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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Cooling System not working properly - Tried everything.

thermostat sensor sender cooling coolant stuck fan water pump overheat radiator

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39 replies to this topic

#26 Bushwick

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 09:19 AM

Have you tested the actual fans to see if they even work? i.e. disconnect, and jump them to power, or if car has AC, turn on AC, and see if they come on with the compressor engagement?

 

Are you by any chance running a lower temp thermostat? A low temp thermostat OR no t-stat can delay the fans coming on. I used to run a non t-stat in my '79 Mustang (mild 306, iron heads + block & 10:1 comp.) and IIRC, it ran something like 35 degrees cooler than what would be "normal". It had a mechanical fan and a carb, so was never an issue, though more modern cars would/should throw codes griping about taking too long to reach the "ideal" temp in X amount of time.

 

Years ago my ex had the last gen VW Beetle with the 1.8L turbo (the one where you have to pull half the front end off and remove a motor mount to do a timing belt and water pump (q= :angry:) and after getting everything back together, it's lower hose stayed cold, fans never seemed to kick on, and temps were slightly off. It had one of THE most stubborn systems to fully bleed air out of. Took a couple days with me obsessing over it to finally get it acting right. Once the air was gone, the lower got hot AFTER the t-stat opened.



#27 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 09:28 AM

^^^^^^ +1

 

I was complaining about trapped air to a mechanic once and he said there's Toyota that requires filling through a hose first - it isn't rare or a Subaru-only issue. Purging air out seems tricky on certain engines. An old Honda I had , had a bleeder screw (like a brake caliper type) I had to loosen, then begin filling with coolant and close the screw when coolant shot out.



#28 sirtokesalot

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 09:14 PM

i had a similar issue with my fans and found a pinout of the ecu then checked with a volt meter if the ecu was sending the signal to the fan relay. in my case my ecu was not commanding the fans on.



#29 L5wolvesf

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Posted 04 April 2018 - 10:23 PM

^^^^^^ +1

 

I was complaining about trapped air to a mechanic once and he said there's Toyota that requires filling through a hose first - it isn't rare or a Subaru-only issue. Purging air out seems tricky on certain engines. An old Honda I had , had a bleeder screw (like a brake caliper type) I had to loosen, then begin filling with coolant and close the screw when coolant shot out.

 

Toyota Pickups and 4Runners are that way. When you fill them put the vehicle on an incline and you're good. 



#30 idosubaru

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Posted 05 April 2018 - 01:17 PM

i had a similar issue with my fans and found a pinout of the ecu then checked with a volt meter if the ecu was sending the signal to the fan relay. in my case my ecu was not commanding the fans on.

model and year?

In the US it’s only sometime after 2000 that the ECU is involved right? Looks like he’s in another country and should probably figure out if his is ECU controlled or not.

#31 jeryst

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Posted 05 April 2018 - 05:52 PM

You can buy mechanical temp guages on ebay that measure the temperature of
the block instead of the coolant. You may want to get one of those to get
true readings while you operate the vehicle with and without a thermostat.

Since you believe the current sensors and guage may not be correct, this is
probably the best way to monitor the temperature under various conditions.

Engine blocks and upper radiator hoses get extremely hot under normal conditions,
so basing your observations on that or on particular smells may not be accurate.

#32 idosubaru

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Posted 06 April 2018 - 06:34 AM

You can buy mechanical temp guages on ebay that measure the temperature of
the block instead of the coolant.

 

Thanks for the details, that's what i was suggesting:

 


I would get the temp gauge working properly. Replace sensor and swap in another instrument cluster (which is really easy just get a used one). Or pull and inspect yours to see if you can repair it. Or get an aftermarket gauge while you figure this out. Either way Get some real data.

 

It seems silly to proceed with anything before knowing the actual data rather than perceptions. I get it at first glance we make assumptions and are often right if it's obvious.  But It's not like we haven't been stuck before only to find our perception of a situation was derailing us from progress. 

 

Get some real data. 



#33 Numbchux

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 10:44 AM

I see nothing in here that says there even is a problem. IMHO, all this speculation about different causes are pointless until we get an actual temperature on the engine. 4 different temp sensors say nothing is wrong.



#34 sirtokesalot

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 07:15 PM

model and year?

In the US it’s only sometime after 2000 that the ECU is involved right? Looks like he’s in another country and should probably figure out if his is ECU controlled or not.

 

 

  1998 outback i would think it is controlled by the ecu.


Edited by sirtokesalot, 09 April 2018 - 07:17 PM.


#35 Numbchux

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 02:18 PM

model and year?

In the US it’s only sometime after 2000 that the ECU is involved right? Looks like he’s in another country and should probably figure out if his is ECU controlled or not.

 

All EJs (in the US anyway, there may be an exception elsewhere) have ECU-controlled fans



#36 Gloyale

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 03:31 PM

I see nothing in here that says there even is a problem. IMHO, all this speculation about different causes are pointless until we get an actual temperature on the engine. 4 different temp sensors say nothing is wrong.

 

+1

 

An EJ15?  soooo much water around those small barrels in the EJ case!!! Man I wish we got a few of those.

 

 Doesn't surprise me at all it would not need to open thermostat or run fans at idle.



#37 Gloyale

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 03:35 PM

Test the fans and relay circuit by setting heater to "defrost" setting or turn on A/C if it has it.

 

Fans should turn on.  If they do, then I'm gonna say this car has no issue.



#38 quentindc

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 04:51 PM

Hi All,

 

My Mechanic friend took the car back to the garage, he told me the heater core was fine, he did several pressure tests and for him the HG is fine too. He talked about this to a friend of his who is a Subaru Mechanic who hopefully can have a look. 

Meanwhile I have been driving without Tstat. I know it's not the best but still better than having a Tstat constantly closed. 

 Keep you guys posted.



#39 davidbaja

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 12:04 PM

blown headgasket went through same with baja ej25



#40 Gloyale

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 03:18 PM

blown headgasket went through same with baja ej25

 

naaahh

 

no bubbles in overflow, no loss of heat, no coolant loss.  No overheating.  If anything the opposite, he says car runs right int eh middle of the gauge.

 

The lower radiator hose should be noticeably cooler than the upper if the radiator is working well.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: thermostat, sensor, sender, cooling, coolant, stuck, fan, water pump, overheat, radiator

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