Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
85 4WD TURBO RX starter Q.
Posted 03 January 2018 - 01:43 AM
Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:35 AM
Make sure engine can turn over by hand first. Check the cleanth of battery terminal s and cables first. Grounds. Tap starter solenoid while trying to start etc
Posted 03 January 2018 - 03:32 AM
Posted 03 January 2018 - 07:40 AM
You can also get a current draw problem that causes slow cranking. A clamp meter test and some research on the technique might be worth a try.
Earth lead connections both ends.
Connect a crap power supply wont help - as you found out
Have you read Volts at battery while cranking?
Coulkd try swap starters if you have one. I would
Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:13 AM
It is not the starter.
Dash lights going out means means you have bad conections or a dead battery as long as the motor is not seized.
Posted 03 January 2018 - 10:20 AM
Check and clean both ends of the positive and negative cables. Sounds like you have a high resistance issue.
Posted 03 January 2018 - 12:58 PM
Posted 04 January 2018 - 10:30 AM
Posted 04 January 2018 - 10:30 AM
Edited by Jaysus, 04 January 2018 - 10:36 AM.
Posted 04 January 2018 - 11:29 AM
In that case,the problem will be poor connections at the small wire that goes from battery positive to the fusible link
box,poor connections inside the box or at the ignition switch connector(they overheat and melt).
A bad ignition switch could do the same.
Some voltage measuments at various points would be very helpful.
Posted 05 January 2018 - 01:01 AM
Posted 05 January 2018 - 02:05 AM
I think just across battery terminals while it is being cranked and post result up to see if someone recognizes something for a start
This is where you learn so don't have to take it to a shop and bend over
Posted 05 January 2018 - 02:28 AM
Negative lead to battery negative.
All measurements while trying to start
1 Battery positive
2 Battery side of fusible link(can`t remember which offhand,do all 3)
3 Car side of fusible link
4Ignition switch power input by backprobing the connector
5Ignition switch starter output by backprobing the connector(use the meter to deduce which is which)
These should pinpoint the problem.
I`ve had trouble w/a poor connection where the positive wire enters the fusible link box.
Posted 05 January 2018 - 02:42 AM
Posted 05 January 2018 - 02:45 AM
Posted 05 January 2018 - 07:12 AM
imagine if your doctor was back probing you with your consent, you stick the pointy end of your digital multi meter or analogue one if that is the case into the back end of a wiring socket so you touch the part of the terminal that has the crimps around the wire. Youd be looking at the back end of the plug not the front end where the matching plug fits and everything is insulated preventing your DMM probing
You can now buy plastic cased Female Fusible Links called FFL for short, that plug in in place of the coloured fabric ones. Just check leg length of FFL, some are not correct fit. Light blue 20A is a safe intro rating
Posted 05 January 2018 - 07:14 AM
Hey, how about you come up with results of step one before you advance to step 4 !!
May be no need to go there !!
Posted 05 January 2018 - 12:46 PM
Ignition switch connector is at or near the switch under the steering column plastic.
Do the voltage tests in numerical order.
If one is significantly less than battery voltage,you have just gone past the problem area.
It is probably that bad looking fusible link.
Edited by naru, 05 January 2018 - 12:52 PM.
Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:08 PM
Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:45 PM
But - whatever fried the first one is also likely to fry the next one you install unless it’s been repaired. They don’t just randomly blow for no reason.
If you get it started check the alternator output immediately to make sure it’s not overcharging and self destructing.
I’ve repaired this exact thing about 20 times as I’m sure others have. That’s what poor connections always do, like every corroded loose Clamp ever. I would check for voltage at the starter - just follow the positive battery cable to the starter. Put negative lead on negative battery post and positive lead in the positive cable where it bolts to the starter. Make sure the starter is at least seeing 12.x volts.
90+% of the time it’s the connections at the battery. But you do have an older car with exiting electrical issues so odds increase for something else.
The battery terminals and clamps need to be clean and tight. Did you pull and clean the battery terminals and the inside of the clamps? Then you need to verify however the wire is connected to the clamp.
Posted 06 January 2018 - 10:24 PM
Maybe nothing fried the FL, I have found many Subes after 23 years need clean FLs. A replacement may be all it needs. PO give you any history on it?
Posted 07 January 2018 - 08:41 PM
Posted 07 January 2018 - 08:43 PM
Posted 07 January 2018 - 10:42 PM
The small connector is the coil for the solenoid. Apply 12V to that, and the solenoid should engage and run the starter motor. The current draw through that connector is somewhere between 10-20 Amps.
A fully charged, good condition battery at rest - no current in or out for at least a day - is 12.6V
12.4V would be a little low, but still good enough to crank.
12.0 is fully discharged.
11.2V with the starter running, is not unusual.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users