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3 replies to this topic

#1 WJM

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Posted 08 August 2004 - 04:16 PM

So....after the ultra low'n'stiff setup...the rear axles were at a pretty extreme angle...that allowed the original/already well aged and half way dry rotted CV/DOJ boots to split open and tear them selves loose from their factory home. Another boot simply slipped off the DOJ...and only one boot remained at home. So...grease everywhere. I left it this way with the enxt set up....the Carrera v1.0, and then up to now with carrera v1.1...so...ive decided to do something about it seeing as they might start do destoy themselves soon with the grease supply leaving more and more each day.

So....part RX...rear LSD and two good axles.

the GL-10 was apart in 10~15 mins. Easy peasy, no problem. The diff was off the RX in no time, and the LR axle. RR refused to come off.

Beat with hammer...no. Soak with penetrating oil (PB Blastwe)...No. take off wheel/tire and caliper...beat with LONG HEAVY SOLID IRON rod...no. Beat top RR corner of RX roof, no. beat CV again and again. No. RR quater some and discover the insides of the whole car is rusted out. NO! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Ok...I'll take it out with the stub and all. At this point I'd spend an hour beating on it. Ok...nut off....hub/rotor off, less than 30 seconds that was done. Ok...well, beat stub out. Ok, out. Now what? So for the enxt 2~3 hrs, my dad and I spend soaking it with PB blaster, prying on it, beating on it, sledging at it...heating it...PB it....etc etc...FINALLY...it started to budge off of the stub. 1 MM at a time...at a time being about 5 minutes of beating it off the stub with a sledge wnad wedge adn the stub part in a vice...at this point the half shaft was separated from the CV...so i had more work ahead of me to put that back together. About 20 minutes later...PING...it popped off and landed. "Houston, the stubbern as hell RR CV joint has landed....thats one small step for WJM...one giant leap of aggrivation relieved."

so then...15 minutes later...the diff and axles were under the GL-10 installed properly.

about 4 hours wasted due to two parts being rusted together. and i STILL have to pull the LF axle and service the DOJ. :banghead: Its gonna get dark soon.... :mad:

So...lesson for today....what IS the lesson????

does anyone HAVE a lesson on how to go about that more properly and have it done faster?

EDIT: Oh and the battery in the other RX is dead now....

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 August 2004 - 04:23 PM

What I do, is beat them for a bit - 10-15 minutes. If they don't move, then I do what you did - push the stub through. Then I dissasemble the joint, pop the grease seal out of the bottom of the cup, and beat it out from that side... still takes a while, and often I just go to the JY and get another stub and a cup. They don't charge much for them - $5 or so.

Torch can work too if you have one - heat up the cup, and before the stub has a chance to equalize in temp, beat on it. That will often break the rust up enough to get them moving.

GD

#3 subusolo2nut

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Posted 08 August 2004 - 05:04 PM

Well--when it gets too tuff-----about 1 lb of C-4 & a ultra-high speed camera:lol:

Really--we use a product called Rost-Off Ice (Wurth Product from Germany)--it rapid-cools the part & uses a low-temp lube--works real well to loosen rusted-solid parts.:)

#4 baccaruda

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Posted 08 August 2004 - 05:25 PM

i put anti sieze on the stubs before i put the axle back on :D

that doesn't help if it's your first time servicing a particular stub though. when i put the lsd from my rx in my wagon, i went thru the same thing. i had to take the differential and axle to a garage (at 4pm on a saturday at that, which means that first i had to FIND a garage open at 4pm on a saturday!) and we vised the LSD and the mech. used an air chisel and I had a prybar on the other side.. trashed the stub on the LSD but i just swapped one from the open diff when i got back home. aargh!




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