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#1 jkinz

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 10:08 PM

I got this thing a few years ago, traded for some 2x4s I think.. A friend got it from a dude who definitely got it from some people who do meth, but alas, it lives. We got it running, and then it sat for a long while and I decided it needs to get up and go.

 

It's a 73 super beetle body on an 86? ea82 hatch tub and running gear, suprisingly the two match up pretty well.

 

My intent is to use it in the Gambler 500 coming up this July, getting it registered and insured will probably be the most expensive and difficult part...

 

This thing has the worst fabrication, wiring, and general tweakery I have ever seen hands down, but the proof is in the pudding I guess because it does work.

 

Aside from making it much less terrible in all respects, I have one major obstacle to hurdle and that is: where do I put a radiator???

 

currently it is air cooled, and I'm sure the ea82 doesn't like that. I would like to put a rad up above the engine and still be able to have a stock hood but are there any issues with having the radiator above the engine and probably slanted? otherwise I might put one out front and add some bumper guard thing but that would look pretty awful. I guess thats the point with the gambler so maybe...

 

any advice/thoughts whatever much appreciated

 

 

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#2 DaveT

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 10:32 PM

I don't know how it can run more than a few minutes at idle with no load air cooled....  Cooling EA82s is the most important thing about keeping them running.  The OEM cooling system was just barely adequate, so start there, as anything less is asking for trouble....



#3 jkinz

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 10:58 PM

I don't think it ever did more than run for a few minutes to move it around, at least that all I've done. I can't imagine anyone could be quite so ambitious (meaning dumb) as to think you could eliminate the water cooling but I wouldn't put it past these folks.

 

I have an ea82 radiator that I think can fit above the engine but the piping will be interesting. I'm sure there are aftermarket rads I can buy but free stock parts are what I've got lying around. I'm also leaning toward a garish steel front bumper and radiator in front of the engine. or a rolls royce grill



#4 DaveT

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 11:56 PM

Yeah, start with the one you have, if it's in decent shape.  Add a couple of electric fans for when it isn't moving.



#5 el_freddo

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 03:27 AM

Easy: side mount the radiator on the side wall in the panel behind the seats/under the rear window with air ducting out the back of the vehicle, create an opening to the outside world with a grille/fins/air scoop.

Could run a radiator each side of the vehicle and use an oil cooler in one for the engine oil (if the auto cooler is up for that sort if pressure - cold starting oil pressure could be an issue with that distance to travel come to think of it...).

Dad did the same in a mk3 fastback that he dropped a rotary into. Looked mint and worked well.

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#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 10:42 AM

Seriously - I can't think of two worse things in a single space - a VW beetle and an EA82. That's...... awful. 

 

PLEASE put it out of it's misery. Rent a backhoe and leave it for archaeologists to ponder in some future which I'm not a part of. 

 

I just don't get people - WHY would you want to do this to yourself?

 

Meth was clearly involved.

 

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#7 ferp420

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 11:46 AM

I would have put tbe motor in the back somehow im in the dreaming stage of a similer build i have a vw convertable just waiting but it dose have a brand new engine in it right now and i dougbt it will ever see more than just running around the yard if it stays stock i just love looking at my vws but i can still dream it up in my head i see the trans mounted upside down but i see all kinds of issues witb that but when i get back to storage im gona grab my single range trans and see what i can do with it

#8 jkinz

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 10:23 PM

el_freddo, I like that idea, I thought of using the trunk space but was concerned about long rad hoses, though I could probably use a section of steel pipe for some of the run to avoid too much rubber hose. I'm thinking getting the cooling out of the engine bay is probably going to be easier than stuffing it up front. 

 

GD I don't think the archaeologists are going be able to recognize it as anything but a rallied out crumpled mess so I'll forgo the backhoe which I don't have. I understand your sentiment however I actually like vw beetles and ea82s because I'm poor and they are free. If I had any money I'd probably have something else but right now I have a pile of extra ea82 engines, 5mt dual ranges, and running gear. and this thing. gotta do something with it. 



#9 jkinz

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 10:47 PM

Something I thought was interesting... Apparently a Solex carburetor works on an ea82. I don't know anything about these but heard its a german thing?

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#10 Subaru Scott

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 11:06 PM

A bugs pan is self-supporting, which is why it was popular for fiberglass bodied kit cars. 

 

An EA82 "pan"... NEIN!

 

It will likely fold in half at the first speed bump.

 

And I will bet the engine has also been pre-roasted without any cooling system, and will need head gaskets at the very least.

 

Free stuff is usually more expensive than cheap stuff.



#11 Gloyale

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 11:15 PM

Something I thought was interesting... Apparently a Solex carburetor works on an ea82. I don't know anything about these but heard its a german thing?

 

that looks like a weber not a solex.  

 

Solex for VW were single barrel.



#12 jkinz

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 12:06 AM

This is what the top of the carb looks like. never seen one before

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#13 djellum

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 03:18 AM

looks like a weber or weber clone.  probably of the DFV model instead of the DGV model.  same carb but reversed in direction for the throttle and have a slightly different top plate shape.  just look up a weber DFV and you will probably see that it matches.  if it is a DFV most all of the parts are interchangeable such as jets and things that arent direction specific.

 

fab up a radiator mount behind the rear seat?  id probably do the radiator in the motor compartment and space the seat back forward a few inches so that it can draw cabin air.  electric fans on the motor side of the radiator like normal.  no idea if its doable, just dart boarding ideas.  can also do smaller radiators side and hood mounted as well



#14 el_freddo

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 06:23 AM

If you're sucking cabin air for radiator cooling you'll also be sucking in dust and other rubbish you really don't want in your cab. Fresh air would be best and also much more freeflowing than that of sucking cabin air.

As for pipes to the radiator(s), some sort of solid pipe like steam pipe would do the job. It could take some serious knocks and not split or pinch.

Cheers

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#15 jkinz

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 11:41 AM

I'm leaning toward rear or side rear radiator(s). I have a couple ea82 electric fans that will work and I'm sure I can scavenge up hoses and pipe. this things already got plenty of holes so a few more for air flow wont hurt. I guess if vanagons had the radiator in the front then a bugaru can have it in the back... I've heard of hoses popping frequently on water cooled vanagons but only in the case of having a rubber hose running the whole length of the vehicle which just sounds like a bad idea.

 

as far as the pan crumpling it's getting an internal cage so that should help.

 

thanks for all the ideas!



#16 jkinz

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 11:52 AM

from a short lookup the carb is a Solex Brosol 2 barrel for a 1.6 litre chevrolet chevette. made in Brasil, motor is either isuzu or chevy. makes sense because this engine had a chevy alternator on a piece of square tube welded to a chevy seat belt bracket and bolted on... 

 

https://articulo.mer...rosol-solex-_JM



#17 Subaru Scott

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 05:44 PM

I've used 1 1/2" EMT electrical pipe for long coolant runs. It's pretty cheap, galvanized, and available at any big box store.

 

Just clamp hose right to it. You can even use the pre-bent 90s and 45s to further cut down on long rubber hoses.



#18 jkinz

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 06:38 PM

Yup that's what I was thinking, I have access to plenty free salvage emt and the local muffler shop can do any bends I need for cheap. I have a tubing roller and a hydraulic jack style bender but I think emt might be too thin for them.



#19 jkinz

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 06:58 PM

I really need to start working on this during the day, it's so much easier to see... pretty simple, radiator with two electric fans, side ducting to shroud, hot air out the back. might even have room for a passenger.

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#20 djellum

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 04:40 AM

front mount a narrower radiator?  https://www.carthrot...om/post/cJvbjh/

 

a narrow and tall radiator could be made to match the front nose of the trunk, which could be cut off of course.

 

theres a volkswagon made into a T bucket that runs around my town.  front fenders off, front suspension extended forward, sides cutout under the trunk but still rear engined.

 

sorta like this

https://urightbrothe...sstyles_15.html



#21 jkinz

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 04:28 PM

Wow! that's a cool looking miata (jeers and bottles fly from the audience)

 

If I find a tall skinny rad in a scrap yard or car that might look cool. for right now I'll fab up a simple bracket in front of the engine for any old radiator just to get it running but I think for rally race it will end up behind the back seat, just seems to make sense. then it can still be a "sleeper" haha.



#22 jkinz

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 12:09 AM

cooling system is sorted out, next up is wiring. I ripped out the old stuff and I'll spare you the description but as I said it's the worst I've ever seen. I can figure it out myself but if any y'all have advice or tips would be much appreciated, thanks



#23 djellum

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 12:01 AM

Painless wiring kit.  all labeled with a new fusebox and connectors all ready to go.  cheaper ones have a dash ingnition, which I believe the bug has anyway?  carbed ea82 in a bug shouldnt have any major wiring concerns.  might be tricky in the heater controls or something but motor and lights and such should be basic.

 

other than that lay out the harness on the bench and start checking resistances on all the circuits.  any wire with too much resistance check the end connections and wire condition, replace as needed.  If its already cut up poorly id probably just focus on the essentials like lighting, ignition, heater controls and worry about stereos and cigarette lighters afterwards.  you can always just use separate wires for stereo stuff and keep it independent of the harness. 



#24 jkinz

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 08:04 PM

Thanks djellum I was going to use the old harness as a reference, which I still can for individual wires but it was a hacked up mess so I was going to dig in and start from scratch with what materials I have and a service manual. This is going to be very minimal on the creature comforts, just need a running engine and simple wiring.

 

I really like the idea of painless kit since I've never used one before and they seem really nice. depends on the price I guess.

 

It looks like a universal CSI harness might be what I'm looking for? P/n 30830

Or maybe a 50005 10 circuit harness with switch panel since I need those anyway?


Edited by jkinz, 25 April 2018 - 08:05 PM.


#25 jkinz

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 04:26 PM

Several people think the solex carburetor is likely junk and after removing it I can say with my very limited knowledge that is probably the case. Unfortunately I traded away all of my ea82 carbs and would be interested in a weber but haven't come up on anything cheap.

 

I believe I have everything for a full SPFI setup but that seems like a bad idea from the get go. fuel injection on my 87 GL has always treated me great but in this application may not be worth the work.

 

I'll read up on Loyale 2.7 Turbo's weber post and in the meantime looking for a used 32/36....






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