Front struts replacement

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I finally replaces the front struts and springs on my car. Everything went good except for the spring compression tool I borowed at Canadian Tire. Very safe tool but a little too short in my opinion. I had to pre compress the spring with a wood clamp to be able to get the compressor on right. Lost a lot of time with that.

I used new bolts including the adjusting bolt that I replaced exactly like the old one was (mark on the strut and reference bars on the bolt's head). I will eventually get an alignment when I do the rear ones (next week) but the car handles perfectly for now.

I did not have bounce yet but the ride was very harsh. It's a charm now. Firm and stable but a lot smoother.

Thanks to every one on this board that contributed info. Especially the one about cutting the strut tab for the brake hose. Was very helpfull in cutting time and hassle.

I fastened everything with my torque wrench except the piston rod top bolt that I dif by feel: I had to make and use a makeshift tool to be able to hold the rod still with an hex wrench while torquing the bolt.

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What about the rear ones?

Just had a look and the brake line setup seems to be different from front.

In front it's just the ruber brake hose that goes thru the metal tab on the strut leg.

In the rear, it's a rigid steel line on the inside of the tab and a flexible rubber hose on the outside.

Any caveats tackling the rear struts?

[99obw]

Glad it went well for you.

 

I removed the brake lines and passed them through the new struts, so I can't comment on cutting the bracket. I marked the alignment of the strut mounts, spring seats, springs, and struts before dissasembly with a paint marker. I think that made it a little easier to get everything back together correctly. I used all of the old nuts but put some medium loctite on them when reassembling.

 

Question: Did you replace the strut mounts? What condition were your old ones in? I am debating whether or not to replace the springs and strut mounts when I do the front struts.

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I renewed everything except the protective bellow that was still usable.

I did that on the advice of a mech I trust at the dealer.

Everything on top was quite rusty. The tower itself (part of the car) was not touched by rust happily. It's probable that the support could have been reused with a regreasing of the bearing but the spring cap that is just under it was rusted thru. Since I expect to keep the car for at least 5 more years, I thought that the expense was reasonnable.

Do the rigig brake line on the inside part of the holding tab at the rear constitute a special problem?

[99obw]

Thanks for the info. My experience tells me to change everything, but I am a little hesitant to put that much money into the car, as I suspect it may not have more than a year or two left in it at 30k miles a year. I will do it properly though.

 

Do the rigig brake line on the inside part of the holding tab at the rear constitute a special problem?

I guess I don't understand your question.