mentis Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 The final answer is froget the stupid AC and fix the ENGINES cooling system first. I was just re-reading this thread.... how did the thermostat work out for you? That's also the route I am taking. I'll worry about the AC when all else is working well, as it's not much of a priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepetitprince Posted July 13, 2004 Author Share Posted July 13, 2004 Since I have been busy, I don't have time to take my take and fix the broken bolt that holds the thermostat house. Since I will be going to need new bolts once I take out the broken one, I went to Ace hardware and purchased strongest grade bolt, and also bought a biggest hose clamp. Right now, one bolt and hose clamp is holding the thermostat housing. Once I have more time, then I will fix it and try all the ways that were posted previously. I know the thermostat is working, but temperature increases above normal temp, so I decided to assume that increasing temp is due to the blown HG. Since I have an engine that I would like to get rebuild, and put it in the Brat later, I'm going to drive around with blown HG. I was wondering what could be the consequence of my action. Hopefully not to bad. thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 If it runs, then you probably do not have a blown HG. Is it losing coolant rapidy? White smoke? Coolant in your oil? The engine would run poorly if at all, and you would certainly have water where it shouldn't be.... My guess is that your guage or sending unit are not accurate. If you have replaced the radiator, thermostat, and radiator cap, then your cooling system is working properly. It takes a LOT to blow a HG on an EA81 usually. I have flogged the one in my wagon mercilessly and it comes back for more. Usually runs around the 3/4 mark when I'm off-roading. And my Brat is about the same.... I suspected the HG's and replaced them myself - since then I have had it hotter than I ever thought possible (blew a heater hose and lost ALL my coolant), and it still runs fine. It was so hot that it would not go over 30 MPH because the pinging was so bad, and the engine was smokeing from cooking the oil and dirt off the block.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepetitprince Posted July 13, 2004 Author Share Posted July 13, 2004 I would love the think that my temp sending unit is inaccurate. I don't know what is wrong with it. It stays on the standard temp for about 5-10minutes of driving then it starts to increase. Soon as I turn the heater on, it slowly decreases to normal temp again. If I turn off the heater while I'm driving, the temp starts to increase again. One day I wasn't paying attention to the temp, and after I parked my car, it started smoking. I think it was smoking from the radiator. I know it is not smart to do, but I open the radiator cap, and with big smoke, the radiator spitted out whole bunch of water. Good thing I wasn't in the way:lol: thanks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lepetitprince Posted July 13, 2004 Author Share Posted July 13, 2004 oh oh oh, I remember there was one time when big white smoke came out. It was during the autocross. Everytime I took sharp turn with high speed, white smoke came out...But since then I haven't seen the "moby wongleflute" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 What are the consequences of driving with a blown head gasket? Having just gone through an engine on my '84 Brat which was loosing coolent on an increasing basis, I can tell you. The coolent loss will continue to increase. Eventually, the car won't get you home. When you check the oil, it will look like a chocolate milkshake due to the water in the oil. And...this is the really bad part...the engine will have a rod knock. So if you want to avoid a major engine rebuild, address the head gasket problem before the effectiveness of the oil is compromised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Yours is a GL-10, so you have a digidash.. its not actually getting hot, its a ground thing. Mine does the same thing.. the more electrical accessories that are on, the higher my temp gauge goes.. I added more grounds under the hood and that helped, but I finally said screw it and put an A-pillar gauge pod in with a spot for an aftermarket temp gauge. I just installed an oil cooler a couple of days ago, and the digital temp gauge is back to it's old antics. Some time ago, the gauge would jump around by going up and then a few seconds later it would fall back down again. So what gives? I am a little concerned about this issue occurring now. Could it be that the oil cooler, which uses 3/8 oil line, is affecting oil pressure and that in turn is causing the engine to heat up sporadically? My next step was going to be a temp sensor replacement and a thermostat replacement. I guess I should think about getting a real temp gauge too so that I can see what's really going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaSkeet Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 i have the same problem with my 93 loyale, with the gauge reading really hot. i wish these things had actual temperatures instead of just a line separating 'good' from 'hot'. anyway, as seen before, after about 10 mins. of driving the car gets in the red. i will try reading the temp. from the outside using a laser reader but does anyone know what the temp. in the red is said to be at? is it in the manual? thanks, skeet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 any of you guys with cooling bugs should install after market gauges and add extra ground wires under the hood. you can even take the aftermarket gauges out after you chase the bugs out, but for now, it's $20 well spent. grounds usually come like this from the factory: battery to chassis OR engine engine to chassis transmission to chassis radiator to frame (more common on older cars) inspect all these and add more in a similar fashion! that will tame your digidash abnormalities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted September 19, 2004 Share Posted September 19, 2004 After recommendations from the forum, I got an OEM thermostat from the dealer for a good $12.50. I have noticed my temps more stable with that in, and I know that whenever I turn any extra electrical items on it goes up. This has at least helped me not to worry, knowing that the temps are where they should be. I still haven't added the extra grounds, but will do that soon, before the big road trip to NC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.