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Retieved Error Codes-now what?


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I followed Josh's error code retrieval procedure, reset the ecu, and am getting occasional check engine lights, error codes 22 and 35 keep showing up. One is a knock sensor code, another is some kind of cannister valve code. Now what? where are these guys and how expensive are they. Is on the result of another? Car runs fine, occasionally I get a shudder. The tranny seems to be "slipping" when engageing R or D if the car sits for a while. I figure this is gonna be a 1500 repair, at least. How do I fix the 22 and 35 codes. THANKS

 

Car is a 93 awd auto legacy wagon.

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The canister purge solenoid is part of the evap emission system. It sits under the pass. side intake runners. it's about 100 bucks, and is something you should be able to replace yourself if you have a little mechanicing skills.

pic

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG

 

this pic, it's the sensor with the blue connector.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG

 

the knock sensor is about 60 bucks...maybe less I think. The old sensors tended to crack and give you CEL and other issues. The new sensor has a white connector. Again, it's not overly difficult to replace if you have some mechanic skills

 

pic

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

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is it coincidence that both would act up at the same time? the car runs fine, with the check engine light popiping on and off a couple times a week. Can I just drive till it gets worse? will they get worse? thanks agiain. I'm looking at a tranny (automatic) rebuild this month, so $$$ is at a premium.

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  • 3 weeks later...

update, got the new knock sensor, it's making goog tight contact, STILL GETTING the darn 22 & 35 error codes, well there goes an easy 50 bucks including shipping........any ideas out there, I'm probably just going to ignore the codes. Can the purge valve be cleaned with carb cleaner or is ait an electrical valve?

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Have you tried to clear the codes? Have you run the car in D-check mode with the green connector, and/or tried to clear the codes by connecting both the black and green connectors?

 

If you've done all that correctly and the codes are still there, I would check your wiring.

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i cleared them by connecting the black wires and driving till they flash etc. didn't do the d mode thing because I don't have whatever they need for the "flight test"

huh? the black connectors are not the clear ECU connectors. They are only the read mode connectors. You need to find the green connectors to do the d check, and to clear the codes.

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