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Posted 06 September 2002 - 08:28 PM
Posted 06 September 2002 - 09:32 PM
Posted 07 September 2002 - 10:02 PM
As to the manufacturer name, I can not comment. They must be local to your area. We do not see those names here.
There is a vast range of engine oils alone and probably a similar number of manufacturers claiming theirs is best.
One of the common debates is about silicone engine oil.
If you can not decide which is best I suggest your stick with the popular brands until you decide otherwise.
AS for the use of oil with special additives I recomend extreme caution. You need to be sure that the manufacturers claims will be realised and that these modified oils are specifically suitable for the vehicle
Posted 08 September 2002 - 09:21 AM
It's virtually impossible to define a "best" lubricant since the real world throws so many variables at us. Hence, this topic usually ends up as a bunch of people's opinions, experiences, hear say, a bit of (usually suspect) test data thrown in, etc.
I've been delving into engine oils to some extent over the past couple of years, ever since I decided to try one of those oils with "special additives". Let's see if I can summarize my findings. In other words, here is my opinion .
The quality of the lubricant it important, but probably the more important thing is to "change" the lubricant periodically. If one wants to just stick with low cost dino oil, that's fine. Personally, I'd avoid the "no-name" brands, but other than that, you are probably fine to choose whatever you like. For the engine, change the oil and filter according to the manual and you should be good to go. Make sure you keep within the manufacturer's recommendations for grade and weight as indicated above.
People are aware that their engine oil needs regular changing, but many tend to forget about all the other fluids in their car. Many of these "other" fluids only need to be changed every couple of years. It's easy to forget or lose track (unless one is relying on the dealer and their servicing schedule.) Other fluids include transmissions, differentials, brake system, power steering, radiator, perhaps hydraulic clutch, etc. I shake my head when I hear of automatic transmission problems on (say) 8 yo cars. The ATF probably got changed once around the 2 or 3 year mark while still under warranty, then got forgotten about. Owners don't have a clue when the last fluid change was done and blame their car for being a piece of junk because they now have a $1000+ bill for transmission work. (Note - there could be many reasons for transmission problems. I'm just making a point.)
If you want to consider synthetic fluids, you are now into another realm. There is much debate regarding synthetics. I'm not going to get into it (much) here except to say that one is probably best to do a little studying, if so inclined. In general, I'd say that they are superior. Can you extend change intervals? Lots of debate here. I'm going to stay out of it for the moment. What brand to chose? I'll leave that up to you. One of the more commonly selected brands is Mobil 1. It is generally regarded as a quality product AND it is readily available. You can find it at Walmart.
The ONE place to be wary about the use of synthetic oil is in a manual transmission. A manual transmission has two conflicting needs from the oil. First, it requires lubrication for the bearings and gears (which synthetic provides very well). Second, it needs SOME friction for proper synchromesh unit operation. Synthetic oils can be "too good" and not provide sufficient friction, thus the synchos take longer to do their thing and grinding can result. One oil that supposedly addresses this is the "NS" products from Redline.
I consider the oils like Redline, Amsoil and Royal Purple to be in a different class from the "big boys" synthetics. These are smaller companies usually concocting special blends for higher performance. Just keep in mind that "higher performance" may or may not be what you need or want for your daily driver. Some of these oils don't even have the usual industry certifications. (I've seen a lot of discussion about this regarding Amsoil.) Availability is another issue. If you are going to go this route, you have a choice. Become familiar with the products and make an educated decision, or alternately, place your trust in "someone" and accept the outcome.
There can be many valid reasons for considering an upgrade of your car’s fluids. Climate, towing, offroading, auto-cross, etc. Each person will have to decide for themselves the “value” that comes with the associated cost.
One point I would like to make concerns the engine oil filter. A quality filter can go a long way towards reducing wear on an engine. All indications are that the Subaru Purolator filter is actually a darn good filter. If you want to move a step up, I'd suggest the Purolator PureONE filter. (If you buy a case of 12, you should be able to negotiate anywhere from 25% to 50% off list.) I'm also a fan of the use of oil filter magnets. A one time purchase item. The magnet will capture "any" size of magnetic particle, even those that would flow right through the filter.
You can get even more esoteric with lubricants if you want. I've come come across a few people using Motul products. Personally, I'm using SynLube. (Talk about a product that is "out there"! )
The prior point about longevity of the drivetrain vs the rest of the car is a good one. (Oops... that's in another current thread somewhere.) One can go nuts making their drivetrain last virtually forever if they want to, however, the springs will probably be poking out of the seat and the seat will be probably be sinking through the floorboards. A certain "balance" needs to be struck.
So chose your lubricants and fluids wisely. Right now, after typing all this, I think my "fluid" of choice is a beer!
Posted 08 September 2002 - 12:09 PM
BTW, I'm drinking a beer as I type this
Posted 08 September 2002 - 12:34 PM
Posted 08 September 2002 - 09:26 PM
Posted 12 September 2002 - 09:46 AM
Posted 12 September 2002 - 03:32 PM
canedog18 - I don't know what you are experiencing with synthetic oil in your manual transmission. By no means am I saying that synthetics should not be used. It's just that they "may" affect synchromesh operation in a negative manner. From what I've read, the results of using synthetic in a manual transmission vary drastically. All over the spectrum from "now I'm getting grinding" to "no change" to "now it's smooth as butter". And there doesn't seem to be much of a pattern either. I believe the driver and their shifting style is the biggest variable.
There is a current topic (on page 2 right now) about oil filter magnets. The info you asked for is there.
Posted 15 September 2002 - 12:11 PM
Bottom line in my opinion. Synthetics in the engine and diffs, but leave the trans for the conventional lube.
Posted 16 September 2002 - 11:47 AM
Posted 16 September 2002 - 10:28 PM
Good to read up on to help when making lube choices. No additives going in to my subie. Castrol Syntech ( you get the best of both worlds) in the crankcase and standard lubes in everything else. I have known about the big teflon debate for years now and I have never used anything with it. As far as filters go, Puralator's are all that I have ever used. Fluid of choice is whiskey for now(as in right now).
The solgan said it all:
Pure oil now,
Pure oil later,
(Did I spell that right?)
I think that I have filtered enough J.D. for tonite and now I'm off to bed, unless the wife makes me sleep on the couch.
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