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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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OIL FILTERS EXPOSED


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34 replies to this topic

#26 Guest_synapse79_*

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Posted 21 December 2002 - 01:39 AM

I cant believe you insulted me like that...
and what was the point of that...

Synthetic oil consists of smaller molecules than dino oil. The seals will eventually take a set to the oil, and suddenly switching to synthetic will sometimes result in blow by. Obviously not in all situations, but it is not wise to switch to synthetic after a considerable amount of miles.

#27 Guest_synapse79_*

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Posted 21 December 2002 - 01:44 AM

Why is it for sure i know very little about motors? I have discovered what i am talking about from expensive experience.

That really bothers me that you would judge somebody like that. How is having such a closed mind going to help you learn anything, or do you already know everything you need to know.

It also really bothers me that you feel you should just belittle somebody like that, what does that achieve, nothing.

#28 Guest_synapse79_*

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Posted 21 December 2002 - 02:03 AM

I post on F1 forums where every idea is critically dissected. What we are discussing here is not rocket science or political. There is no need for comments like that. I have got fond of posting here because everybody is friendly and dissagreements are constructive, and I normally dont feel like im going to be submitting myself to such nonsense.

#29 Guest_Legacy777_*

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Posted 21 December 2002 - 12:11 PM

There will be no personal attacks on people. This will NOT be tolerated!!

There's enough of that **** on other forums.

There is some truth to about switching oils at higher mileage. It all depends on how the motor was taken care of, and the quality of the componants put into the engine.

I see any more bickering......I will not hesitate to lock the thread!

#30 Guest_subyroo_*

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Posted 21 December 2002 - 09:42 PM

I have used a Franz By-pass filter that used to filter the oil through a toilet roll as per home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/NITYGRIT.HTM, I used it on an Australian 1979 VB Commodore 6cyl. Man Sedan.

It was dead easy and non messy to change the filter/toilet roll, all you had to remember was to undo the 2 x bolts mounting it to the bracket and turn it upside down overnight and next morning ondo the the wing nut on the band around the holder and dump the toilet roll.
you then replaced the toilet roll with a new one, re-postion the canister and re-tighten everything you undid and added 1 quart of fresh oil as normal to the engine and presto! off you went.

The day I traded my commodore in on a 1986 VL Commodore the Salesman remarked on how clean the oil was and it had done 12,000 miles since I had done a COMPLETE oil change, it looked like new oil.

I still have the filter but haven't fitted it to my MY01Liberty (aka Legacy) Sedan as yet as it is still under Warranty, but it will be going on when the time comes.

I also found this on the internet, NOTE Subaru's involvement:
www.trasko-usa.com/qanda.htm

And this view must speak for itself forums.vmag.com/pm-0899/messages/1041.html

#31 Guest_97svx_*

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Posted 24 December 2002 - 12:23 PM

I have a 95 Legacy with 113K miles, switched to Walmart synthetic and developed a leak. Based on my recent water pump replacement, I would guess that it was the oil pump o-ring.

Matt

#32 Guest_Frag_*

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Posted 24 December 2002 - 02:11 PM

One's own experience is a very limited thing, that's why I dont infer that synth oil will not create leaks in an engine because it did'nt happen with mine.
But I'd like to submit an hypotheses just for the sake of argument.
1) It's a fact that leaks happen more often on older engines than on newer ones. Seals wear.
2) What if a great part of new leaks (or oil consumption) appearing after switching to synth oil were just a coincidence. What if they would have happened anyway.
3) When two phenomena happen one after the other, one has a normal tendency to think the first one caused the second one. Sometimes true but not always.
Case in point : when my Loyale refused to start for the first time, it happened after I switched the motor off in an automatic car whash. I had to push the car out.
I immediately infered that it was humidity related and replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and such.
In fact it was the coolant temp sensor as I discovered a few days later.
Just food for thought.

#33 Guest_Legacy777_*

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Posted 26 December 2002 - 09:07 AM

Just some FYI with the leaking seals w/ synthetic oils & higher mileage engines.

When/if this occurs.....The damage has already happened before switching to synthetic. I just so happens that the synthetic unmasked it because of its cleaning properties.

I snagged this little excerpt from this page au.geocities.com/ozbrick8...msoil.html

There's more out there explaining leaking and why it happens.....

Something else to consider is that many people found, back in the 70's and 80's, that the use of 'synth' seemed to promote seals to leak. What was happening was that the 'synth' was cleaning the crud and gunk out of its lodging places, the buildup of gunk on the seal;s being what KEPT them from leaking in the first place. A good changeover-regime would be to have your PCV-flame trap-throttle body, etc., system cleaned thoroughly, then switch to the Mobil-1 or Amsoil, and monitor your oil at the dipstick AND on the garage floor or driveway. If the 'synth' is showing up on the ground as a leak, and it turns out to be your rear main (or front, less commonly) seal, then you probably needed the seal work done anyway. New seals AND synth should keep you on the road, worry-free, for many miles. An oil analysis at say 5,000 or 7,500 miles should tell you a lot about how your chosen product is holding up. A quick session with a calculator should reveal its cost effectiveness, the oil analysis should show its mecanical/chemical effectiveness.--PD. (Mobil-1 for me, so far, with a turbo-diesel, but still open to the idea of Amsoil. As noted, salesmen...well, they SELL; but r-e-a-d the company's own literature, look for an unbiased comparison of dino/Mobil-1/Amsoil --if such exists--, and go from there; verbal claims are just that. Caveat emptor.)

#34 Guest_remarcable_*

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Posted 28 December 2002 - 03:11 PM

I've been using the Mobil 1 filters from AutoZone without any problems. The car seems to do cold starts better with the mobil 1 filters than the OEM ones.

#35 Guest_SUBAMAN_*

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Posted 29 December 2002 - 08:25 AM

This site shows the aftermaket or secondary filter,
<a href="http://www.tonsure.com/4x4/frantz_oil_filter.htm" target="top">www.tonsure.com/4x4/frantz_oil_filter.htm</a>




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