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Hi Folks, it's been a while.

 

My poor little 91 has been really working hard for me, and racking up the miles. Lately I noticed that I'm using more oil in between changes, about 2-3 quarts each time. I have a feeling my rings are going bad (I was flogging it pretty hard on some windy roads for a while), but I don't have the time right now to rebuild an engine. Replacement is easy enough, but I don't have the $$ for a new engine right now (blasted college). I thought of two things:

 

1. Run a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50. This is an IDEA and I have not done it, mostly because I know that newer engines need to run a thinner oil in the first place. Would this make my situation worse???

 

2. Use Engine Restore. A friend reccomended this stuff, and I like it because it's not the mild "engine honey" solution. My only worry is that it has particulate matter suspended in the fluid, and it's supposed to "bind" to your cracks and pits, and restore compression. I'm sorry, but "bind" is not a good word to combine with engine.

 

Any other ideas, thoughts, rants?

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well ... anything that binds to your "cracks.. and pits..." prolly is not good in general .. regardless of whats its intended use in

 

 

now that i have make the bad joke... just about any "engine fixit in a bottle" outside of injector cleaner... usually does more harm than good

but thats just from what i know..

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As far as the thicker oil route, I suggest a 15w-40 HDEO, such as Pennzoil Long Life. Cheap and no mixing required. That's what I run in my oil burning 1977 John Deere garden tractor.

 

As far as additives, I suggest Auto-Rx. It's supposed to clean up the rings and condition the seals, reducing oil consumption.

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I used that Engine Restore when I first got my Legacy, but my engine is in such a good state of tune, it did no good. It didn't harm anything, at least as far as I can tell, so in your situation, I'd actually say give it a shot.

 

I'd run 20W50 anyway. With that many miles, the oil seals are finally starting to age, and your engine bearings might be pushing the service limit on clearances.

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Maybe a dumb question, but are you absolutely sure you are burning the oil as opposed to leaking out of the oil seals? At 195,000, my 93 Legacy was past due for a new timing belt and the oil seals were also leaking like a seive. Like you, I was going through 2 - 3 quarts between changes. The leaking oil would drip down on the exhaust pipes and smoke badly. In fact, I drove up to my brother-in-law's house one day and he thought my car was on fire! Then I had my belt replaced and had the oil seals replaced at the same time. Now, at over 200,000 miles, I don't use any oil between 3,000 mile changes.

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Auto-Rx

 

Visit: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5

 

Use the board's search engine to pull up posts on the product Auto-Rx. It's amazing the number of people who thought they had worn rings be surprized to find out they had basically had a stuck, coked-up ring pack. At least 10 gazillion (or thereabouts) people have had their compression come back and their oil consumption come down.

 

I'll second 99obw's suggestion to use a 15W-40 HDEO fleet-oil like Pennzoil LL. Use it during the Auto-Rx treatment, then continue using afterwards to keep things clean. :headbang:

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Sea Foam will bust those rings loose if you suspect they are stuck or not seated properly. A thrid can in the oil, third can in the gas tank, and keep the last third for later :)

 

Also replace your PCV valve. Those can blow some oil by too if they are constantly stuck open.

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I must qualify my earlier suggestion to use a 15w-40. I wouldn't use 15w-40 in Michigan in the winter. I would use a 5w-40 for winter, such as Rotella T. You don't want to use the Rotella T during an Auto-RX clean or rinse cycle, only after you are done.

 

The PCV valve is great advice.

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