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All wheel disc conversion


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EA82 turbo rear's is the way to get rear discs, assuming you're sticking with 4 x 140. I have a friend in Nevada who has a set spare (4wd) if you're interested. They will fit under stock 13's.

 

Drilled and slotted I haven't seen for rear rotors, and wouldn't make any difference to performance (probably just chew through pads more quickly). Good quality pads and rotors are all you need.

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If you overhaul your current standard brakes all round including caliper overhaul and all new hoses SLA ves and fluid you could be surprised how good it can be - I was! Nearly as good as when I put RX discs on my other ute rear. Think disc rear from ea82 four wheel drive will bolt up easy

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Drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money unless you are racing. They do absolutely nothing to increase braking on a daily driver. The holes and slots are there to dissipate heat from hard and constant braking faster than just vented rotors and yes, they go through pads faster. Just use the factory EA82 rear disc setup and the improvement will be day and night.

Edited by skishop69
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To mount the rear disc brakes you need to grind some of the backing plate away (on the back) and cut a notch in the trailing arm so you can access one of the caliper bolts. All very easy to do. Ideally you will need to fit a proportioning valve too, either the original EA82 one or something aftermarket. Without one you will always lock the rear brakes in hard stops.

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To mount the rear disc brakes you need to grind some of the backing plate away (on the back) and cut a notch in the trailing arm so you can access one of the caliper bolts. All very easy to do. Ideally you will need to fit a proportioning valve too, either the original EA82 one or something aftermarket. Without one you will always lock the rear brakes in hard stops.

 

neither of those things is essential

 

i put discs on my 84 wagon, no grinding anything, and no proportioning valve 

 

works great.

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neither of those things is essential

 

i put discs on my 84 wagon, no grinding anything, and no proportioning valve

 

works great.

First gen is not the same as second gen. Quite a bit of grinding is required for a 78.

 

And I can confirm that the prop valve is important for proper (straight) braking. My 86 Brat would swap ends easily till I added the prop valve.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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GD has posted good info here, for retrofitting it on the EA81:

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/56957-rear-disc-brake-swap/?do=findComment&comment=460004
 

I mounted it using it's stock bracket from the EA82 to one of the mounting holes for the Brat's fuel pump shelf.... but the Brat's fuel pump is located in a different spot than the other EA81's... basically the bracket just has two holes, and you need to find a spot for it. The hard lines I used from the donor car - I pulled as many of the hard lines from the rear of the car as I could get - as well as the couplers and stuff. They bend real easily to fit wherever you decide to put the valve. I just routed the lines as best I could and zip-tied them. I'm sure with more time and effort you could make new lines, and do a more proffessional job of routing. I can get pics of mine if you like, but again - it's a Brat so it's different under there.

GD

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You need the complete rear disc setup from an EA82 4WD turbo model. These ONLY came on turbo models and are getting quite difficult to find. 1990 was the last year for them.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/51028-rear-disc-conversion-for-gen-1s/

 

GD

Thanks for helping me with a lot of my questions I’ll be taking this route if I can
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The drilled and slotted rotors are good for oversized tires that need alot more force to stop or live in 5he mountains or run heavy loads i have yet to change my pads and they have been on the car for 3 years now towing boats other cars on 30" tires so the were factor shouldent be a consideration but they dont stop any beter than standerd rotors they just disipate the heat faster

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