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Oil Pump Bolt Sheared


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Left_coast*9

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 09:03 PM

Freakin' bummer -- putting in the new oil pump and while torquing one of the bolts sheared. :banghead: I had the wrench set to 13 ft-lbs and the manual says spec is up to 15.... GD-it! You prolly all know this but there are five bolts total, this is the left-most bolt. Do I need to drill this sucker out or ??. Can I just proceed and see if the other four bolts hold that baby on with no leaks? I DID use a new gasket and RTV sealant. H E L P

#2 WJM

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 09:26 PM

Freakin' bummer -- putting in the new oil pump and while torquing one of the bolts sheared. :banghead: I had the wrench set to 13 ft-lbs and the manual says spec is up to 15.... GD-it! You prolly all know this but there are five bolts total, this is the left-most bolt. Do I need to drill this sucker out or ??. Can I just proceed and see if the other four bolts hold that baby on with no leaks? I DID use a new gasket and RTV sealant. H E L P


Take the pump back off...dont use RTV on that thing...it needs to be CLEAN ROOM CLEAN to seal correctly....thats the best method I know if. Hopefully there is enough bolt sticking out of the block to grab with come good vise/vice grips....you really need all those bolts for the pump. Good luck!

#3 NorthWet

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 09:34 PM

GOOD NEWS!!! You sheared the bolt putting it IN, not taking it OUT. The bolt isn't corroded in place, just doesn't have a head on it.

So, do as WJM says, and see if some of the bolt is sticking out after you have oulled the pump body back off. If it is, then you are in fat city! If not, then all you need is something that will get a reasonable amount of traction in REVERSE-TWIST.

My recommendation is to have a small set of reverse twist drill bits hanging around. Start drilling at the bolt, and as soon as it gets its first "grab" it will start to back out.

Otherwise, use a normal drill bit and a reverse twist easy-out.

Relax!!! This should be pretty easy as opposed to a corroded broken bolt.

#4 WJM

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 09:35 PM

GOOD NEWS!!! You sheared the bolt putting it IN, not taking it OUT. The bolt isn't corroded in place, just doesn't have a head on it.

So, do as WJM says, and see if some of the bolt is sticking out after you have oulled the pump body back off. If it is, then you are in fat city! If not, then all you need is something that will get a reasonable amount of traction in REVERSE-TWIST.

My recommendation is to have a small set of reverse twist drill bits hanging around. Start drilling at the bolt, and as soon as it gets its first "grab" it will start to back out.

Otherwise, use a normal drill bit and a reverse twist easy-out.

Relax!!! This should be pretty easy as opposed to a corroded broken bolt.


What ^^^^ HE ^^^^ said.

#5 goatman

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 12:21 AM

I had the exact same thing happen to me when replacing my oil pump. I just took the pump back off and then used vice grips to grab broken bolt. It came out really easily since the bolt broke with me hardly tightening it. Then go to the hardware store and get new bolts.

Don't worry it should come out easily.

#6 Left_coast*9

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 12:42 AM

Freakin' bummer -- putting in the new oil pump and while torquing one of the bolts sheared. :banghead: I had the wrench set to 13 ft-lbs and the manual says spec is up to 15.... GD-it! You prolly all know this but there are five bolts total, this is the left-most bolt. Do I need to drill this sucker out or ??. Can I just proceed and see if the other four bolts hold that baby on with no leaks? I DID use a new gasket and RTV sealant. H E L P

Thanks for the replies! So don't use RTV sealant when installing the oil pump? I used it b/c the Haynes manual indicated to do so. How about using RTV w/ the water pump? I'm installing that next.
Also, I don't think it says to but I used some medium strength thread lock on these bolts. Should I not use that either? :-\ Thanks !
Lastly (on edit), where can I get another bolt? At the stealer?

#7 Turbone

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 01:34 AM

I took a look in my 86 FSM thinking that the specs might have been in "inch lbs" instead of "foot lbs". There are no torque specs for the bolts that attach the oil pump housing to the front of the block. All the specs were for the pieces that are on the pump housing itself. So in other words, dont over tighten and dont use a sealant. I wouldnt put a thread locker on them either, it will need to come off again eventually.

#8 rallyruss

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 03:25 AM

yeah I think 13ft lbs is probably too much for a 6mm bolt. the advice given already is great.
you can use rtv on a water pump if you really need to(pitted block ect) but usually a gasket with a bit of permatex aviation sealant works just fine.

I too have used rtv on the oil pump O ring before. You dont really want to though because it can squirt out into the pump area when tightening the bolts.

#9 NorthWet

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 08:15 AM

yeah I think 13ft lbs is probably too much for a 6mm bolt. ...

Most of the bolts of that size that I have dealt with were 8-10FtLbs. Still, clean bolt in clean bolt-hole I would have expected the Al threads to strip first.

And if you were using a click-stop torque wrench, I haven't found one that will reliably work under about 15 ftlbs. I have a decent 1/4" drive that you can't really feel any "click" on at that low of a setting. Beam-style in a 1/4" drive would proba be better. IMO.

#10 Left_coast*9

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 08:32 AM

thanks for the replies once again, everyone! :D Last thing: so do I need to run to my local Subaru stealer to find a new bolt? Grrrr

#11 WJM

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 08:40 AM

thanks for the replies once again, everyone! :D Last thing: so do I need to run to my local Subaru stealer to find a new bolt? Grrrr


not nessisarily....you can just take the bolts you have, match up the metric threads and lenghts EXACTLY...and away you go!

Otherwise...call 1-704-536-9635, Folger SUBARU, ask for Mike or Neil in the parts Dept., and they will hook you up. Just tell them you are from the USMB...and what you need.

#12 grossgary

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 08:58 AM

i drive an XT6, and i would not reseal an oil pump (i've done 6 or more) without using sealant. DO NOT put it on the mickey mouse o-ring. that's not the point, and i believe that's what everyone else is saying, don't put it on the o-ring. we are in agreement.

there's more to the story than the o-ring. the two halves of the engine block come together behind the oil pump. look very closely (at different angles with different light) and you'll notice a faint..or not so faint, vertical zig-zag pattern where the two halves of the block come together above and below the rotor housing of the oil pump. the sealant should be pressed into this zig zag pattern. run your finger over the zig zag, often it doesn't feel perfectly flush, this is why it is recommended to put sealant there. go light, just enough to fill and smooth any gap created by the mating of the two blocks. and don't get it on the oil pump-to-block o-ring like everyone is telling you not to.

someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but i always do this on my XT6 and it has 200,500 miles with no oil supply issues at all.

#13 WJM

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 09:11 AM

i drive an XT6, and i would not reseal an oil pump (i've done 6 or more) without using sealant. DO NOT put it on the mickey mouse o-ring. that's not the point, and i believe that's what everyone else is saying, don't put it on the o-ring. we are in agreement.

there's more to the story than the o-ring. the two halves of the engine block come together behind the oil pump. look very closely (at different angles with different light) and you'll notice a faint..or not so faint, vertical zig-zag pattern where the two halves of the block come together above and below the rotor housing of the oil pump. the sealant should be pressed into this zig zag pattern. run your finger over the zig zag, often it doesn't feel perfectly flush, this is why it is recommended to put sealant there. go light, just enough to fill and smooth any gap created by the mating of the two blocks. and don't get it on the oil pump-to-block o-ring like everyone is telling you not to.

someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but i always do this on my XT6 and it has 200,500 miles with no oil supply issues at all.


Sounds good to me, I will try that next time I have an engine apart.

#14 canajun2eh

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 09:19 AM

There's nothing special about these bolts. You might be able to get them from your local hardware store.

#15 rallyruss

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 03:51 PM

grossgary- I belive you are correct. I rember doing that on the ones I have done but it only takes just a tiny bit of sealant on a very clean surface. good point.

#16 Left_coast*9

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 04:31 PM

grossgary- I belive you are correct. I rember doing that on the ones I have done but it only takes just a tiny bit of sealant on a very clean surface. good point.


Right-on, boyz. I got that @#$%er off b/c it's little head was just barely poking out after I took the oil pump off. I used some vice-grips and slowly got it out. Freakin'-A I am stoked. :headbang: Ok, off to the hardware store to find the right bolt. **fingers WAAAY crossed**.




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