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LSD conversion..How do?


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18 replies to this topic

#1 subynut

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 07:01 PM

Just got my LSD rear diff from the sucker king (john) and I need some info on how to do the conversion. I did a search on lsd conversion and just got people that have done it. Has anybody done a writeup on this conversion? They say it's a just a bolt up with a little grinding. Where do I need to grind? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

#2 subiemech85

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 07:13 PM

read the OLD repair manual

#3 Craven

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 08:57 PM

Just got my LSD rear diff from the sucker king (john) and I need some info on how to do the conversion. I did a search on lsd conversion and just got people that have done it. Has anybody done a writeup on this conversion? They say it's a just a bolt up with a little grinding. Where do I need to grind? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

http://usmb.net/repa...90.42964025.art

#4 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 09:13 PM

That was a write-up done by a Datsun 510 owner. It was submitted and edited by Ken (QMan). We could use a better article, but the one in the old USRM does a pretty good job of explaining the task.

From what ive heard, its not that easy.

-Brian

#5 subynut

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 10:11 PM

Ok, that helps. Guess I'll just hafta find out. Just finished pulling out the open diff out of the car. Operation: LSD hehehehe

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 10:17 PM

If you are going lifted, might I sugest you consider a welded diff.... the Subaru LSD's weren't really designed for an off-road type vehicle, and tend to break loose too easily with big tires.... plus a welded diff is much cheaper.....

GD

#7 subynut

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Posted 24 July 2004 - 10:48 PM

Lift is a possibility, but for now, I am sticking with my 13"ers. Besides, pullin' and puttin' a cv shaft just for 20 or 30 minutes of off roading is too much work for me. I've done quite well with the open diff so far, and the LSD will deffinitly help. It's not a locker or welded diff, but for my daily driver, it gives me the best of both worlds. However, when I get stuck with one front tire in the air and the rear bumper holdin' the rear, it's inevible I will need a tug. open, lsd,or welded rear wont help. If I do make this my off roader, it will go on a frame with solid axels. The unibody and CVs are just not designed for that kind of abuse.

#8 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 25 July 2004 - 01:11 AM

With minor off-roading the LSD will be a world of difference. The welded diff is much better, but alot higher maitenance. And if your rig is a trail/get to work rig, then the LSD will make it alot easier for you.

Lifted or not.

-Brian

#9 subynut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 01:10 AM

Ok, I was reading the FAQ on how to pull the stub axels out and it said I needed a no. 10 torx socket. Went to Home Depot, Sears, and AutoZone and nobody has such a thing! Will try Pep Boys, and Napa tomarrow. Any other places I could try? Maybe I'll just hafta track down a Snap-On tools truck and pick up one there, yes? This project is quite intristing. Never had a diff apart B4. Cool stuff!

#10 Craven

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 01:27 AM

Ok, I was reading the FAQ on how to pull the stub axels out and it said I needed a no. 10 torx socket. Went to Home Depot, Sears, and AutoZone and nobody has such a thing! Will try Pep Boys, and Napa tomarrow. Any other places I could try? Maybe I'll just hafta track down a Snap-On tools truck and pick up one there, yes? This project is quite intristing. Never had a diff apart B4. Cool stuff!

Here are few more options
SK 1/4" Dr Deep Female E10 TORX Socket pn #44960 $11.25
and
Matco 1/4 X E10 RECESS TORX SOCKET
Part#: A8XRA Price: $8.25
I got the SK had to order it through a auto parts store that sold SK tools.

#11 subynut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 11:35 AM

Thanks! Will C if any of the autoparts stores have such a thing.

#12 subynut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 01:24 PM

Bummer hafta goto Tucson. Figures. Oh Twell. R there any other odd tools I might need?

#13 VaporTrail

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 01:29 PM

I ordered my tool on-line/phone from snap-on early in the morning, and it arrived the next day. no traveling required :)

might possibly need a grinder. there has been some variance on this. when I did mine, I ground the required spots a little, then checked the clearances to put it in, and It appeared that I would not have needed to don any grinding at all to get it in.

I just followed the directions here. (Old USRM)

#14 subynut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 06:17 PM

Yup, dat's what I'm following. Just got back from Tucson. Picked up the socket and also wondered over to the dealership and ordered 4 more t-stats. Boy, those new Legacys are hot! Me WANT!!! Anyways....tried to turn that torx bolt and I snapped the 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor! Guess that 15" breaker bar added too much torque for that little adaptor. :banghead: Now what? Also, are those bolts LH threaded? If not, they are STUCK in there good.:-\

[hijack]
BTW Mick, did U get me PM a while ago abouts me sticker order?
[/hijack]

#15 VaporTrail

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 08:41 PM

Ted,
yeah, and got the check today....

#16 Craven

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 09:22 PM

Yup, dat's what I'm following. Just got back from Tucson. Picked up the socket and also wondered over to the dealership and ordered 4 more t-stats. Boy, those new Legacys are hot! Me WANT!!! Anyways....tried to turn that torx bolt and I snapped the 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor! Guess that 15" breaker bar added too much torque for that little adaptor. :banghead: Now what? Also, are those bolts LH threaded? If not, they are STUCK in there good.:-\

[hijack]
BTW Mick, did U get me PM a while ago abouts me sticker order?
[/hijack]

Right hand threads. I thought the same thing when they didn't break loose at first. I used a 1/4" drive Craftsman rachet and banged it a few times with a hammer.
Craven

#17 VaporTrail

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 09:41 PM

it's a trick sometimes to get 'em off. I've snapped off just the torx head of the bolt, and left the base (rounded) of the head. Like 3 or 4 times. very drustrating, because then it's either drill out the hardened bolt head, or use a cut-off tool to slice through the stub and bolt. then hope you can salvage at least 2 stubs for the conversion :)

#18 subynut

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Posted 27 July 2004 - 11:16 PM

it's a trick sometimes to get 'em off. I've snapped off just the torx head of the bolt, and left the base (rounded) of the head. Like 3 or 4 times. very drustrating, because then it's either drill out the hardened bolt head, or use a cut-off tool to slice through the stub and bolt. then hope you can salvage at least 2 stubs for the conversion :)

eeeeeeee.........Guess I'll keep trying with the gentle yet firm process.

[hijack]

Ted, yeah, and got the check today....

cool
[/hijack]

Boy, by the time I'm done with the LSD project, the stickers, and me new engine from CCR I'll have a completely different Suby! Wooo HOO!!!:banana:



ok, back to the workbench.........

#19 subynut

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Posted 28 July 2004 - 01:22 AM

OK. I got the stub axels off. Took a little persuation, but I got'em. Guess the Stanley adaptor is stronger than the Durabuilt adaptor, yes? LSD is out of the diff and so is the open diff. Strange thing was the open diff was easier to take apart than the LSD. Interisting......Next step: how do I get those bolts off so I can swap ring gears? Guess I'll hafta pull out the impact gun and pick up some metric impact sockets. Seeing how the gun only came with a few SAE sockets.:-\ Heading 4 bed now and will tackle the next part tomorrow after work.




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