RavenTBK Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Howdy yall. For my day job, I have the joy of being a wrecker operator. I wont tell you what area of expertise my job falls under, but I will say I dont make too many friends when I show up to pick up a car. I know that theoretically, all the later model AWD Subies need to be towed 4 up. At least thats how the manual puts it. But my question is this: I've heard rumors, mainly involving the WRX, that there is some sort of pin that you can remove on the back half of the tranny that would effectively disengage the rear axles from the center section, making it FWD. Is this true? I've also heard rumors, (unconfirmed by anybody but my connection at the local dealer) that AWD models can be towed 2 down (rear on the ground, neutral tranny, front in wheellift) as long as you dont exceed 8-10mph, as anything beyond would cause the viscous center section to wind up. Any truth to this rumor? I know that the Honda CRV FT4WD system uses engine vacuum to engage the clutchpacks. You remove the vac line from the tranny, it frees the rear end. Replace the line when you're done, and the rear reengages next time the engine cranks. I'm curious if theres something similar with the AWD subies. I figured I'd ask, so as to expand my knowledge about the AWD system..and to make my job easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 No useful knowledge here, but a suggestion that others can refute. As far as I know (see above disclaimer of ignorance), it probably would do little or no damage to tow 2-down for a couple of blocks at residential speeds until you are feeling better about hooking up properly. Seems safer than hanging around and trying to get all four up!!! BTW, I pay cash for all of mine, so I doubt that we will meet professionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 My 95 Legacy has a fuse slot in the engine bay that makes the car FWD when you insert a fuse in it. I think you're supposed to do that when towed, although I don't know if it's ideal to start the car and put it in gear to "activate" it or what--which does little good if your car won't start and thus needs towed. I've never tried it, just going from memory of what I think I read in the manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted October 12, 2004 Author Share Posted October 12, 2004 TTT I know theres some people that have answers for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 Why NOT to buy a repo AWD Subaru, regardless of WHAT the seller says! BTW, for a real hoot, rent and view "Repo Man" with a few friends, one of my favorite of all time flicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenSisters Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 I wouldn’t let my ‘ru get towed 2 feet with the wheels on the ground. Whether to tow a Subaru with the wheels on the ground or off is a true test of a tow operators scruples and morals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 There is no such pin that I've even seen. I've helped rebuild a few transmissions, and the WRX is not really any different than the others. There is no way to simply disengage the rear wheels. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 With AT, you do need a flatbed because the transfer clutch needs fluid pressure (that is, engine running) to operate properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coloradosubarules Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Do you drive a flat bed or a Dynamic? I presume dynamic would be best in your line of work but I have done it in a flatbed. If using a flatbed just throw some degreaser on the bed and it will slide up like a bar of soap in the tub. If running a dynamic just lift the front. Most Roos use a 90/10 power transfer ratio. (front/ back) Granted there is a fuse under the hood that disengages the rear wheels, I believe it only works when the ignition is on. Besides....get in, get out, get on with your life. It's not your car! Don't worry about it. You did your job. Let the lending inst pay for the damages. They wanted it back so bad. To all those who do not pay your bills: While you are sleepin....I come creepin. FYI: The movie "repo man" is some weird sheeot! If my memory serves my correctly it has Dennis Hopper in it. "DON"T OPEN THE TRUNK!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtsmiths Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 AK-shully, it's Emilio Estavez, Martin Sheen's baby brother. The movie is a very stangely funny flick. Hmmmmm, I wonder why I like it so much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 If running a dynamic just lift the front. Most Roos use a 90/10 power transfer ratio. (front/ back) Granted there is a fuse under the hood that disengages the rear wheels, I believe it only works when the ignition is on. You will most defenitly ruin any manual transmission towing more than a few 100 feet with only one set of wheels on the ground, and with automatics is worse. The center diff in an automatic is hydraulicly controlled. When the car is off the diffs is "locked." Only when the duty solinoid is turned on (putting the FWD fuse in) and there is hydraulic pressure (In other words the car is running) will the diff be unlocked. Anybody else care to agree?? Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Agreed. NEVER tow a permanent four-wheel-drive vehicle with one axle on the ground and the other off. Center diff will be toast. However, why not tow it on all four? Getting into a Sube isn't that hard. Just make sure the transmission auto or manual is in neutral and the handbrake released. Tow to a safer place, pull the entire shebang onto the flatbed and you're home free. Raven: CAR Magazine did a good article on this line of work recently. Were you involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Another, more recent, thread posted this link to Subaru website that addressed towing. Guess its the final word... http://www.subaru.com/owners/care/carcaretips/middle.jsp?pageID=towing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coloradosubarules Posted October 28, 2004 Share Posted October 28, 2004 99% of repo guys do not have a flat bed. They drive what is called a Dynamic (is the company name) wheel lift. Some even drive their own pick-ups with the wheel lift attached to the back (they sell them on ebay if anyone is interested) so I think the cars tranny is the last thing on their mind. It is their job to get in and out with the bounty. I would be a cold day in h*ll that I spent the time backing in my century double cab international flatbed into some alley in crack town to pick up some all-wheel drive vehicle. If it was me doing the job I would snatch it and run.....or if my boss was nice enough (and not stingy) I would trow a set of wheel dollys on it after I got a few blocks away. Alot of these non-tow truck drivers don't know what wheel dollys are and alot of drivers have them but never took the time to learn how to use them. I think this is the last word(s).....WHEEL DOLLYS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted October 28, 2004 Author Share Posted October 28, 2004 Well, thats what I run.. a Vulcan wheel lift. I usually keep my dollies on the truck, but it does take absolutely forever to set them up. In 90% of the places I pull from, its less than a 1/4 mile jog to a "safe spot" where I can do whatever I need to do without major fears of people knocking me off. The "jog" is always at low speed <25mph, as I usually dont even strap it down till I get to my safe spot. Just pick it up and go. From what I've been reading, the general consensus is to not ride 2up for any distance.. but theres a few of you offering other suggestions. Pretty much, what would be the odds the tranny would be reduced to a paperweight if this <1/4 mile jog at <25mph was taken? I understand there would be wear issues with the center diff.. but as long as it drives okay tomorrow its all good with my bossman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coloradosubarules Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I wouldn't worry about the 1/2 mile drag. As long as you come out alive thats all that matters. You got the prize and you got to live one more day. Stick the "yes I know they are a pain in the arse" dollys on and collect your check at the end of the week. You probably alread knew all the things I was going to say but needed a second opinion. They (customer) should have payed thier bills....while they are sleeping, you come creeping. REPO MEN...Steeling for a living. I love that show. A dude from the Sopranos riding shotgun with professional car jackers...AWWWW YEAH BABY!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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