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96 Outback pwr door locks


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37 replies to this topic

#26 BigMattyD

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:48 PM

Here is a PDF of the door lock system, it's not very complicated. I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it....


Matt

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#27 Sweden

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 03:56 PM

Thanks-a-million for the advice and diagram Cougar & BigMattyD. I spent the day with changing brake pads and other things to get the car ready for its annual inspection coming up, so it will need to wait a few more days for time to dig back into the door. I did notice though that the 'ghost' came back while test driving the car today--meaning that the locks locked by themselves while driving.

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#28 Cougar

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Posted 20 August 2006 - 07:43 PM

I would guess that the lock switch is causing that to happen.

#29 JStamberg

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 09:04 AM

Once again, kudos to the guys of this board who take the time to not only figure things out, but share the knowledge with others. I had been getting progressively frustrated (as my locks got progressively less responsive) with my 96 Legacy.

This fix took me less than a couple hours to do, and NO new parts (other than a small bit of JB weld).

I did it a couple of weeks ago... the automatic unlock hasn't missed once since!

Thanks!:clap:

#30 rweddy

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 09:28 AM

Once again, kudos to the guys of this board who take the time to not only figure things out, but share the knowledge with others. I had been getting progressively frustrated (as my locks got progressively less responsive) with my 96 Legacy.

This fix took me less than a couple hours to do, and NO new parts (other than a small bit of JB weld).

I did it a couple of weeks ago... the automatic unlock hasn't missed once since!

Thanks!:clap:

You are welcome, my jb weld jerry rig held for years until the car was totalled.

#31 Sweden

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Posted 17 September 2007 - 10:14 AM

I actually fixed my problem a while back. I took the door apart but everything seemed to work well. I ended up digging a bit further (beyond the door) only to find that the wiring harness to all the electronical items in the door was in really bad shape. It was the one below the fuse box. Apparently there was some Minnesota salt water leakage there for a few years that took its toll on the wires in the harness. I bypassed the wires around the harness and everytrhing is peachy with the locks again!

Sweden

#32 grossgary

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 02:04 PM

Okay the link to this "fix" is dead, so does anyone know more about this?

#33 rweddy

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 02:27 PM

That was my post, sorry I don't have that web site up anymore.

#34 grossgary

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 02:52 PM

Crack, okay well do you have any further info or pictures? I'm not even sure what this is all about - it seems like it's not about the actual lock switch (meaning the drivers master inside switch that toggles back and forth), but something else inside the door?

#35 rweddy

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 03:04 PM

Yes it is actually the part on the inside of the door on the striker mechanism.
If you take off the door panel and then the door striker you will see it on there.

I will try to find the pictures I took a few years back, if I didn't delete them.

#36 Cougar

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 03:04 PM

Deleted.

#37 grossgary

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 04:28 PM

I have a parts car, if it's clean and no dents I might just swap doors. I have to paint the hood and fender anyway due to Mr. Deer (2 in one week :rolleyes:).

If the parts car door is clean, straight, and no dents I might use it.

#38 1-3-2-4

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 08:24 PM

crap i just paid for a door lock timer on ebay for my legacy and might not need it?

Mine is odd.. I noticed if the doors wont lock after pressing the drivers side door lock if i slam the glove box shut the doors will lock.




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