84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 I am having a problem with the car flooding after running. I can run it and it runs great but if I shut it off it won't restart after a couple minutes. I pulled the plugs and the cylinders are full of fuel. I pulled the vacuum line off the fuel regulator and I'm not getting any fuel in it so I believe the diaphragm is good. I replaced the fuel pump earlier and I'm wondering if it is too high of pressure. I have looked and can't find the fuel pressure specs for this car. Does anybody have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 I tested it at the fuel filter under the hood and it pegged my gauge that goes to 100 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 yeah that's high. the regulator is not doing it's job, or the pump is too high pressure and the reg can't handle dropping that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 There is a regulator beside the fuel pump on the splash plate that has an adjustment on top. Can I dial it down from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 (edited) 84GLturbo, on 03 Mar 2018 - 11:17, said: 84GLturbo, on 03 Mar 2018 - 11:17, said: 84GLturbo, on 03 Mar 2018 - 11:17, said: There is a regulator beside the fuel pump on the splash plate that has an adjustment on top. Can I dial it down from there? Are you sure that is a regulator? Definitely non stock. 100 psi might not be too high depending on how you hooked up the gauge. If you just deadheaded the filter output you might get 100. If you teed in the gauge,100 is way high. The return line may be blocked.Check. You want about 28 at low idle,43 at full boost. 36 engine stopped or engine running w/FP reg.vacuum line disconnected. My 84 turbo FP regulator went bad very recently. First symptom I noticed was The regulator seemed sticky. Sometimes too high,sometimes too low. Stock is unavailable so I bought one of those adjustable $20 Chinese ebay ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Fuel-Pressure-Adjustable-Regulator-With-Filled-Oil-Gauge-Aluminum-Blue/261732705229?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Car never ran better. So far,so good. Only complaint is that it does not hold pressure on shutdown very well. I`m running an onboard gauge now. Edited March 4, 2018 by naru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 I am trying to get an understanding of the fuel plumbing, somebody may have replaced the lines at some time. The line coming out of the filter from the pump tees off and goes to the rear injectors. There is a crossover to the front injectors and the front ones are plumbed to each side of the regulator and the line on the top of the regulator goes back to the return on the firewall. Does this sound correct? I have tried to find diagrams and am not having any luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Here is a pic of the regulator by the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Hard to tell,but,that looks more like a pulsation damper. Does it have a vacuum line? If it is an aftermarket regulator,it needs a vacuum line so that it knows when to vary the pressure. Edited March 4, 2018 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) 84GLturbo, on 03 Mar 2018 - 12:58, said: I am trying to get an understanding of the fuel plumbing, somebody may have replaced the lines at some time. The line coming out of the filter from the pump tees off and goes to the rear injectors. There is a crossover to the front injectors and the front ones are plumbed to each side of the regulator and the line on the top of the regulator goes back to the return on the firewall. Does this sound correct? I have tried to find diagrams and am not having any luck. Hard to tell if you are talking about the regulator built into the fuel rail at the centre of the engine or the "regulator" at the back. The rubber line from the filter goes to the rearmost hardline.NoTees. The return line from the FP reg, is the upper front one.Is it clear back to the tank? Was the gauge Teed in or not? What pump did you use? Edited March 4, 2018 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) That is way too high. Deadheading a factory pump should net you about 60PSI, no more than 70 so the pump you have has too high a pressure rating. The specs Naru gave you are what they should be running. Those injectors weren't designed to seal against that kind of pressure so that's why you're getting fuel in the cylinders. It's also possible that if it were ran at that pressure for long enough, the pintles and seats in the injectors are damaged and won't seal now. Just like Naru said, the line from the FF goes to the rear hard line which feeds all of the injectors. There should not be any T's. Disconnect the supply and return lines from the engine and the tank/fuel pump and blow compressed air through them to make sure they're clear. If they are, hook them back up except the return line at the tank and put it in a can or bottle. Fire up the engine briefly to see if you're getting fuel out the return line and that will tell you if you're hard lines up front are clear without pumping gas all over a running engine. Any T's you find need to be removed. Supply line should go form the tank to the pump to the engine and the return line goes from the engine to the tank. Both are a straight shot. No T's. It's possible someone was screwing around with it and got the supply and feed lines swapped and then tried to 'fix' a problem they created by adding the T's to relieve pressure or that something in the return side is plugged. Edited March 4, 2018 by skishop69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I am trying to get an understanding of the fuel plumbing, somebody may have replaced the lines at some time. The line coming out of the filter from the pump tees off and goes to the rear injectors. There is a crossover to the front injectors and the front ones are plumbed to each side of the regulator and the line on the top of the regulator goes back to the return on the firewall. Does this sound correct? I have tried to find diagrams and am not having any luck. Diagram here on page 28 of the ea81 service manual. http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 FYI, these are the same injectors used on turbocharged Datsuns in the 80's, but Subaru ran them at a lower fuel pressure, 36 psi instead of the industry standard of ~43 psi. The pressure regulator in in the engine bay, the device down on the fuel pump shelf is a pulse-dampener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 The pump I put on was an Import Direct brand part # E16078. I checked the return line back to the tank and it is clear so I am going to replace the other lines as per the diagram. Thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) That pump is not the problem. Looks fine. All of the aftermarket pumps for this application look exactly the same to me regardless of the brand name applied. All have the same specs too. I suspect they all come from the same Chinese factory. Edited March 6, 2018 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Lol It actually is stamped made in usa. First part I have seen made here in a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 I ran new lines and they all match the diagram. I made a tee with my gauge and it is 50 lbs with just the pump on and just under 40 when cranking. The pressure bleeds right off when just the pump was on but it holds around 40 when cranking and holds it until I cycle the key back on then bleeds right off. Wouldn't start and when I pulled a plug the cylinder had a lot of fuel in it. I verified we had spark afterward also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Could the injectors be stuck open? How can I test them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) That fuel pressure is still 10 psi high. Could be the problem right there. I noticed mine started to idle bad at 40-50 psi. Try again w/dry cylinders and plugs. I`ve tested my injectors for leaks by removing them from the heads but keeping them attached to the pipes. Or you can block the return and supply lines w/pressure on the gauge. If it drops,the injectors are leaking. Edited March 6, 2018 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 You need to find the troubleshooting diagrams for the EA81T and follow those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 You need to find the troubleshooting diagrams for the EA81T and follow those. Why? Which diagrams are those? I don`t know of any relevent ones. Most of the FSM troubleshooting trees are crappy or just obvious stuff anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I plugged the return line on the reg and bumped the pump with the gauge teed in. It started at 50 lbs and I left it overnight, about 17 hours and it dropped to 35. I can't see that little bit of leakage flooding the motor. I have spent a long time looking for troubleshooting diagrams and the ones I have found really don't tell you anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I didn't take the temperature into account, we were in the high 20's last night and now that it is warming up it is back up to 45. It might not have any leakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84GLturbo Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Well I just pulled off the distributor cap and nothing. The damn timing belt must have broke.... I had spark a couple days ago so it must have happened since then. Guess its time to get dirty, any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Your FP regulator is not working. 50 psi is too high. There is a small chance the return line is open,but,restricted. I would direct the return into a fuel can instead of the tank to see if it makes any difference. Only other possibilites are an inaccurate gauge(seems unlikely) or an overpowering pump(its not). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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