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'93 Legacy, no electricity, possibly self-inflicted


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I recently replaced the PCV valve and brake fluid as part of 120,000 mile servicing. I started to bleed out the RR caliper first when I noticed that I no longer have any electricity; no lights, no acc. no starter, no nuthin. No sparks or heat observed when I bridged the terminals of the battery (it is 2 years old)

 

Might I have possibly hit something under the hood or in the wheel well to cause a short? If so, what "hot spots" should I look for?

 

TIA for pointers.

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I recently replaced the PCV valve and brake fluid as part of 120,000 mile servicing. I started to bleed out the RR caliper first when I noticed that I no longer have any electricity; no lights, no acc. no starter, no nuthin. No sparks or heat observed when I bridged the terminals of the battery (it is 2 years old)

 

Might I have possibly hit something under the hood or in the wheel well to cause a short? If so, what "hot spots" should I look for?

 

TIA for pointers.

I would think it'd be hard to miss if you managed to short out your whole battery. Will it jump start?

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So lets get this straight. You were changing the brake fluid and you shorted out your entire electrical system. That is odd because the other day I was washing my rear window and all the tires fell off.

 

I am going to assume you had some sort of metal tool in the engine compartment around the passengers side headlight area. Maybe the tool hit both battery terminals when you were jacking up said vehicle or driving it onto a ramp or ramps. Did you have to use a die grinder to free this tool from the terminals seeing as how it welded itself to the terminals.

 

Step 1: Get a new battery

step 2: Install battery terminal covers

step 3: LEarn how to use an OHM meter or 12Volt test light and just start checking for juice. Chances are there is a fusable link somewhere before the harness. Also check all the fuses under the hood and under the dash. Just remember that just because they look ok does not mean they are. A hariline crack can cause it not to work. This is when the meter comes into play. Test them all for continuity.

Step 4: Fix the problem and just use an ounce of prevention next time. We all make mimstakes.

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An update. (teletype noise in the background...)

 

I borrowed a voltmeter from a friend. We found the battery completely discharged. We then hooked up his charger for a few hours. When removed the juice returned: lights, accessories, starter, VROOM!

 

His suggestion (and probably the right one): the dome light was probably left on for an extended period. The car had been in the garage while I went to NYC for a few days so this is plausible.

 

Now, everyone please excuse me while I crawl into this crack in the baseboard and eat some crow...

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don't feel bad, when I was living in CO and vacationing in FL I left my 90 Legacy with my cousin. He calls me up and says "your car was dead, I had to jump start it so I could move it in the dirveway." Needless to say I flipped out because it was a brand new battery. Come to find out (when I returned) the drivers side door does not shut all the way so somebody glued a nickel where the PIN switch strikes the door. The nickel fell off, therefore killing my battery. There is a quarter there now.

 

Happens to the best of us....

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Wow...well the dome light should'nt zap a battery like that so fast. Have you had the battery load tested recently? It may be a good idea to get a new battery if it is old.

This battery is about 18 months old. I have heard a few stories about new batteries that ran down in 2-3 days when a door was left open in an auto body shop. Accordingly, the dome light theory doesn't surprise me.

 

That said, I will probably replace this one before the winter sets in since running it down reduced the ability to hold a charge.

 

$60 lesson learned. :-(

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