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I'm in trouble, broke the upper bolt for thermostat cover
Posted 29 June 2004 - 11:07 PM
Anyways, I need some advices.
Thanks so much
Posted 29 June 2004 - 11:28 PM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:01 AM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:18 AM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:33 AM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:34 AM
a blown head gasket... when mine was blown exhaust gases got into the coolant stream and made it super hot. if I wasnt moving I had to turn off the car and I had to run the heater at all times.
Posted 30 June 2004 - 02:35 AM
Flowmasthered87GL: I do think that is another cause of overheating. One time before I got my water pump fixed, I overheated so bad that engine wouldn't start and had to call up my friend to tow it up to the shop. When I got new water pump installed, and drove around for awhile, from the exhaust, I smelled something sweet, and my friend told me I might have blown HG.
Here is another question. ( sorry for asking so many questions) I have an extra engine, hydrualic lifter that is. Current engine isn't, I'm planning to rebuild and put mods on the hydrualic lifter engine, but I'm not sure when it will done, probably two to three month from now. Should I get new HG for current engine, or just drive it around until rebuilding is done?
If you guys think I should get new HG, will it be okay if it is from ebay?
I know those aren't great, but it will only be temporary solution, so I don't think I need those expansive OEM or OEM equivilant
Posted 30 June 2004 - 03:09 AM
Also, with the penetrating oil, spray it on, and let it sit for 5-0 minutes before you try to loosen the bolt, as it will need time to penetrate. If you just spray it on, it won't have time to penetrate and loosen the bolt.
The torch thing, another method that works good is to heat up the bolt red hot, this will cause it to expand, and (hopefully) crush and loosen the gunk in the threads, then when it fully cools down, sometimes they will come out by hand. Not sure how well it works on steel bolts in an aluminum block, but it works great on oil gallery plugs on a cast iron V8 block..
Posted 30 June 2004 - 04:41 AM
I've bought from them several times and had good experiences.
Carefully check out your intake manifold gaskets, and your carb base gaskets - they leak often, causeing a loss of coolant and cooling system pressure.
I blew a heater hose on my Brat shortly after doing the HG's on it. The Fel-Pro gaskets held. I lost EVERY drop of coolant, the guage pegged, and it was pinging so badly that I couldn't go over 35 MPH. It was 90 degrees that day, and I drove about 2 miles with NO coolant. If you had your engine so hot it wouldn't run then it's probably toast. Either the HG's are blown or the heads are cracked. I would lay money on it.....
As for your intake manifold - try to get it off, but take your time. If you can't get the bolts out it's better to cut the heads off them and slip the manifold off the bolts. This way you can get some penetrating oil (not WD40 - something like PB Blaster) on there. Let it sit for a day or two and spray it down several times a day. Nothing good will come of a broken intake bolt, and it's better to cut the heads off than try to remove them as they always seem to break off nearly flush with the head. At least if you cut the heads off and slip the manifold off, you will be able to use vise-grips to turn them out once the penetrating oil has got them loose.
Get another manifold if you can. I have one you could have for free but I'm in OR....
Posted 30 June 2004 - 08:35 AM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 08:42 AM
You got my vote
while you still have a nug of bolt hanging out, try heat + vise grips method. Or welding a nut to what's left. If you shear that off, then try the easy-out method. Note: I have had almost no luck with easy-outs, and i will try pretty much any other method before i resort to using them.
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:07 PM
To date, this has worked every single time. Then i run a tap down in it to clean it up, and I'm on my way.
Posted 30 June 2004 - 12:45 PM
on the thermostat housing
my solution was to drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole down the center of the offending bolt then follow it up with a bit that would allow me to retap the hole to the next size up then drilled the hole in the top part of the thermostat housing to take the bigger bolt
but then again there is enough metal to do that trick on a chevy 2.8 i am not sure if you have that option
if not try the 1/8 pilot hole as straight as you can and then get a bit that is on-2 sizes smaller than the broken bolt drill out the center and u can sometimes use a small punch to fold the left over bolt into the area you just drilled and take it out that way
and usually leave the threads in the metal still fairly good
just my .0000000002 cents:) good luck
Posted 30 June 2004 - 01:12 PM
Ace hardware and True Values around here carry stainless steel bolts that make excellent replacements for those bolts; no rust, no problems. I still use antiseize as it makes them come out that much easier when its time, although its hardly necessary with stainless.
If I want to get replacement bolts, how do I determine the length of the original bolt when it is broken off?
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