Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Timming Belt is about a k past due...
Posted 17 December 2002 - 11:59 AM
Also, just to get an idea - what else I should have done while they are in there??
I'm budgeting for about $400 just to keep suprises to a minimum...thanks!
Oh yeah, it's a '91 Legacy FWD 2.2
Posted 17 December 2002 - 12:36 PM
My 98 2.2 developed an oil leak at 70 so thats when i did it. It can be done with out any oil loss.
I would also suggest resealing the oil pump, and in that case there is some oil loss.
It would also be a good idea to replace the front and rear main seals, and atleast front, that one gets pretty ugly and is easy to get at. If a manual now would be a good time to put in a new clutch disc, unless you or who ever is doing the work with out removing the motor, some goes for the rear main seal.
Some ppl say you should replace the water pump, it cant hurt. Atleast you would want to check to see if it was leaking.
Posted 17 December 2002 - 12:38 PM
Also, do not go to the dealership to have it done. You will be ripped off, and it will be a miracle if its done right. Get quotes from a few garages that specialize in subarus or inports.
Posted 17 December 2002 - 12:39 PM
Also, the belt tensionner could have to be replaced. That part is around 150$ US.
Posted 17 December 2002 - 12:56 PM
Have you ever seen the belt tensioner go bad?
Posted 17 December 2002 - 12:58 PM
In fact, I'm due for oil about now in both my soobs.
Gotta check the paper for any specials on cases.
Talk to you later!
Posted 17 December 2002 - 01:23 PM
I guess it's a little like for the water pump : if it's not leaking at second belt change, is one confortable with the idea it could fail before the third belt change?
I'll have to do my second belt next spring and have'nt yet decided if I'll replace the tensionner even if it seems to still be in good shape.
Would appreciate inputs by those with experience on this subject.
Finally, I think evaluation of how long a belt (or for that matter any drive train component) can last has to take into account what kind of driving one does. City driving gives the engines and related components at least twice the wear of highway driving.
Posted 17 December 2002 - 01:57 PM
As for the tensioner. It would have to look pretty bad before i would replace it. I would test it a few times with a vice when installing a retaining pin, see how well it comes back.
I was actually going to do the water pump also while i had everything apart, but the dealer wanted like 120bux or something like that, so the price aided with my decision to leave it in, and it was one less thing to do at the time.
Posted 17 December 2002 - 01:59 PM
Posted 17 December 2002 - 02:19 PM
Dont you think we're better than any of them !?
Just to flush them out.. hi! hi!
Posted 17 December 2002 - 02:31 PM
Posted 17 December 2002 - 02:49 PM
"I want a t-belt and while your at it check the water pump, crank seal, cam seals and oil pump O ring while checking the oil pump back plate screws : they have been known to back off ; if so, retighten with Lock Tite
and the crank pulley bolts"
I'm asking for a huge price tag..what do you think? Should I just trust that the Mech might know all these things or should I mention them and hope I don't get the 'ol "well, while we were in there we noticed that this and this and that and this were all bad and you need to pay $550 plus your right arm and first born child."
Posted 17 December 2002 - 04:59 PM
Posted 17 December 2002 - 05:13 PM
Posted 17 December 2002 - 05:29 PM
And they charge about $800 to do so.
Also re your timing belt tenstioner I had one go at 150,000KM (93,000 Miles ). Luckily it was noticed before the car was started as the engine was being worked on.
So I ask you are we being duped over here with this early timeing belt change. Also the service interval is 12,500 Km ( 7700 Miles ).
Posted 17 December 2002 - 05:38 PM
Just so I can have a methodical/educated list of stuff to check or stuff they might try to pull. Here's what I have so far:
Water pump: check-should prob. replace? (never been done that I can tell.)
Belt tensioner: check-should prob. re-place?
Crank Seal: included in cost
What else am I missing??
Posted 17 December 2002 - 07:31 PM
Make sure to have your oil pump resealed and the O-ring replaced. Its like a 30min job with the timing belt off, so it shouldnt cost too much more. Removing the pump makes it easier to change the front main seal anyways.
My oil pump started to leak really bad around 70k miles.
Posted 18 December 2002 - 09:28 AM
I have never had to replace a tensioner yet. Water pump change isnt always neccesary on the 2.2 thats a judgment call ( if the t belt breaks because of water pump it wont hurt the engine ) but on the 2.5 thats a scary thought....
Posted 18 December 2002 - 10:23 AM
Where is that exactly and do you replace it at every belt change ?
What happens when this O ring fails ?
As for the cam cover O ring, do you mean the cam cover gasket?
And when you write "right rear head", what do you mean by "rear"?
That's a lot of question, but you're talking about things I've never heard of and would like more precisions since I'll be doing that next spring.
Thanks in advance.
Posted 18 December 2002 - 11:24 AM
The other one is on the front of the head on the drivers side... romove timing belt cover, then the timing belt, then the cam pully 17mm, the 3 bolts 10mm removing the back timming cover plastic. remove the 10mm bolt that hold dipstick, then there are 2 bolt 10mm and a 12mm bolt.... unplug or remove the cam sensor and pull the alluminum extension off there will be an O ring to replace there.
THIS IS ON THE 2.2L and the 1.8L
I replace them when needed if you reach under and feel oil or if Valvcovers are leaking they might be leaking. some leak before others because peoples driving habbits are different than others and temperature makes a difference on rubber seals. ( hot cold )
Posted 18 December 2002 - 11:33 AM
That was new territory to me.
P.-S.: It seems I was wrong on that former post (higher): there ARE real mechanics here... 8o
Posted 19 December 2002 - 02:12 PM
Posted 19 December 2002 - 04:06 PM
Pump blew out that 106,500 for me. A new, not rebuilt, bosch pump cost me $55, and an additional 25 minutes while I changed the belt.
Be careful with the brand of replacement timing belt. My second belt was not Subaru, I believe it was the gates brand -- and it started to stretch after 40,000 miles causing rough idle and poor firing during low RPM acceleration.
Imagine my surprise when, after changing my water pump and timing belt, performance dramatically improved. I had spent months trying to fix the rough behavior.
Posted 19 December 2002 - 05:34 PM
Posted 19 December 2002 - 10:12 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users