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Where to repair ECU


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I have repaired a few of these units. Two of them were for a '88 GL-10 that had the same problem. A transistor that drives the power transistor for the fuel pump ground went bad and for $1.80 I replaced the bad transistor.

 

Another unit had a problem with the IC that turned on the ECU light. Replacing the IC fixed that.

 

What kind of trouble are you having with your unit?

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At the moment I am not experiencing any problems with the ECU, but only thinking about some alternatives if problems occur and looking for ways to be flexible so that I can take the 86 GL10 turbo where ever...for those who have driven on the Alaskan Highway and far further north then Anchorage to the Artic circle will know exactly what I am talking about...I have been up that way twice and some people will say that maybe I should buy a new car...but on several occassions I have seen $40-$60K cars stranded in Norhthern BC/Yukon with the only option of towing them a 1000 miles to the dealer..then again maybe I should keep on travelling with my carbed subaru...any further info would be appreciated...Thanks....

I have repaired a few of these units. Two of them were for a '88 GL-10 that had the same problem. A transistor that drives the power transistor for the fuel pump ground went bad and for $1.80 I replaced the bad transistor.

 

Another unit had a problem with the IC that turned on the ECU light. Replacing the IC fixed that.

 

What kind of trouble are you having with your unit?

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I purchased a refurbished ECU through a locale auto parts store here in Anchorage. This was before I ended up fixing my original unit. I wouldn't worry too much about the ECU failing on you. They are usually very reliable. Mine gave out after I installed a new replacement alternator because the original one was having diode problems. I think the little extra voltage from the new unit caused the transistor in the ECU to fail. A shop had gave me one to work on that fit my car and the exact same transistor in it was bad also. I think the transistor either had a production line fault or was not the correct one to use for that design. A generic replacement worked ok. Another car I had of the same year and model didn't have this trouble.

 

If you are going to purchase another ECU for a spare I would try looking for one at a salvage yard, you should be able to get one fairly cheap. You can plug it into your car at the yard and see if it works. I would leave it in place and keep the original as a known good spare.

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  • 1 year later...

A year ago when I was first starting to try to get my 1988 GL running, I found a place in Great Britan somewhere that will take, check/diagnose, and if needed repair ECUs. I didn't contact them, and I'm afraid I've lost track of it, but it's got a web page somewhere.

 

I have a "spare" -- the '88 didn't pass smog 'til the mechanic replaced the ECU (this was before I bought the car). It supposedly had a 'bad internal ground in the ECU connection to the EGR' but I doubt it. The code came back, after I bought the car; they'd left one of the two EGR ports plugged solid with carbon.

 

I suppose sometime I should swap them again just to see if it works.

 

After I redo all the ground wire connections ....

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the ECU is small and lightweight, just carry an extra one somewhere. great insurance if you're worried about it, takes about 3 minutes to swap.

 

extra alt, ECU, coil, starter, ignitor, fusible links, full size spare and you're golden (assuming your t-belts and ignition are good, which i assume would be on a long trip).

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