too (this is just the left side, there's one from the RS as well - #4 is the PCV valve));

 

308234d1477925822-no-vacuum-airbox-port-


Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 20 February 2018 - 12:58 PM.


#55 kennycoulter

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 02:47 PM

I have never heard of anything like that.....weird.

I bought some thinner wall tubing to replace the "plasticized" hoses that will be able to connect to the actual plastic tube that bolts to the intake. I will run it in the same route soon, but wanted it running to get it to the trans shop or to make sure the car would run.  I always try to run my hoses and wires in the factory location, just for aesthetics....I hope the additional 1.5 feet going to the port on the passenger side from the brake booster doesn't affect brake performance



#56 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 03:35 PM

as long as there's a valve/'pill' correctly oriented in the brake booster system and connections are tight , etc. should be fine.



#57 Bushwick

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 04:02 PM

Glad they were able to fix it!

 

 

With the Saab, it was definitely something in the timing chain area. I had a small air filter-style breather venting to atmosphere, which it didn't like. Once it had vacuum pulling, it stopped making a ruckus. That car could throw some serious oddball lessons at you. 

 

Get a vid up of the new engine running!



#58 kennycoulter

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 12:45 PM

I drove it to work today (46 miles), after getting a new title, plates, registration, insurance (an additional 10-12 miles).......it did just fine, but the front wheel well area on the passenger side came loose and was rubbing the tire (is that where the trans fluid filter is?)... I didn't see it on the trans, and they claimed it was in the wheel well.

car goes really well.  for some reason, the oil seems to be reading high.   the coolant is all good.   I smell some gas ( I filled it up today, so I wonder if it also has a bad filler neck).  Check engine light is on, but I wasn't able to scan it yet.   Seems like a LOT of heat from the exhaust after just a few miles on the car today.   Otherwise, this thing is super smooth, trans  shifts sooooo much quicker and firmer than my 2013 fusion.  Super comfy over all of the Ohio battlefield blasted highways. 



#59 pontoontodd

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 01:29 PM

I drove it to work today (46 miles), after getting a new title, plates, registration, insurance (an additional 10-12 miles).......it did just fine, but the front wheel well area on the passenger side came loose and was rubbing the tire (is that where the trans fluid filter is?)... I didn't see it on the trans, and they claimed it was in the wheel well.

car goes really well.  for some reason, the oil seems to be reading high.   the coolant is all good.   I smell some gas ( I filled it up today, so I wonder if it also has a bad filler neck).  Check engine light is on, but I wasn't able to scan it yet.   Seems like a LOT of heat from the exhaust after just a few miles on the car today.   Otherwise, this thing is super smooth, trans  shifts sooooo much quicker and firmer than my 2013 fusion.  Super comfy over all of the Ohio battlefield blasted highways. 

 

The trans fluid filter is in one of the wheel wells.

Did you check the oil on a level surface?  Makes a big difference in Subaru engines.

Midwest Subarus are notorious for the gas filler rusting out, it's in the rear wheel well and gets a lot of dirt, salt, etc.

What do you mean by a lot of heat from the exhaust?  You can feel them through the floor while driving?



#60 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 01:59 PM

soobs also seem to need fuel line clamps tightened-up every 5-10 years.



#61 kennycoulter

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 04:35 PM

I guess I should have detailed that: while checking for fuel smells in the engine bay, the engine bay above the exhaust seemed way too hot for having driven such a short distance, after the car was sitting.  I did not feel that into the cabin.

I was checking the clamps on everything that I had touched.   I had to tighten the clamp on the lower radiator hose a little.   so far, no more leaks.


I already ordered the fuel filler for the 99 wagon.   I bet this is the same problem.    I hope to scan it later and see if the code is the same.
I checked the oil on as flat of a surface as I could, but it might have still been a slight nose down situation.



#62 Bushwick

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 01:48 AM

I know my ej22 has more heat shields than my last 4 cars combined, and several have rattled a bit. PO might have yanked some if those rattled/rotted off, and it might be missing some.

 

MAKE SURE your cats are OK. Any obstructions, or even improper A/F ratios can cause cats to overheat. Had a 92' SHO that wasn't throwing codes, but it's cat was getting hot enough to glow for whatever reason under normal driving, those the cat was practically under the trans tunnel area if it were a RWD car. As you can guess, that level of glow throws off a lot of, well heat.

 

If PO ran the car for awhile with a random misfire or something important causing a misfire, that can over time cause a cat to fail. Have that issue at present with a 99' Continental. It had rodent chew on one bank of ignition coil loom, that was clearly ignored for awhile. After fixing the loom and replacing a couple of affected coils on that side of the engine, the cat demonstrated it had enough, so I need new cats (even though it somehow passed e-check before failing outright, so guess it melted before breaking the honeycomb). FWIRW, the car has 87k miles and stock cats, so it happens. A vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum via T connector can give insight on whether a cat it clogging the exhaust flow. Some online vacuum reference charts to aid where the idle vacuum and higher-rev vacuum should be, and how it should react to throttle blipping.


Edited by Bushwick, 22 February 2018 - 01:51 AM.


#63 kennycoulter

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 11:54 AM

The only code that came up was:
0031, and what looked like 0031 oo (?)   infinity?



#64 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 12:26 PM

front-right (bank 1) O2 sensor or its wiring bad.

 

clear codes and see if the same one comes back quickly


Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 22 February 2018 - 12:27 PM.


#65 Bushwick

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 07:31 PM

https://www.autocode...031_subaru.html

 

Don't ignore that. Remember the Saab I said was good at throwing odd ball curve lessons? It had a heated O2 code (or for the heated element, actual O2 was working) for the downstream O2 which I ignored. After about a year, engine developed a random misfire. While running catless briefly (turbo car) and experiencing a misfire, I tried revving in neutral while car was moving, and heard a large "BOOM". It literally blew the muffler apart at the seams LOL from a backfire.

 

In my case, the physical protective case on the O2 sensor rotted and eventually cracked. An internal short occurred within the O2, and wreaked havoc on the ECU, and was the cause of the misfire due to the short. Engine would eventually stumble badly within 1st 5 minutes of starting engine, then go away.



#66 kennycoulter

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 10:09 AM

I am still having some amount of leaking into the trunk.  I made my own gaskets for the taillight area.  I have not had time to recheck where the leak is coming from...

My CEL has been out since I changed both O2 sensors.  I have not been able to check the MPG yet (still switching between this and another car).

I ordered the taillight housing gaskets ON THE BODY, but the dealership couldn't find the ones for the wing or the light panel that stays on the trunk...

I was hoping that someone might have the number.  As I am searching on Subaru websites, I can't zoom in far enough to see the numbers. 

I was hoping to order window weather strip also.  I get A LOT of wind noise on the highway....

I wasn't sure what I was looking at on the parts site, but it looks lik ethe upper part is separate from the door weatherstrip.   It looks like the upper and lower ARE the same for both sedans and wagons? Can anyone confirm that?

The only other problem that I am having is a clunk sound from both front and back.   I am assuming front ball joints, but the rear sounds like a bad shock.  The front only clunks with a hard turn, or a continuous turn and the body finally leans a little extra.


I replaced my radio since the cd player didn't work.   I had to tear the old one apart to get the CD out...... my car WAS equipped with the onstar buttons, and seems to have some other control box above the heater control (inside the dash).




Would anyone need these or be interested in them?


I really like this car, and my son has finally warmed up to it!   He used to fight me (toddler break down) when it was time to go in something different than my fusion or old truck.


Edit:  Also, where can a person get touch up paint?
Are patch panels sold, to correct the door jamb issue before it gets worse?
 


Edited by kennycoulter, 28 March 2018 - 10:11 AM.


#67 forester2002s

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 10:31 AM

You can get touch-up paint from:

- Subaru dealer (best option); or

- Auto-parts store; or

- Amazon; or

- eBay.

 

You'll need the Subaru color-code (usually shown on the under-hood data-plate).



#68 kennycoulter

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 11:20 AM

I never made it in time to get it ordered from the dealer.  I can't seem to find it online or from those sellers.

My hood was replaced (has info for a 2.5 engine and is a different color white instead of pearl), or is the data plate on the firewall or similar area?

Thank you for the suggestions.



#69 pontoontodd

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 11:52 AM

I am still having some amount of leaking into the trunk.  I made my own gaskets for the taillight area.  I have not had time to recheck where the leak is coming from...

My CEL has been out since I changed both O2 sensors.  I have not been able to check the MPG yet (still switching between this and another car).

I ordered the taillight housing gaskets ON THE BODY, but the dealership couldn't find the ones for the wing or the light panel that stays on the trunk...

I was hoping that someone might have the number.  As I am searching on Subaru websites, I can't zoom in far enough to see the numbers. 

I was hoping to order window weather strip also.  I get A LOT of wind noise on the highway....

I wasn't sure what I was looking at on the parts site, but it looks lik ethe upper part is separate from the door weatherstrip.   It looks like the upper and lower ARE the same for both sedans and wagons? Can anyone confirm that?



 

 

Did you go to subarupartwholesale.com?  They should have breakdowns of all the parts you can zoom in on and find part numbers, pricing, etc.

 

My 2002 OB had wind noise coming from the driver's side mirror.  After trying a few other things I rolled down the window and squeezed on the seal the window slides up into as hard as I could.  Rolled the window back up and now it's much quieter.



#70 pontoontodd

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Posted 30 March 2018 - 08:48 AM

I replaced the valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gasket and hoses, resealed engine oil and auto trans pans, replaced engine and trans filters (three total), engine/trans/front diff oil, coolant, spark plugs, belt, idler pulleys, and air filter on my 2001 OB H6 a couple weeks ago.  My wife's been driving it for a couple days now and at most one night there were a few drops of oil or trans fluid under the car.  Nothing this morning.  So I probably got lucky and the head gaskets aren't leaking.  If you do all that at the same time it's not too bad, unbolt the exhaust from the engine, remove engine mount nuts, jack up the engine, then you can push it to one side or the other at a time.  For the record I used MAHLEVS50489 from Rockauto.  Would have just bought them from the dealer but it's expensive when you add up the valve cover and spark plug hole gaskets from Subaru.



#71 heartless

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Posted 31 March 2018 - 06:07 PM

the under-hood data plate is usually on or near the left front strut tower.

 

for paint needs, I use either my local parts house that will mix paint, or these guys... https://www.automotivetouchup.com/



#72 kennycoulter

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 08:21 AM

well, pulling down on the weather stripping actually worked.  I dislike doing any type of rigged repairs, but I may stuff some foam behind the seal flap to keep it pressed out.  it seemed to do the trick for now.


I was looking in the right place for the data card, but couldn't find my paint code on the Subaru site.   It is just a pearl white with gold-ish lower portions.


I added a bunch of new gaskets when I was throwing the new engine in, but I haven't found the source of my new leak yet...... it is trans fluid coming out, and I am worried that it is from the front seal, but might be from the steering lines or rack(?).

Car is still doing pretty well.

I crawled into the trunk yesterday but couldn't find the source of the leak.  It seems like my homemade silicone gaskets worked for the spoiler, and the taillight seems dry.   I am wondering if when it sits at a certain angle, if it leaks past the weatherstripping for the trunk itself, but I couldn't seem to recreate the situation.


Looking to do the ball joints and probably shocks pretty soon.

edited:
deleted brake squeak comment.... adding in: I can't seem to find the ball joint BOLTS on the Subaru page.  the bolts are shown in three different diagrams, but I can't click on them to add to cart.

 


Edited by kennycoulter, 04 April 2018 - 09:42 AM.


#73 pontoontodd

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 08:59 AM

well, pulling down on the weather stripping actually worked.  I dislike doing any type of rigged repairs, but I may stuff some foam behind the seal flap to keep it pressed out.  it seemed to do the trick for now.


I was looking in the right place for the data card, but couldn't find my paint code on the Subaru site.   It is just a pearl white with gold-ish lower portions.


I added a bunch of new gaskets when I was throwing the new engine in, but I haven't found the source of my new leak yet...... it is trans fluid coming out, and I am worried that it is from the front seal, but might be from the steering lines or rack(?).

Car is still doing pretty well.

I crawled into the trunk yesterday but couldn't find the source of the leak.  It seems like my homemade silicone gaskets worked for the spoiler, and the taillight seems dry.   I am wondering if when it sits at a certain angle, if it leaks past the weatherstripping for the trunk itself, but I couldn't seem to recreate the situation.


Looking to do the ball joints and probably shocks pretty soon, plus the brakes sounded like they were squeaking at times yesterday. 

 

 

Seems like power steering leaks on Subarus are common.  Check all the line fittings you can get to.  I think there are a few on the driver's side near where the steering column comes down to the rack.  There are also two on the passenger side just above the crossmember.  If you have to add power steering fluid you know that's leaking.


Edited by pontoontodd, 03 April 2018 - 09:00 AM.





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