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I went for a long test ride, about 50-60 miles, uphill and down.


20 or so miles into it, turned up hill on freeway, set CC to 62 mph, At turnoff up the hill, no issues.  Engine like a watch, no heat, noise, leakage.. But when I got off freeway, engine immediatly started to overheat.  Pulled into gas station, bought a coke, let engine cool. No visable distress under hood, all secure and dry..all visable belts brand new..20 mins, later, tried again, still pretty hot, but got to downhill portion of my loop, engine started to overheat again going down steep hill using brakes more than engine.  Stopped and cooled off some more at bottom, started up other side in full cringe.


Up hill under power, engine cools right down, no issues 'till top, turned off on level ground, engine overheats again...


I'm thinking, probably have old style water pump, vanes so worn I have to have 2K rpm on the clock to move enough water to cool the engine, means have to replace water pump w/new style pump, change belts, idlers tentioners, blah & etc.  So I try to refresh memory of what to do by looking it up on You Tube, find a rant from a fellow who bought a Gates kit, found it had Chinese bearing is some pulleys, never mind Japanese OEM parts listed on box.  Guy complaint to Gates and Rockauto, both blew him off.  


Had a similar problem with Rockauto couple of years a go, bought a bearing from them.  They list parts from multiple sources, from cheap to expensive, I selected Timken OEM bearing in Timken box.  When the box got here got here, it had a Japanese bearing in a Timken box, that I could have selected instead of more expensive Timken.  Complained to Timken, they suggested I was lying about that, 'cause was impossible, complained to Rockauto, got blown off.


So, if you buy anything from Rockauto with a bearing in it, check for undocumented Chinese stuff inside.  I'm done with Gates, they used to be a quality leader, but substituting Chinese stuff is unacceptable abandonment of quality control. Now I wonder where their belts are made.  I don't buy bearings from Rockauto any more, either.


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1. Overheating. It’s not the water pump. Or rather - thats so rare on subarus that if you’re not really familiar with subarus and have seen it before or know this car sat in hurricane flooded seawater for 3 weeks, then it’s something else.

 

A. Check coolant level.

B. Make sure it’s properly bled of air.

C. Check fans and tstat and rad cap

 

2. Rockauto - one personal issue is anecdotal. If you refused to shop at every auto parts store that has treated someone wrong or made a poor decision then you have no businesses to shop at. They’ve all made mistakes. Do you want me to list every store I’ve had issues with so you can cross them off your list? Of course not. You’re not actually doing yourself but want others to do.

 

Rockauto is not necessarily to blame specifically, we would need to see all the data (receipt, links, email correspondence, etc) as interpretations and assumptions can be misunderstood.

 

Also They are just a distributor like any other auto parts store. They acquire parts and resell them.

 

Now - clearly they have a different business model - Their system and parts acquisition varies somewhat and may have a few more speed bumps than other stores but what do you expect for some of the best prices on the Internet?

 

It’s just like a used car - it’s cheaper but no (or less) warranty and more issues statically. Rockauto is a great fit and excellent low cost resource, but don’t expect Penthouse suite perfection.

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I bought this car in four pieces, a rolling chassis, an engine, and 2 bad transmissions.  over the years, i managed to buy another 3 bad transmissions, and one that just plain didn't bolt up.  About a month ago, a friend of mine bought a parts car, for the engine, drove it a couple hundred miles home, I got he trans, and it works fine so far.

Before the engine was installed, I pulled the intake, replaced both knock sensors, both check valves, and all the hoses under the manifold, with blue silicon hose. Everything rubber under the hood, replaced with new, all hoses belts, etc.    Did not replace timing belt, and other stuff, 'cause it looked new.  Did replace thermostat, bypass hose, and rad cap with new Subaru parts, new green coolant. Coolant purged and burped.   Drove about to satisfy self that engine didn't leak, replaced oil with Rotella T6 synthetic, & new oil filter. One rad fan, NG, replaces and checked function.

 

Rockauto. I bought the expensive part, got the cheap stuff.  Nevermore. Now I get Subaru stuff from Subaru.  Don't much care about Rockauto excuse.. Just putting out there my personal experience,  You can go watch the guy on You Tube, judge for yourself  I'ts not about mistakes or mistreatment, it's about lying about the product and refusing to make good.  If that suits you, good luck..

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Heater core?  Hmm.. Cars climate control system works a treat, but lately AC performance most prominent.  I will check heater core 1st opportunity..

I've recently discovered that the SVX water pump came in 2 flavors, early and late.  The early one was a windmill type, the later a waterwheel type.  I'm thinking I've got a worn early style pump, but thats just speculation for the time being.

 

I posted a question about  Bilstein shocks for the SVX.  No such animal. BUT, there are Bilsteins available for the WRX , and WRX struts can be fiddled onto an SVX, but its spendy as hell, near $500/corner for WRX Bilsteins on your SVX..  I wonder if plain ol' WRX suspension bits would be an upgrade.  The SVX is quite porky, I wonder if the stock SVX springs might not be stiffer than WRX stuff.  Anybody know?  My thinking is that WRX struts gotta be better than 25 year old stock SVX struts..

 

Idosubaru has a point about Rockauto.  They are box movers, very likely have no idea whats actually in the box. But by now, they have to know they are moving counterfeit parts.  Buyer beware..

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If the heater core is blocked internally (tap water could cause the rows to build up calcium, so def. possible) you could probably bypass it with a " U " section of heater hose from the engine in/outlet and see if any difference. Usually easier to at least try something like that before digging into where ever they hid the heater core, especially if it's not bad. Bypassing can also help in a pinch if you ever get coolant leaks into the car, unless Subaru did something wonky and none of this applies? After owning a Saab, I learned to never assume. Cars where the heater core circuit isn't as important, you can pinch the hose in an emergency. If bypassing helps, at least in CA it won't be detrimental not having heat for awhile.

 

With your struts, as mentioned in another thread, just replacing with new struts vs. very old oem will make a difference. Struts are cheap enough it's worth trying and THEN consider a spring upgrade. Worse case, you might have to search for springs from another car that fit the factory strut assembly, but knowing spring rates is important. Any factory rubber bushings, etc. that are day one from the car, should be replaced. Stiffer sway bars firm up handling too.

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I posted a question about  Bilstein shocks for the SVX.  No such animal. BUT, there are Bilsteins available for the WRX , and WRX struts can be fiddled onto an SVX, but its spendy as hell, near $500/corner for WRX Bilsteins on your SVX..  I wonder if plain ol' WRX suspension bits would be an upgrade.  The SVX is quite porky, I wonder if the stock SVX springs might not be stiffer than WRX stuff.  Anybody know?  My thinking is that WRX struts gotta be better than 25 year old stock SVX struts..

On the cooling many replace the radiator for a thicker/higher capacity radiator. Don't know if that would help you are not. Mine has an aftermarket AMR aluminum radiator. 

 

 

 

The problem with stock SVX struts is none have been made in years. So any new ones you find will be well over a decade old. More like 15 or more years old. Some owners have bought new factory struts only to have them fail in less than a year, I am puzzled that you feel the stock springs and struts ride too hard. All complaints I have seen have been for too soft, yours may be the first. Check your struts/s[rings and make sure they are factory. Are those Douglas tires old and hard as a brick? Have 50# off air in them?  The MotoGP springs on mine have a spring rate of 24% stiffer and all my tires are over inflated by several pounds. I have no complaints on the ride and none that have ridden in mine have complained. I think you have something else going on. 

 

The WRX/STI struts can be made to fit. I think you need the 04-06 STI ones. Your car will be lowered from that change. Guessing, but with the pedigree of a STI I would think the spring rate would be stiffer. 

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  • 8 months later...

I have since found out that Subaru has made a new run of OEM replacement struts. Incase anyone wanted to know that. But for the price I would buy Gecko coilovers. Several people have installed them and so far as I know, everyone that has them have been happy with them.

 

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