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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Brake reaction rod mod---Now Pics added to the thread!!


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25 replies to this topic

#1 subusolo2nut

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 11:36 AM

Well-When I changed my tires to 205/50vr15's--I started having problems with suspension "kick"--could have also been the 0" offset rims I'm now using:)--So, I needed to design a more positive way to control fore'n'aft movement--took a pair of EA82 rods (larger in diameter than the EA81's)--cut off the rubber bushing ends & redesigned the body mount & rods to accept Heim joints (steel rod ends)--this allowed me to have a adjustable Caster setting & produced almost 0" fore'n'aft movement & made the up'n'down movement almost free-floating--

I'll post the pics in the next day or so--looks like a good mod for people that "stress" their suspensions more than normal & allows Caster change too:brow:

#2 erik litchy

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 01:53 PM

there are adjustable strut rods on the market for the e82 style cars

#3 oddcomp

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 02:10 PM

maybe so.. but i bet his way is cheaper for us po folk...

#4 NorthWet

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 02:18 PM

Did you cover the Heim Joints? I did something similar with my '71 510, but the joint cruds-up very quickly. Might be different on the soob, as the Datsun's rods point forward.

(For the rest of us: Heim Joints are also known as spherical rod ends, used on race cars and industrial apps.)

#5 subusolo2nut

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 05:07 PM

maybe so.. but i bet his way is cheaper for us po folk...

Thanks for the vote--as for the cost--two industrial CG8 joints & 1/2" grade 8 bolts ($20)--4 offset spacers to allow full travel of Heim joints ($6)--1/2" internal moly tubing (about 1'--$5)--two tube ends ($8) & some misc steel (scrap around the shop)--pair of EA82 rods ($10 from a local wrecking yard) + 3 hrs of my time to design & weld = much better handling.

sounds like about $50 to me--not accounting my time of course:grin:

#6 subusolo2nut

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Posted 26 September 2004 - 05:14 PM

Did you cover the Heim Joints? I did something similar with my '71 510, but the joint cruds-up very quickly. Might be different on the soob, as the Datsun's rods point forward.

(For the rest of us: Heim Joints are also known as spherical rod ends, used on race cars and industrial apps.)


Well-I'll see how they go--the area is pretty well protected & I designed it to stay out of the spray--so--we will see in about a month or so---

#7 JWX

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Posted 27 September 2004 - 02:44 PM

do you have any pics?

#8 TomRhere

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Posted 27 September 2004 - 06:57 PM

Sounds good at this end also. But, I'm think'g more along the lines of a Grade 5 bolt/stud instead of Grade 8. Reason being is, 8's are strong for sure, but they don't take the side impact as well as a 5 would. They, (8's), are a harder bolt/stud, good for linear stength, but they'll shear sideways at lower impact force, than what a 5 would. 8's are good for "Mega-torque" applications were linear stength is needed. 5's are a good all-around hardened bolt for toughness.

#9 subusolo2nut

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Posted 27 September 2004 - 09:50 PM

I'll have some pics tomorrow night (forgot to take the camera with me today):-\--As for the Grade 8 vs Grade 5--Whatever works for you--I used the 8's cause I had them & the shear is over 12,000lb--The CG8's will shear at about 10,000lb--hope to NEVER have to test that on the racetrack:dead:--offroad it would be better to use the 5's--they will deform without breaking--so you could still get back after a "bash".

Later!!

#10 subusolo2nut

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Posted 28 September 2004 - 09:22 PM

OK--got enough pics to show what was done---in advance--remember that they are on the inside of the "framerails", so they won't get a lot of spray--I've been running them for two weeks now & went thru a couple of rain storms--and didn't clean them before the shots---:grin:

#11 baccaruda

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Posted 29 September 2004 - 12:52 AM

wow, how's it handle? nice work.

#12 bajavwnsoobnut

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Posted 29 September 2004 - 03:34 AM

hmmm interesting I might look into that for when I redo the suspension on the 76.....

#13 subusolo2nut

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Posted 29 September 2004 - 08:55 AM

The handling is much "tighter"--I feel that I can corner about 2/3 mph faster & can place the car more predictably---the next step is to heim the inner control arms--I'll be designing them in the next couple of weeks---

#14 JoshuaBGoode

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Posted 13 October 2004 - 06:49 PM

Hey Solo2. Bet you can't guess who this is. Anyways...I was just woundering if you had posted pictures of your car and how you did this last Autocross. Are there going to be anymore events in October? Cheers.

#15 rallyruss

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Posted 13 October 2004 - 07:14 PM

looks good. I may have to attempt somthing similar. I dont like the lousy street maners my car has now. I too am looking at tires in either 205/50/15 or 195/60/15.

how much caster change were you able to gain? any binding problems?

#16 subusolo2nut

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Posted 13 October 2004 - 10:29 PM

Hey Josh!!! good to hear from you--As if I couldn't tell from the handle----Yea, We are done for the year--Final points put me in SECOND place ahead of Tony & the Ford--I was knocked over by the 'ragin 510--WAIT TIL NEXT YEAR!!!:lol: You know whats up with that---

Workin in the car this weekend--pulling the front off & cleaning up the flairs--got the bid on a "ahumm" early Mini front air dam that I'm going to use---Yea, I know--I know:-p---The heims are going in the front A arms on Sat---And I'm re-designing the rear suspend with un-equal A arms & coil-overs in the next few weeks--

As for the adjustment & how it all works--no problems as of this time--when I do the A arms, I expect that there will be next to 0 movement in the suspension--the caster available is from 0 degree to 5 positive, so you can set it almost any way you want it--I expect that the caster total will decrease as I increase the negative camber--but the amount should still be in the 2--3 positive range while allowing about 1--1.5 degree negative at the lower ball joint--I'll post pics Sunday or so as to the finished mod---the A arm will have to be slotted in a circular pattern--pics will follow----

Later----

#17 WoodsWagon

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 08:41 PM

opinoins on how this would work for off road use? My strut rod bushings are starting to crack and rip, so should i replace with the same or convert to "heim" joints?

#18 WJM

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 09:23 PM

Thats certinly cool. When I get the wagon back up as a daily driver, Im going to put the RX under the knife for some stuff like that...and on the rear too!

#19 subusolo2nut

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 10:56 PM

Its been a Month & 1/2 from these pics--You can look for the lower control arm mods that were in a later thread---With proper thought you could use this mod for both raised & lowered cars--Raised cars would need the inner fulcrum point rotated to align with the control arm & lowered cars can do it like the pics show---As for the handling---First, steel parts transmit more road noise to the inside--that being said--You can place the car almost anywhere in a corner & I feel totally at ease running 3 times the "rated" speed thru a corner--the car plants within a inch or so of where I want it to & the line thru is changeable at will--I've been invited to run the car at ThunderHill next spring, so the EJ22 & the rear suspension mods have pushed the paint job to the side--I'm going to design a 8 to 11 gal tank to go under the floor in the old rear seat area so the rear can be just for the exaust & rear suspension---With no rear tank I'll be able to design a wide-based A-arm suspend--will have adjustable coil-overs with rear discs--moving the tank forward in the body will also increase traction under acceleration & inprove weight transfer under braking--Going to be very busy the next few months--I'll have pics as it goes along---

Dean

#20 Ross

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 11:12 PM

Sounds good at this end also. But, I'm think'g more along the lines of a Grade 5 bolt/stud instead of Grade 8. Reason being is, 8's are strong for sure, but they don't take the side impact as well as a 5 would. They, (8's), are a harder bolt/stud, good for linear stength, but they'll shear sideways at lower impact force, than what a 5 would. 8's are good for "Mega-torque" applications were linear stength is needed. 5's are a good all-around hardened bolt for toughness.


This is only applicable if you do not torque the bolts properly. If torqued properly, grade 8 bolts do not take ANY of the shear load. The shear load is taken by the friction in the joint itself, caused by the axial tension in the bolt. In a properly designed joint, the bolt stress will not change at all with any changing joint loading. THis is why joints using grade 8 or higher bolts are refered to as "friction joints".

The proper torque for these bolts is generally enough to stress the bolt to around 0.8 of it's yeild stress.

#21 subusolo2nut

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 11:50 PM

This is only applicable if you do not torque the bolts properly. If torqued properly, grade 8 bolts do not take ANY of the shear load. The shear load is taken by the friction in the joint itself, caused by the axial tension in the bolt. In a properly designed joint, the bolt stress will not change at all with any changing joint loading. THis is why joints using grade 8 or higher bolts are refered to as "friction joints".

The proper torque for these bolts is generally enough to stress the bolt to around 0.8 of it's yeild stress.


Agree--I like using Grade 8's--I always torque to a "proper" setting for the bolt application & have not distorted any of my "custom" parts over the years--I have done "destructive" testing on a few of those cars----:)

Have a few scars for my efforts----

Cheers!!
Dean

#22 baccaruda

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:38 PM

Solo, could you please resurrect the pics for this thread and update us (me :P ) as to how they're holding up? I'm looking at heim-ing my wagon's strut rods but I was going to put the heims at the forward end instead...
thanks!
Andy

#23 Uberoo

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:26 PM

yes bump for pics I can't seem to find them so I dont really have much of a clue of what you are talking about.

#24 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 06:47 PM

He hasn't been logged in since january, so you might want to PM or email him.

GD

#25 baccaruda

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 07:25 PM

well look at you being all sensible and seeing if he'd been logged in recently :P




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