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Rear Wheel bearings: NTN grease good, or repack?


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26 replies to this topic

#26 kamesama980

kamesama980

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  • Columbus, IN

Posted 20 March 2018 - 09:20 AM

I think they don't understand what's going on when you press the hub in. You support the inner cone/inner race, which pushes on the outer cone's inner race. No more force than is normally encountered when the bearing is fully assembled is put on the rollers as the clearances are set by the dimensions of the two inner races.

 

Sounds to me like they are doing it wrong, and then changed their approach to do it wrong another way instead of learning and understanding the right way to do it. 

 

I am doing it the way the factory service manual outlines using the SST made by Kent-Moore. Though I use a Hub Tamer by OTC. Same tool just different branding and 1/10th the price.  

 

GD

YES.

 

Follow the directions Subaru gives. Some OE engineering is a compromise (mpg vs power vs emissions) but the basics (how to install a bearing) are not.



#27 LeolaPA

LeolaPA

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Posted 31 March 2018 - 07:32 PM

I think they don't understand what's going on when you press the hub in. You support the inner cone/inner race, which pushes on the outer cone's inner race. No more force than is normally encountered when the bearing is fully assembled is put on the rollers as the clearances are set by the dimensions of the two inner races.

 

Sounds to me like they are doing it wrong, and then changed their approach to do it wrong another way instead of learning and understanding the right way to do it. 

 

I am doing it the way the factory service manual outlines using the SST made by Kent-Moore. Though I use a Hub Tamer by OTC. Same tool just different branding and 1/10th the price.  

 

GD

When I asked about this I already had the new seal and inner bearing on the hub, so I was obliged to do it that way or throw away a $60 bearing.  I used a Ebay hub tool and also used an old inner race pushing on the inner side inner bearing, and pushed the outer assembly together.  After I got the tool off the assembly, I turned the hub it it was difficult to turn.  I had to lever the seal in, so I got a screwdriver and did that, and the force of levering between the hub and the seal loosened up the turning a little.  I then put the slide hammer back on the hub and gave it one or two whacks, and that made it so the hub turned smoothly.  I don't think I would want to do it this way again.  I could have broken the tone wheel if the screwdriver had slipped.   

 

So, anyway this did not take care of my noise.  I still have a noise when I am going at 30 or 40 mph and let off the gas to coast.  I don't know what it is now.  Maybe driveshaft is the next thing to check?   I don't know.  Pretty frustrating...






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