simbey1982 Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 First of all thank you so much for all of the information on the Final Drive Ratio the tranny will match up just fine... Got somemore questions for the soob-gurus I need some other stuff with my tranny for mt AT/MT swap: Here is some pertinent info I have: My currnet engine and Trany (EJ22,4EAT) transmission (5-speed out of legacy 99 gt) shifter assembly I Need: starter Pedal Assembly Clutch Pressure Plate flywheel (won't the current one work?) See the 5-speed transmission here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7925766890 Questions 1. Will my current flywheel work? (I know lightened is better but my check book doesnt think so =0) 2. I have a lead on a pedal assembly out of an 05 WRX...i think they use hydraulic clutches though. would this change how the pedal assembly works?? or would this pedal assembly work for a cable as well? See it here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7926271005 3. Also i have found a lead on a clutch plate will this work for my purposes? it is off of a 05 WRX as well http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7926257948 4. Is there anything i need to add or can take off of my parts list?? USMB members rock Thanks for all the help Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbob99 Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 Your current fly wheel as in the one thats attatched the your auto tranny? With an auto tranny you actualy have whats called a "flex plate" Its what your tourque converter bolts to, so you have no fly wheel. In a manual tranny the flywheel is what the clutch presses against, to attatch the engine to the wheels... so you gotta find a fly wheel as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
applegump Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 Cool, I just learned something new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 9, 2004 Share Posted October 9, 2004 I learned a few years ago. First go to the post where Josh (legacy777) details his saga of swapping a manual for an automatic. He did a good job of explaining what is involved in this type of swap. Second I 'll tell you about something dumb I did. I bought a Ford 289 at a swap meet for my Datsun Z. I ended up chaseing everywhere for the parts I needed to complete a four speed swap on the engine, and near went nuts finding water pump, pulleys etc. to complete it. It was harder to complete the engine than it was to swap it into the Z. The next couple of swaps I did I bought a whole junk car with the engine. Note this is just what Josh did. There are so many things you need to have to do a swap from the junker that you can spend your remaining years in a junkyard. You are going to need to start..Clutch linkage, flywheel, throwout bearing, clutch, pilot bearing, pedal cluster, maybe driveshaft, maybe computer and wiring, and several things you don't expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THAWA Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 what year is your vehicle? What model is it? 1) You need a flywheel, you don't have one as danbob said. The problem is there's two types of flywheels/clutches/pressureplates/tobs(throw out bearings)/tranny's. One is a pull style used only on the turbo cars (legacy sport sedan, impreza wrx, impreza wrx sti, legacy gt, outback xt, forester xt, baja turbo). It is also only hydraulic, and was adapted from porsches design. The other type is a push style used on almost every other car whether subaru or not. On subaru's any non-turbo gets a push style, up until I think 97 or 98 they were all cable actuated. Afterwhich they were switched to hydraulic. 2) This will only work if you use a hydraulic setup, which push or pull, the clutch mastercylinder is still in the same spot. 3) This will only work with a pull style setup. The parts are shaped differently. 4) You need a bunch more ****: Driveshaft, transmission cross member and bolts, transmission mount, throw out bearing and clips if push style, clutch cable if you go with a cable actuated clutch, clutch master and slave cylinder if you go with hydraulic setup, also the line for that, center consle dash piece is different auto and manual, shift boot and shift knob, upper engine to trans bolts, ecu depending on year, some other minor things I cant think of. One thing I noticed in that picture of the tranny, it looks like a pull style transmission. For one the slave cylinder is behind the fork, which means it would push on the top and pivot so that the bottom was PULLING the clutch out. Also the clutch fork looks like a pull style fork. Now this means a bunch of stuff to you. you're almost undoubtbly going to need a new rear diff since the only trans's that are pull that would be removed at this point are either a legacy sport sedan or an impreza wrx. the sport sedan has a 3.900 final drive and the wrx has a 3.900 final with a 1.1:1 stepper which makes the rear final a 3.545. Thoug htat may be confusing you just nee to know that you will either need a 3.545 or 3.900 rear end. The only way to check which you need would either be to open up the tranny or decypher the transmission codes. I can't help you on that one though. At anyrate, this also means you're able to use wrx aftermarket parts now. Flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, etc.... I was going to say some more stuff but I just went blank, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 what thawa said I suggest you read my swap page very carefully to understand what's all involved. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THAWA Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 yeah josh did an excellent job, wish i would've documented mine that indepth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 because this is a good learning experience any way it turns out. These two guys have done this swap and so know a lot more than you or I. My suggestion would be to buy an absolute junker with a manual tranny, and before you do check with Josh and THAWA that it will give you the bits you need. I think this would actually be cheaper in the long run. When doing this sort of job I always liked to rebuild all componants on the way if possible so I got reliable service when I finished. I could also tell you about the Volvo motor I bought from a wreck and never found a car for. Four cyl Volvos just don't blow up much and I had hoped to find a blown one to fit it in...Oh well, another learning experience. Now I am an old fart who does not like to change much to affect reliability and would just buy what I want. I do miss the feeling when you finally start that project up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted October 10, 2004 Author Share Posted October 10, 2004 thanks for all of the info....i have the final drive ratio's matched at 4.111 (rear diff for 97 impreza 4EAT and front for 99 legacy gt MT). I didnt figure the pedal assembly would work but had to try...thanks for the bit on the flywheel i have a lack of understanding about that area of a vehicle...(I have a mechanic friend who is helping me and i didnt ask him =0) THank you for all of the parts list and help Josh (legacy777) thanks again for your help and your write up i have been studying it for a couple weeks. Bye all Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted October 10, 2004 Author Share Posted October 10, 2004 I think you guys have successfully scared me off this time....theres no way i can afford all of those bearings, along with clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and master cylinder and starter.....just have to find a junker i guess PS its a 1997 Impreza L Sedan if that makes it any easier with 4EAT thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THAWA Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 really I believe that's right about the ratios, but the picture doesn't look like the type of tranny you're buying, it looks like a pull style tranny. So you'll need to get the hydraulic stuff. When you get the tranny check the clutch fork and slave cyl before you buy a junker. If it looks like this: then it's a pull style and as such you'll need the same style flywheel and clutch/pressureplate/tob. Also you'll need the hydraulic pedal setup no matter if it's push or pull with it being from a 99. What you linked to should work Also make sure you get an impreza if you get a junker, since you'll need an impreza sized driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 looks like im going for it...talked with my friend and we sat down and did some cost estimation be more than i was hoping but it will be nice...since the transmisson is in such good condition i am going to use it and if its 3.9 then i will just have to buy a WRX LSD so sad =0) anyway thanx to THAWA and Legacy777 (again) for all the help.......just was a bit overwhelmed when i got to the post and had 4 huge messages and stuff i didnt expect....better get used to that i guess =0) thank you all again Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 As thawa mentioned above, the wrx uses a 1.1:1 stepper. So if the tranny is 3.900 and not a WRX, then you can not use the WRX rear diff, because it is 3.545. You'll need to find one out of a car with 3.900 final drive ratio and a 1:1 front/rear center gear ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THAWA Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 I wonder though, is there anyway to find this information out without looking at the transmission codes, they might be gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 I wonder though, is there anyway to find this information out without looking at the transmission codes, they might be gone. What do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Oh, by the way, if you do end up needing a 3.900 rear diff, I know someone in california that has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 Waaahooo...lots of crap to sort through....ok check on the stepper for the WRX diff.....Any other info on making sure this is a pull style tranny?? i am going to get it in a couple of days and if its pull style i may save myself the headache and not buy it and see if i can find a push style at 4.11 with a decently low amount of mileage....so any tips on determining what style it is would be great (thawa i got yours about the clutch fork but if you have anything else let me know Thanks again Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Another vote for buying a junker with the parts you want.. I didn't do that when I did my Auto / manual conversion. It turned out alright, but wouldn't have if not for 3-4 board members bringing me parts from all over the place as I realized I needed them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 ...So if anyone knows any tips on how to tell a push style from a pull syle tranny let me know ping =0) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Look for Dr. RX .. He's usually over on the old gen part of the board. He knows a bit about the specifics of these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 ping =0) You can tell by looking at how the clutch fork mounts. If it's on a pivot ball, it's a push type tranny. If the clutch fork goes through a cylindrical rod, it's a pull type. Look at some of the pics on my swap site. I have a pull type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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