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How to make a '97 legacy faster


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I have a '97 Legacy GT Sedan, AWD, Manual, 2.5DOHC phase 1, 160hp. While adequate for most driving it definetly leaves something to be desired in terms of power. I figure the only way to add power is a new engine or turbo/super charging.

 

I think adding a turbo/super would be too expensive, if you can even find one that would work well, but I would be open to any ideas.

 

I've heard of people adding an EJ20G to other cars but I didn't see anything about a '97 legacy. I'd be concerned that a .5liter smaller engine would not be much of an improvement even though it has ~230hp. I'm assuming all the hp would be after 4k or so and the legacy is a bigger heavier car then the wrx.

 

We'll anyone have any suggestions? My best option might just be to save up for an '05 legacy, even though I really like my '97 and it only has 46k miles.

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A guy on the Toronto Subaru club put a 2.0L turbo engine in his late 90's Legacy. I think it was a 97 GT. From what I read, it did make quite the difference. Not inexpensive though. Takes some cash to do it up right. This was about 1.5, maybe 2 years ago.

 

I wish I knew of an inexpensive way to get more out of these engines without blowing them up. Little things I've done have probably "added" 5, maybe more hp all tolled. If I could just get about 10% or so more, I'd be satisfied. The car is just a bit too much for the engine IMHO (97 OB).

 

Commuter

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Well, your legacy and mine are noticeably the same. Same body, but with the GT I think (think) has the hood scoop, the GT wheels, the sunroof/moonroof thingy, and the spoiler.

 

The hood scoop should come in handy for the TMIC if you went with a JDM EJ20TT swap. That engine is ~280hp. (you can find them on ebay for $1000+. I've seen then go for $1500 to $4000 personally) You'll need the ECU, engine harness, exhaust, and probably the fuel pump would be nice. Or upgrade to a walbro pump or something...

 

if you choose to keep your 2.5L, the most obvious choices are...

 

1. header

2. cat-back

3. weight reduced pulley (or set)

4. lightened flywheel

5. better transmission (6 speed?)

 

As for the header, most obvious choices are cobb, borla, and TWE. I have no useage experience in any, but it seems that people like cobb and twe for performance and borla for the real "flat-four" developing sound. And the borla is the least expensive to my knowledge.

 

Exhaust, of course, the same manufacturers.

 

There are crank pulleys and whole pulley sets for cars that are lightened. every pound off the crank (flywheel or pulley, ect.) relives about somewhere above 1 hp (like 1.2 or 1.4, I don't remember the given number) of lost hp in the drivetrain, back to the ground. Not that you are gaining Hp, but that you're engine doesn't have to work as hard to get it on the ground. so your loss in the drivetrain isn't as high. (that explanation works)

 

don't forget cams/pistons/headwork. valves, porting and polishing, 3 angle valve cut, ect. some of that stuff can get expensive.

 

There's tons of options I think for the 2.5L. I'm not sure as to which yours is an open deck or semi open deck engine, but if it IS open deck, I'm not one to suggest turboing it. If you want SERIOUS power, but still have some driveability (ie: not relying on serious monster N/A cams) go with an engine swap. also, if you do go N/A and keep the EJ25, an intercooler and oil cooler would help. ;)

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Well, your legacy and mine are noticeably the same. Same body, but with the GT I think (think) has the hood scoop, the GT wheels, the sunroof/moonroof thingy, and the spoiler.

 

The hood scoop should come in handy for the TMIC if you went with a JDM EJ20TT swap. That engine is ~280hp. (you can find them on ebay for $1000+. I've seen then go for $1500 to $4000 personally) You'll need the ECU, engine harness, exhaust, and probably the fuel pump would be nice. Or upgrade to a walbro pump or something...

 

if you choose to keep your 2.5L, the most obvious choices are...

 

1. header

2. cat-back

3. weight reduced pulley (or set)

4. lightened flywheel

5. better transmission (6 speed?)

 

As for the header, most obvious choices are cobb, borla, and TWE. I have no useage experience in any, but it seems that people like cobb and twe for performance and borla for the real "flat-four" developing sound. And the borla is the least expensive to my knowledge.

 

Exhaust, of course, the same manufacturers.

 

There are crank pulleys and whole pulley sets for cars that are lightened. every pound off the crank (flywheel or pulley, ect.) relives about somewhere above 1 hp (like 1.2 or 1.4, I don't remember the given number) of lost hp in the drivetrain, back to the ground. Not that you are gaining Hp, but that you're engine doesn't have to work as hard to get it on the ground. so your loss in the drivetrain isn't as high. (that explanation works)

 

don't forget cams/pistons/headwork. valves, porting and polishing, 3 angle valve cut, ect. some of that stuff can get expensive.

 

There's tons of options I think for the 2.5L. I'm not sure as to which yours is an open deck or semi open deck engine, but if it IS open deck, I'm not one to suggest turboing it. If you want SERIOUS power, but still have some driveability (ie: not relying on serious monster N/A cams) go with an engine swap. also, if you do go N/A and keep the EJ25, an intercooler and oil cooler would help. ;)

Were you sugesting a intercooler on a nonturbo car? If so what would be benefits and how would you do it?

kdub

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These days, with emissions demands there is little scope for engines to be tuned by "agressive" valve timing. Eg. it is a big NO-NO to have large overlap and let fuel flow out unburned. So the car companies need to focus in other areas. My point?

 

Port polishing will not acheive much, because the ports are already flow optimised from the factory.

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One rule of thumb is that the value of your car is decreased by the value of the modifications.

 

Don't put a cent into it. Save your money and buy something that has more performance potential. Putting a more powerful turbo engine in it will just make the tires and brakes inadequate. Keep the Subaru as-is and buy a motorcycle....

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ranger has a point. a honda CVR-955 is a $9000 crotch rocket, it's faster than pretty much any ferrari. runs a 9 second stock. does the half a mile in 17 seconds. goes 230mph. it's fast.

 

some people say you don't need to, but intercooling a car that's N/A isn't a bad idea, you just won't see as much of a difference as if you were running a turbo. What's bad about making sure the air coming into your intake is cool?

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I dont think a inner cooler on a NA car like the legacy would be that cost effective.

 

You could always upgrade your ignition ( MSD ) and then you gain some gas milage along with more power.

 

If i wanted to keep the same engine in your car i would get a complete new exhust headers, cat back sytem, upgrade the igntion and get some light weight pulllie and a STi air filter. I would also get STi engine and trannie mounts i heard may times it makes your car fell like it hs gained 15 horse, becasue of the gain how much stiifer the mounts are there is less engine movment, so the engine is more repsonsive and losses less horse power through the drive train. Alos puts less stress on the drivetrain.

 

If i wanted to fell the diffrence i would do every thing at once, spend a weekend installing it so you can acuily fell a farily noticable imporvment in performance. If you only do one thing at a time you probley wont really be able to notice a gain.

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  • 2 weeks later...

check out boxer4racing.com I have a 97 2.5 legacy gt and a few months ago bought a borla exh. header which increased my low-mid range powr, i have installed a magna flow muffler, and plan on replacing the center pipe and cat this month. the header was one of the best purchaces i have made. the sound and performance of the exhaust is more than i expected and it is not fully complete yet. i have a cold air intake on order, but in the mean time i removed my air box from inside the fender, installed a k&n airfilter, and modified sopme of the remaining air box. there are plenty of performance parts and tuning for these vehicles.

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