jono Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 (edited) Will also ask in EJ section. Spent good few hours plundering an EJ sedan for its wiring loom Found TCM easy but took the dash and heat cooling system out before I found the ecu in a funny place The plan is one day to use the ecu to give me spparks and nothing more. Use propane for fuel Earlier plan was to install an EDIS system but did not go into detailed costs until yesterday - more than just a module, needs an ecu like megajolt as well So if anyone has ever dumbed down a loom to just make sparks I would appreciate any tips I have in the past done similar to an EA82 GLTA by pulling two of the three ecu plugs just leaving remaining plug to control just the egr valve. All was good. My hope is that to leave the TPS, CAS, Camshaft sensor and knock sensor hooked up to the ecu it will power up the coil and igniter to make sparks for the ej22 Also hoping no interplay between fuel and spark side of things. Cut a heap of wire out to get rid of the auto process unit!! Edited January 3, 2018 by jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm 99% sure on the early auto EJ ECUs there's a particular pin you ground to tell the ECU that it's a manual gearbox. I've not read too much into it as the loom I've played with is from a manual. I like where you're going with this thinking but I reckon you'll run into issues with error code for injectors. Someone may know a way around this, most likely with a resistor of a certain ohm rating per injector. It may need the TPS hooked up. AFM who knows... Have a read on Ausubi (use Firefox or old version of explorer) with the EDIS system the Silverbullet has setup on his EA81S in his wagon build. I don't think it's really that financially involved. The biggest hurdle for him was creating the crank sensor's wheel. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Injector cut would be dealt with as if simply converting a Lib 22 to LPG. Mate, I could stuff the injectors in the glovebox and let them do their thing as if they were a squirtin' if I had to Yeah really see every wire at the engine connectors needs to be connected and dealt with one by one. Ill grab the MAF. Might have to investigate why or where i cut the OBD2 port out as well I looked up the ECU number to find it is a 94 to 96, fits in with 9.95 compliance date, but RTA records show JF1BD6K is for MY1997, could be a double misprint though ECU only has three yellow plugs I found an edis module for 25 bucks, but it is the megajolt system that is pricey, whole kit about 500 bucks !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 It isn't OBD-II. We didn't get those in the states (ours were OBD-II) so I can't help with any diagrams. We went from the 4 plug ECU's to the single plug ECU's from 94 to 95. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) If you hardwire the main relay (brown one) amd it clicks on you should be getting spark. My harness was still hanging over the fender. I did this on my swap, and tested the fuel relay in the same manner. It required two batteries for me to use the starter. You have to supply 12 volts to both wires that are red/yellow stripe iirc. I actually held the relay between my teeth to feel it click on, because it's a little hard to hear. Make sure all four ground points are grounded, i just vice gripped them to the negative battery terminal. Edited January 4, 2018 by sparkyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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