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Transmissions for 2.2-2.5

1993 1999 legacy outback

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12 replies to this topic

#1 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 01:46 PM

I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy at home named "Roopert". He has been a great car and I own him because of his legendary EJ 2.2 engine.

 

His time has come to a end but his engine is still in great shape with 168,000 miles.

I just purchased a 1999 Legacy Outback that has the not so legendary EJ 2.5 with about the same amount of miles 167,000.

 

My question is this: Will the transmission in the 99 outback bolt up to the EJ 2.2 or will I have to change the bell housing?

 

I will be saving Rooperts essence and would prefer the 2.2 in this outback over the 2.5.

 

Your input will be greatly appreciated :)



#2 Gloyale

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 06:16 PM

it will bolt up fine.  Only use 4 of the 8 bolts but fits the same as it was in the 93.

 

You will need to swap the wiring from the 99 intake onto the 93 intake. Swap Cam and Crank sensors, And swap the 99 IAC and throttle body to the 93 intake also.

 

after that it is bolt in plug and play.



#3 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 04:14 PM

Outstanding!! I also felt it would bolt right up but gotta make sure.

 

Thanks for your time.



#4 dfoyl

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 01:22 AM

An Outback with a EJ22 is going to be pretty dreadful for performance and fuel economy. Subaru offered the H6 (eventually) for a reason, and the Outback was that reason.

 

A EJ25D with decent HG's will be a far better option that a EJ22. 135hp vs 165hp isn't to be sneezed at with a 3000+ lb's wagon.

 

The only reason I can think of to use the EJ22 is it's a non-interference design.



#5 idosubaru

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 10:10 AM

You’ll need to swap the rear differential as well to match the final drive of the transmission.

Performance is worth considering if you tow, carry heavy loads, or live at high altitude mountains, etc. Outback may be heavier.

In the end a known EJ22 has better odds than an unknown EJ25D. It’s arguably the best engine Subaru ever made compared to unarguably the worst. I agree an EJ25D isn’t bad necessarily, and can be good engines but it’s got some issues that don’t end well from cheap Craigslist’s specials.

#6 Gloyale

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Posted 23 December 2017 - 01:34 PM

An Outback with a EJ22 is going to be pretty dreadful for performance and fuel economy. Subaru offered the H6 (eventually) for a reason, and the Outback was that reason.

 

A EJ25D with decent HG's will be a far better option that a EJ22. 135hp vs 165hp isn't to be sneezed at with a 3000+ lb's wagon.

 

The only reason I can think of to use the EJ22 is it's a non-interference design.

 

Nah.

 

The EJ22 does just fine in an Outback.  Swapped several now for customers.  In other countries that same car came with a 2.0 engine.

 

Arguably better than a 2.2 equipped standard Legacy since the OB is 4.44 ratio.


Edited by Gloyale, 23 December 2017 - 01:35 PM.


#7 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 10:10 AM

it will bolt up fine.  Only use 4 of the 8 bolts but fits the same as it was in the 93.

 

You will need to swap the wiring from the 99 intake onto the 93 intake. Swap Cam and Crank sensors, And swap the 99 IAC and throttle body to the 93 intake also.

 

after that it is bolt in plug and play.

Hi, I'm in the middle of doing this engine swap. It took me a few months to get to it but this is where I'am at:

I have the 2.2 block in the 99 outback. I swapped the crank and cam sensors and I did have to swap the flex plate since the holes on the 2.2 flex plate didn't line up with the torque converter. It cost me a hour of time but all of us here will benefit from that lost hour on my end.

 

I have the new intake manifold gaskets and I'm getting ready to re-attach the 2.2 intake manifold with the 2.5 wiring harness. I will also swap the 2.5 IAC to the 2.2 manifold.

 

What kind of error codes should I be expecting once this process is complete? I originally thought I would have to use the 2.5 intake manifold but had to scrap that idea since it will not bolt up to the 2.2 block.

Any input you have will be greatly appreciated. 

Heading back out to the garage



#8 idosubaru

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 01:49 PM

Evap/emissions. But they’re benign. Someone else can comment on work around, we can ignore it where I live so I just leave it as is.

For 95-98 EJ22s the EJ22 and EJ25 are basically the same engine as far as the ECU is concerned. Same sensors, no need to swap cam and crank sensors or any other. It’s all plug and play.

Yours being a 93 will have some differences but don’t view te EJ22 and EJ25 as drastically different emgines, just plug it in and drive.

Your Evan/emissions stuff I think is located and routed differently and May give codes

#9 wtdash

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 01:32 PM

You need the '95-'98 SOHC/EJ22 Intake Manifold (IM) WITH the EGR (from Automatics and maybe Cali 5-speeds?) to do this w/out bigger issues. Get one w/the engine harness (or use the 2.5's) and do the EGR delete (no need to drill/tap cylinder head), and install on your '93 EJ22.

 

If you don't care about the EGR CEL, you can use your engine, IF:

  -  Move the OB/2.5's engine/intake manifold harness (may need to loosen IM to fit under) and the throttle body (due to the newer TPS).

  - Deal w/the Charcoal Canister lines

   - Do my EGR delete option

 

There's also a different Starter install as the '99 was the Phase 2 block and bellhousing design changes. It'll work 'as is', but IIRC you may only use one mounting bolt???

 

As you learned the flex plate must match the trans. Any of them will bolt to the engine.



#10 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 09:48 PM

I have completed the swap. I swapped the throttle body and the IAC from the 2.5 manifold over to the 2.2. I also had to splice in connectors to the 2.5 harness so all the connections could be made. The only thing that has no connection is the EGR (there is no EGR on the 93 2.2) and the engine knock sensor.

 

The engine starts just fine BUT there's a problem. I feel it's a busted motor mount but you guys can also chime in (Please:).

Engine is ok in park but once I put it in gear.....this is what happens.

 

Had to upload my 14 MB video to youtube so you guys could view it :)

 

 

https://youtu.be/Jfok5YTmr4U

 



#11 Gloyale

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Posted 05 May 2018 - 12:48 PM

Even with a bad engine mount it shouldn't shake that much.

 

Gonna sound weird but how are the axles?  When you shift to drive, the force going through the axles and holding against the brakes makes a solid "tripod".  If one of your axles has some slop in it, this can cause the weird shake.

 

Although....I am gonna guess that isn't the whole issue here, as that's ALOT Of shakin.  Check all vac hoses......and check each Fuel injector wire to make sure they are all correct.  Pull the injector connectors one at a time and verify the idle changes each one.  If you pull one and no change, then somethings wrong with that injector, it's wiring, or possibly the spark to that cyl, but since you spliced wires for injector I'd suspect that.



#12 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 05 May 2018 - 01:17 PM

Even with a bad engine mount it shouldn't shake that much.

 

Gonna sound weird but how are the axles?  When you shift to drive, the force going through the axles and holding against the brakes makes a solid "tripod".  If one of your axles has some slop in it, this can cause the weird shake.

 

Although....I am gonna guess that isn't the whole issue here, as that's ALOT Of shakin.  Check all vac hoses......and check each Fuel injector wire to make sure they are all correct.  Pull the injector connectors one at a time and verify the idle changes each one.  If you pull one and no change, then somethings wrong with that injector, it's wiring, or possibly the spark to that cyl, but since you spliced wires for injector I'd suspect that.

I didn't splice injector wires. I had to splice in the coil pack connector and another vacuum connection directly under the intake manifold next to the IAC.

 

It's definitely not motor mounts as I checked them thoroughly today.

 

I'm able to start the car, it idles high yet the engine is running smooth. I'm able to drive smoothly for about a mile but as the car warms up the idles drops to about 400 rpm and the shaking starts and car will stall out.  

I have disconnected the battery to reset the computer thinking the ECM needs to re-sync with the car and that has yielded no results.

 

The axles are fine to the best of my knowledge. Since this is happening after the vehicle warms up I'm leaning twords the coil pack


Edited by Gelbin Mekkatorque, 05 May 2018 - 01:28 PM.


#13 Gelbin Mekkatorque

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Posted 06 May 2018 - 09:58 PM

Got it handled. It was a vacuum line going to where it shouldn't.

 

Drove it for about 40 miles today in warm weather. Drove great, didn't overheat with the A.C on






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