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Posted 28 June 2004 - 12:02 AM
I'm working on a well used 90 Loyale Turbo. Installed a used (low mileage) motor from Japan. Got everything swapped between the two so it will run. Had it out on the road and everything working fine for about 3 miles and then it seemed to run short of gas, it would idle and then a short burst of power and back to idle. It finaly quit. I could start it then it would die, now it it won't start. Jumperd the fuel pump, it works but no 12v back there. Been two days looking for the fuel pump relay,no find, can see it on some wiring diagrams. Fuse OK. What am I missing? Thanks for any help
Posted 28 June 2004 - 12:21 AM
Are there any error codes showing on the ECU?.. is there a light at all?
And one more thing.. this may sound really weird... check your horn fuse
PS.. welcome to the board.. we'll get you fixed up in no time. Worst case is you might have to have one of the WA or OR boys come help you out... Theres lots of them here.
Posted 28 June 2004 - 12:38 AM
I might also add, was the fuel filter changed?
Doh!.. leave it to me to miss the obvious.. Thankfully the Robs of the world are there as a backstop:)
Posted 28 June 2004 - 09:04 AM
Posted 28 June 2004 - 10:05 AM
I don't think there is a seperate Fuel pump control unit on EA82 cars. Its all controlled by the ECU(ECM) in combination with the distributor.. if the distributor isn't turning, the fuel pump will only run for about 1.5 seconds.. long enough to pressurize the system.. That may be why you are not seeing power at the fuel pump. Probably not, but possibly.
The manual you have isn't very useful for this stuff on a turbo car (assuming its the same haynes manual I have).. Most of the haynes manual are more geared toward EA81 stuff.
Under the dash, there are 2 green connectors, plug them in and turn on the key. you should hear the fuel pump cycle on and off in 1.5 second intervals with those plugs connnected. If there are active error codes, they will also display on the small LED on the front of the ECU at that point.
Posted 28 June 2004 - 10:08 AM
the distributor sends a signalt to the ecu for the fuel pump to operate while its spinning. there are also green test mode clips under the dash, plug them in, and the fuel pump should cycle on and off when the key is in RUN pos.
Posted 28 June 2004 - 12:29 PM
I plugged the green connectors together. I run a wire from the hot side of the pump to a 12v light that I had for other testing, to the front seat area, so I can tell when the pump is on,turned key to run the light blinked on & off like you said it should, Checked to be sure that the pump was actualy running, started the motor, it ran (lights stayed on) till it run out of gas and then went back to on & off again. I could hear the relay working so it is OK. Did this several times with same results. Filter seems to be handling enough gas to run my 427 SS so it must be the pump that can't keep up, Huh?
Posted 28 June 2004 - 12:36 PM
the haynes book will have the testing procedure and the resistance values for this sensor. if the sensor is out of whack, the car will start and run while cold, but onece it warms up and goes into open loop mode, it will throw off the fuel metering.
sounds like the car started and ran till it warmed up? how long does it run before it dies? somtimes somply cleaning the connector itself can cure the problem
but you may consider replacing the sensor anyway for safe measure, they should be 17 bucks or so, and may be listed as a nissan part(as was alleyboy's)
somebody around here should have a part number for the ecu thermo sensor
Posted 28 June 2004 - 01:12 PM
Posted 28 June 2004 - 02:19 PM
Two ideas for ya.... I believe that there is a second fuel filter under the car near the pump. And, I'd tee in a pressure gauge where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail, the book should give you a minimum spec.
Posted 28 June 2004 - 03:08 PM
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