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Hi! I am new to group and need advice. I just had new belt and tensioner pulley installed. About 30 miles later it started making awful noise. I called and said it looked like belt is slipping off. He told me to drive it back so he could look at it. All my friends said to NOT drive it. It looks like the belt idler pulley is bent towards engine and belt is about to come off...I also see some metal shavings. I will have it towed there, but I'm afraid they will say it's a separate issue and I will have to pay more. Any thoughts? Perhaps it wasn't installed properly to begin with and caused other pulley to bend? I am surprised he told me to drive it

 

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Very common on that engine. The serpentine pulley bearings should be replaced every 60,000 miles. There are two - or bearing in the pulley and the other in the tensioner pulley. Same 6203 bearing.

 

$10 for quality Japanese bearings on amazon and they only take 30-60 minutes to replace. Very easy job - do it every 60k and you’ll never have this happen again.

 

As to your existing issues:

 

1. Check the work done

 

2. If the previous pulley was bad enough it may have ruined the mount/bracket the pulley attaches too. Replace the mount. Buy a used or new one.

I can ship you a used one for $37.

 

It should be this part you need

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Tribeca-Compressor-Bracket-23950AA070-/173149143638

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Thank you for advice! Unfortunately I am no a mechanic, so I was looking for advice on previous work done. I am thinking if they improperly installed the tensioner pulley, that it broke the next pulley. I don’t want to get ripped off if that is the case.

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It’s hard to say without seeing it.

 

Questions that might help us:

 

1. What happened when the first pulley broke? Did you drive it to failure or belt breakage or was it just making noise?

 

2. What all did they replace - post names/part numbers.

 

We can work with real data but not foggy ideas.

 

The most likely explanation is it’s not the mechanics fault and the previous failure caused isssues that caused this failure. The mechanic should have noted it, but he didn’t cause it. He is to blame for not seeing it the first time and maybe should feel bad for later damage, but not for causing the damage caused by you driving it to failure.

 

Usually the *previous* failed pulley failed and then as it was failing it mangled the mounting surface behind it. Then the new pulley didn’t sit right and failed afterward.

 

Or the mechanic may have not done something correctly or if they were wildly guessing and rushing and the only symptom they verified was a broken belt - they replaced the wrong pulley. There are two that commonly failed, maybe they replaced the wrong one.

 

It’s hard to say without seeing it, this issue is so common either scenario is likely.

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To say it simply this is no immediate red flag that the mechanic messed up, caused this or is ripping you off.

 

Maybe it happened but it’s more likely due to the previous failure.

 

As an illustration - To some extent the driver is most likely to blame to keep driving the vehicle too long with a failing pulley which then caused more damage. Without more info I would caution against pointing fingers and being demanding of the shop.

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Put it in google calendar or time it with something. You’ll want to do those bearings in those pulleys again in 60,000 miles or 3-5 years if you still have the car.

 

Like I said you just just google or ask - the parts are $10 and any shop can tap them in. For parts only (no labor) That’s $20 instead of $200 to repair the same thing. $20 for two bearings instead of $200 to replace the tensioner and pulley like you just did.

 

And it doesn’t really take any more labor to do bearings. It’ll take them 43minutes instead of 38 minutes so you’re paying an hour labor either way.

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Put it in google calendar or time it with something. You’ll want to do those bearings in those pulleys again in 60,000 miles or 3-5 years if you still have the car.

 

Like I said you just just google or ask - the parts are $10 and any shop can tap them in. For parts only (no labor) That’s $20 instead of $200 to repair the same thing. $20 for two bearings instead of $200 to replace the tensioner and pulley like you just did.

 

And it doesn’t really take any more labor to do bearings. It’ll take them 43minutes instead of 38 minutes so you’re paying an hour labor either way.

 

Ye speak the truth!

 

It's a common, standard bearing size. Available at Napa, bearing supply houses and online, no need to replace the works. 

 

I'm pretty sure Subaru uses that same size for all their idlers, don't they? I should just stock a box full, but I always just get as I need. 

 

They literally do just tap in. Most critical part is to only apply force to the outer race when installing. I usually just use the old bearing as a driver. Sometimes I'll also use a socket on top of the old bearing to pop one in quick. But you can just tap around the outer race of the old bearing too. I don't use a socket by itself because there is a chance of damaging the new seal. 

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