Final plugs/wires revisited

[rugbyben]

I know this topic has been beat to death on this message board. That is why i want to revisit it one final time. People seem to feel very strongly about their plugs and wires, so it has been difficult for me to search the old posts and find an actual answer.

 

Now please lets try to be civil, and each give a brief description of what plugs and or wires we use, and why. please include how you gap them, and what motor you have

 

I am mainly concerned with what to use for my '00 2.2L non turbo. but all others are welcome to share.

[Commuter]

Ok, I'll bite and reply.

 

Plugs - NGK are typically favored / recommended. I don't know if your car specs platinum or not. That is up to you really. Some prefer copper, some prefer platinum. Some are trying the Iridium with mixed results (usually favorable I'd say). As for other brands, you'll find a range of opinions / comments / experience. It seems to be particularly hit and miss with Bosch. Personally, I'm running TorqueMaster plugs. A different animal in terms of plugs. Works well. I've had no issue in roughly 200k kms. They were out briefly when engine work was done. I seemed to get just a 'hint' more when they went back in. I bought them as part of my fight against the carbon issue with my engine (97 OB). I think it has helped, but I really don't have a way to tell.

 

Wires - I had no trouble with the OEM ones, but I chose to put Magnecor (8.5mm) wires on a few years ago. I haven't had any issue personally. They are a quality piece of work. From everything I've read, the OEM ones are very decent. Some opt for NGK wires as well and they seem to be fine. It's not a problem area with our cars from what I know.

Commuter

[hohieu]

I run the OEM NGK copper plugs in my car w/o any problems. Even if you run the platinums, you're going to have to pop them off every 30K miles to check the gaps anyway. NGK copper plugs are less than $2, and I have not had any ignition issues with them.

[tracedog67]

What is the model # of the $2 NGK copper plugs you are using? When the autoparts stores check for NGK plugs this one does not come up.

 

 

thanks

 

Tdog

'97 OBW 225k miles

HG @ 191k

[hohieu]

What is the model # of the $2 NGK copper plugs you are using? When the autoparts stores check for NGK plugs this one does not come up.

Hi Ben,

It's a BKR6E-11; the standard plugs are BKR5E-11, which are slightly hotter, but www.1stsubaruparts.com (click on OEM accessories) sent me the former with a tune-up kit that also inlcuded oil, air, + fuel filters - all for $38.95 plus s+h. The 1st owner of my Forester had the standard (?) Champion plugs in there for over 70K miles - elctrodes were worn such that the gap was twice that of specificed gap! Still, I did not notice any ignition problems with the old plugs nor any real power gain after popping in the new NGKs - perhaps better mileage and some piece of mind.

 

I have a Phase II engine. They list two different kits for the legacy 2.5 L, and I imagine that Phase I + II 2.5 engines run different plugs and that the plugs differentiate the two kits and account for the price difference. The kit for a 97 OBW is $66.95 so the standard plugs in your car must be platinum.

 

Alternatively, you can also check out www.expressautoparts.com - free s+h for orders > $50.

[Setright]

Well, I have have good results using Bosch, single electrode, "ytrium plus".

 

 

I think you should stay away from all the "wonder plugs", like multiple electrode Bosch and Iridium tipped Denso and NGK.

 

Normal plugs are cheaper, and work just as well, only they need replacing more often. I consider this a plus, since removing the old plugs gives you a good insight into how your engine is doing.

[powderhound]

I've had splitfires in mine for 90K. They work perfectly fine.

[Subie Gal]

I use only O.E. (even on my race car)

 

why? designed/engineered for the car and GOOD quality (NGK)

 

 

anything else is a waste of money. my $.02

Jamie

[rallyruss]

NGK plugs and wires. its some of the best stuff and its affordable.

 

I cant belive they still sell s*#tfires. when I used to work at a parts store we had tons of complaints on them.

 

you cant go wrong with OE stuff either.

[cookie]

I used to change stuff like this for High performance and constantly mess with it to get a couple of more horse power.

These cars are already running extremely sophisticated equipment.

Computer controlled fuel injection, high performance ignition, overhead cams.

This was Formula 1 stuff a few years ago.

My Forester is pretty peppy for a little 2.5 phone booth even though it won't be setting any records soon.

In the right situation it can be more fun to drive than my BMW M Roadster.

I like to keep the engine stock so that it is easy to maintain and reliable for everyday driving.

The factory engineers had a lot more time and money to test parts than I do.

Sometimes they don't get it right and then you have to seek a solution like Blitz has on his knock sensors.

If it ain't broke..........

[Setright]

Peugeot built an overhead cam, 4 valve per cylinder engine in 1903. Hardly F1.

 

In fact, in 1901, Daimler was developing a throttle-less engine, intake charge controlled by varying the valve lift and timing. A hundred years later and BMW has been toting this as a new idea.

 

There truly is nothing new under the sun! :-)