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Removing timing belt on Lecacy, what tools needed?


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23 replies to this topic

#1 coloradosubarules

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 09:49 AM

I am taking the timing belt off of my 90 legacy to reseal the oil pump and I need to know exactly what tools I am going to need to take it off and put it back on. The 2 front belts and shroud are already off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I will be doing the work today 8/30/04. I am on Eastern time 10:45am.

Thanks in advance

How do I remove the key from the crank?
How do I take tension off the belt?
Where is this O-ring people keep talking about? Front or back of oil pump?
Is this the O-ring? http://www.partsamer...ype=925&PTSet=A
Do I have to worry about throwing the timing off just by taking the belt off?
If a single person can answer these questions I have on this page then I can get to work and be driving again.

#2 Commuter

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 10:27 AM

I'm not sure what engine you have.

There is a great series of articles on www.motor.com (for the 2.2L).

Go to the site.

Click on Motor Magazine.

Click on Articles and Features.

Click on Back Issues.

Select July 2001 from the list.

Click View Articles button.

It is under the heading of Foreign service.

It goes on thru to Nov 2001.

Perhaps this will help you.

Commuter

PS - I just read the opening couple of paragraphs. The torque on the crank pulley fastener is wrong. It is not 79 ft-lbs. I forget the exact value, but I think it is around 110. There have been prior posts about this.

#3 sasquatch

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 11:15 AM

I'm too lazy to look it all up, but FWIW...

It's all pretty easy...the belt tensioners are self explanatory and are around 10 to 13mm. The main pulley bolt is something like a 22. The only tricky thing is blocking off the main pulley. There is plastic port on the passenger side of the bell housing right behind the injectors. Pull the cap off and you can see little holes in there when you turn the pulley. I use a long screw driver stuck into one of the holes.

oh yeah...the hydraulic tensioner for the idler has to come all the way off. It takes a lot of pressure to push it back when you go to reinstall it. Once off, use a C-clamp to push it back in. There is a little hole well you can stick a small allen to keep it depressed.

The cam pulleys move pretty easily so you'll probably have to reset the timing. Again easy stuff...on the cam pulleys as I recall there are notches in the cam pulley and then also arrows...use the notches...they line up with obvious notches on the housing.

The timing housing cover? Those are just little knurled nuts with a friction fit against plastic as I recall...don't overtighten them, or they'll become useless and just spin freely in the plastic.

That's all I have time for right now. good luck

#4 coloradosubarules

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 12:04 PM

Like I am going to take advice from someone who kidnapped the best rappers alive! Thanks for the help though. Nobody has answered my question regarding the key though. How do I remove it? Pliers?

I am going to set the cam to TDC then mark the crank and cam pulleys with a grease marker so that way it will be easy to time if need be. I found out from the previous owner that the WP/cam seals and crank seals were replace when he did the timing belt not too long ago.

#5 NOMAD327

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 12:38 PM

The key should be a woodruff type which is a half circle in shape. The timing gear is slid off the key first. You tap down on the back side of the key, which starts to spin it out of the rounded slot it's in a bit. you can then tap the exposed front toward the end of the shaft with a small cold chisel or screwdriver and it will pop right out of the groove. This is a gentle process, no hard beating is required or wanted. To go back together, clean up any varnish or scale and place the key back in the slot lightly oiled. It is easier if it has a very slight slope down toward the end of the shaft, that way it will not catch the gear slot when it starts to slide up over the key. Once the gear is over the end of the key, you can tap down on the back side to square it in the slot or just let the progress of the gear over the key force it into correct alignment.

#6 tcspeer

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 06:57 PM

Unless I missed something you dont need to take the crank key out. The crank pulley will wiggle right off once the nut is removed.

#7 roger1

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 10:32 PM

The chain wrench sure was a big help with loosening the stud that holds pulley. put piece of webbing or leather under to prevent nicking pulley. Belt tightener compresses very slow in vise(2 -3 minutes) a little at a time. Mines a 2.2 l 95 model. I used Haynes manual with OEM parts and worked fine. Timing belt had marks on for timing the cams and main pulley which made it easy. You can count the teeth and mark it too if it didn't have it. Hope I'm not too late!

#8 coloradosubarules

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Posted 30 August 2004 - 11:51 PM

Too late, I just walked in the door from doing the job. Thanks to everyones help on here it went as smooth as silk. Yes the car still runs. I had to put it together without the timing cover for now because I have to order one. I can't thank you all enough. If you all were here we would go out to eat.

Don't bad mouth Sasquatchs or you will be sorry....

#9 DerFahrer

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 12:16 AM

Hey a Floridian!

Did you replace all the other oil seals? Cam, crank? I have to go redo my timing belt coz my cam seals are now leaking...

#10 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 01:25 AM

I got lucky, the previous owner replaced all the seals when he did the timing elt and water pump. I wish he went the extra mile and did the oil pump seal because that sprung a leak. They don't look to hard to do though.

I know yall just got done cleaning up after Chraley, looks like Frances has plans for us too. I hope you and yours get thought it all safely. If you ever need help give me a holler. I am 2 hours south of Orlando but I have friends in Orlando I like to visit. I used to live in WInterpark off Goldenrod.

#11 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 01:44 AM

Just to let everone know, my car is fixed and running smoothly so please save your advice for some other person in need and don't waste it on me anymore. Everone on here was extremely helpfull.

BTW: The crank sprocket did not just slide off. I had to use a gear puller and the key would not budge for anything! I think it was welded to the shaft. I just worked around it. I even tried heating it with no results.

If you are reading this and considering doing a belt or seal yourself, take my advice and mark everything well! the cam pulley, crank, belts....and my words! Mark them well.

#12 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 03:20 PM

I spoke too soon. I didn't get the timing dead on and now the car runs like crap and the check engine light is on. Looks like I am back to the drawing board tonight.

Wish me luck...

#13 arracado

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 03:28 PM

Good luck dude. That always sucks when you get everything put back together and something's still not right.....

#14 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 04:42 PM

I belong to the local jeep club here in Port St. Lucie, FL and I must say, even though I do not know any of the people who post on here and I do know everyone in the jeep club, I would much rather hang out with my fellow Subaru lovers than the "so-called" jeep fanatics. You all rule!!!

#15 roger1

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 08:36 PM

I belong to the local jeep club here in Port St. Lucie, FL and I must say, even though I do not know any of the people who post on here and I do know everyone in the jeep club, I would much rather hang out with my fellow Subaru lovers than the "so-called" jeep fanatics. You all rule!!!

Did your belt have some marks on to get the proper number of belt teeth between cam pulleys and main gear? The haynes book was very good about the count and on my OEM belt they had marks that was a big help which I discovered by DUMB luck. If it runs you cannot be very far off. On my 86 I thought you could tweek dist and 1 tooth wasn't a problems. NO WAY!!!!

#16 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 08:44 PM

The belts marks were gone but I was at the parts store earlier and read the manual, came home and counted teeth and then marked it with white-out. I also lined up the marks on the cam pulleys and the mark on the crank. Needless to say she is purring now and once again I love my Subaru. Lets just see if it can outrun a hurricane. :banana:

#17 sasquatch

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 09:28 PM

The belts marks were gone but I was at the parts store earlier and read the manual, came home and counted teeth and then marked it with white-out. I also lined up the marks on the cam pulleys and the mark on the crank. Needless to say she is purring now and once again I love my Subaru. Lets just see if it can outrun a hurricane. :banana:


sweet! That is good news... alot of belts come with the marks already on the belt.....so....we'll see if you remember that in 60K more :rolleyes:

#18 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 10:46 PM

I was feeling lazy today so I called around to get a quote on how much it would cost to have someone do the timing for me. After a few calls of $120.00 (belt not included) and alot of people saying "Subarus are a rare breed and we won't touch them", I decided to try it again and if I get it right, open my own shop that only works on Subarus. The first one worked but I am going to have to skip the later one due to the fact that it probably wouldn't pay as much as Working for the IT consultant firm. I think the CE light is going to be the code that retards the timing and causes it to act sluggish in a certain RPM range. I am going to reset the ECU, TCU tommorow morn and go from there.

We are bartles and james and we thank you for your support

#19 jcniest5

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 11:30 PM

...open my own shop that only works on Subarus...it probably wouldn't pay as much as Working for the IT consultant firm.....


I say if you can invest to start the shop, it would pay much more than your IT consultant once you get the shop going. Hey, if I lived down there, I don't mind working for you! That is, if you hire me first...hehehehe...lol. Although I know enough to start, I do not have an ASE so it may not do much good in my case.

#20 coloradosubarules

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Posted 31 August 2004 - 11:39 PM

I would hire you in a heartbeat but what you don't know about FL is.....there are not that many Subarus here. There is no snow, no ice. Just rain. Four wheel drive can't even help some of these people when it rains. It's as if they forget how to drive.

I get paid $21.00 an hour to sit on my keester and type on the keyboard like I am doing now. If I had my own shop that would require more throwing the wrench and sweating. I do enough of that on my own car.....and that costs me money.

I am going to single handedly bring back the Budwiser penguin. Dooby dooby doo...

#21 DerFahrer

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Posted 01 September 2004 - 12:57 AM

Congrats on getting the car back running... That's one thing I like about 80's Subarus, the two-belt design actually works in your favor. Worry about one cam at a time. With one belt, you have to have everything lined up at once, it can be very frustrating...

I don't think the hurricane will head our way, I've lived in FL long enough to say that I think it will veer off before it makes landfall. Will it come dangerously close? Probably. Will we get a full-blown hurricane right through Central FL, again?? I don't think so. Nonetheless, I do have an option of hightailing it out of town should it come this way. Good luck in your part of the state!

#22 coloradosubarules

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Posted 01 September 2004 - 07:04 AM

I heard this morning that the eye of the storm is going to hit St. Lucie county. I am taking no chances. We are boarding up tonight and leaving thursday. My wife and I like Macon, GA (cause we are rednecks) so we are going to hightail it there or Atlanta.


Hope everyone gets through this unharmed.

#23 jcniest5

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Posted 01 September 2004 - 08:35 AM

...I get paid $21.00 an hour to sit on my keester and type on the keyboard like I am doing now...shop...more throwing the wrench and sweating...


True that you will sweat more owning a shop. Hey, why not move to the Twin Cities and start the shop and we'll sweat it out and see if we become millionaire someday? LOL...It would be nice, huh?

#24 jcniest5

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Posted 01 September 2004 - 08:37 AM

I heard this morning that the eye of the storm is going to hit St. Lucie county. I am taking no chances. We are boarding up tonight and leaving thursday. My wife and I like Macon, GA (cause we are rednecks) so we are going to hightail it there or Atlanta.


Hope everyone gets through this unharmed.


Sorry to hear that you'll have to get out of town because of the hurricane. Hope everything will be fine.




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