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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Frozen/Rusted Exhaust Pipe Bolts


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Phillip

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 12:31 PM

I need to remove the engine from my sons' '87 Wagon to replace a leaking rear main seal but am concerned about removing the exhaust system. The exhaust studs & nuts (at the heads) are badly rusted and coroded; I expect they will break when I try to remove them. I don't have access to a torch, so heating the nuts is not an option. Any suggestions regarding removal of these nuts will be greatly appreciated!

#2 Subie Gal

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 12:38 PM

breaker bar and some good muscle if you dont have access to a torch or air tools...


and yes, they will break.
expect to use lots of wd-40 ;)

good luck!
Jamie

#3 Legacy777

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 12:55 PM

Find some pb blaster and spray the bolts real good the day before, or a couple days before. Best penentrating oil out there...period!

#4 Strakes

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 12:59 PM

Ditto the above. Pb blaster is awesome.

#5 MorganM

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 01:49 PM

Honestly GET a torch or borrow some air tools. You can get a small torch setup for $50 at Home Depot. 2 small tanks (oxygen and accediline) with a mixer and everything to get you set up. You can also just buy some MAP guass with a nozel on it for way cheaper.

I use breaker bars A LOT. Usually I end up slipping 2' or doubleing up to 4' of cheater bar on my 15" flex handel breaker bar. Rust is nothing new to me or bolts that are rusted and heat welded on! My impact wrench is 10 times better and loosening things withOUT breaking the bolt! Best luck I've had with the breaker bar and cheaters is first heating royaly with torch.

The worst is drilling out a damn bolt out thats broke off. I've done that way too many times. Its irritating at the very least and ads hours to any project. EZ Outs? Waste of your money... Nut Buster? Worthless... Heat or Air tools are THE WIN! :drunk:

#6 Will Smith

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 06:28 PM

i have to agree with the flame wrench idea. You could find someone with a torch set up and have them heat the nuts for you. you only need the nuts red hot most of the time. the nut will get hot and expand therefore breaking the rust bond. Take your tool set with you. Loosen them, drive back home to complete the work.

#7 cookie

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 10:19 PM

even if you get a crummy propane torch kit it is better than nothing.If you can get the dang thing cherry it will move.
God I am glad I no longer live in a salt area!

#8 DerFahrer

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Posted 03 September 2004 - 10:56 PM

The exhaust studs are screwed into the head, so I personally believe that the worst case scenario is that instead of loosening the nuts you will just remove the whole stud. Just go to your local Subaru dealer and get 4 new studs, then match up some nuts and washers to them. Then just install the new studs with a strong threadlocker and you're set.

#9 Setright

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Posted 04 September 2004 - 02:30 AM

Have the "heli-coils" at the ready! Studs will tear the old thread out of the heads :-(

#10 rallyruss

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Posted 04 September 2004 - 03:09 AM

Sea Foam deep creep. now thats the best pen oil I have ever used.


I used to work at the local sewage treatment plant on the heavy equipment. that stuff would corrode stainless fasteners. yield worked OK but deep creep is the best. PB is cool too if thats the best you can find.

and last resort. the blue wrench.




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