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Weapon-R is a-comin' off
Posted 17 February 2002 - 03:48 PM
The thing looks cool, have to say, and this isn't going to be the last aftermarket intake for Huggy. But the Weapon-R doesn't mount quite right without help, and since all it's sucking in is hot engine bay air, I want something different.
For now what I've done is picked up the intake pipe assembly from the 97+ EJ22s, you know the one with the honkin' big box sitting just behind the intake plenum (the 95-96 Legacies don't have those). I figure having the air reservoir of the big box will take care of the 'bogging' issues that showed up after taking the original filter box out. I will probably also put the original filter box back, at least temporarily, but pull the snorkel out of the fender.
It'll be interesting to see how it behaves & sounds.
WAY down the road I'm hoping to put in a Cobb-style intake. Does anyone know if Cobb (or anyone else) has one that'll work on the Legacy EJ22 yet?
Posted 17 February 2002 - 04:15 PM
The intake filter is goin to be comin off shortly. Especially with the extremely hot temps here in Houston (just drove down yesterday.....10 hrs, 646 miles.....I was good....only broke 100 mph once )
My plans are goin to probably put the stock box back on...put a K&N drop in filter in, and add an extra air pickup to the bottom of the box.
I would love to find/borrow someone else's K&N drop in filter to see how the car drives with it compared to the intake I have now. I have tested the intake I have now compared against the paper filter and stock box. The car revvs MUCH better with the cone filter.....More air....however the bog, or drop of mid range is really starting to piss me off. I need to find another solution.
As for the cobb intake. You will find that it is meant for MAP sensor....ie no place for the MAF sensor. As of now, the only way you'll get it to work is custom do something. That doesn't mean it won't work....but you'll have to get creative. I know you can do that
Posted 17 February 2002 - 04:51 PM
Here's another thing that I yet to see discussed:
The hood scoop is just a decoration, but it looks like the plate on the underside of the hood comes off with about 6 screws. If the scoop can actually perform some cold air direction, why not use it to "power" an intercooler.? It should be easy to add a heatsink to the plenum right in front of the throttle body.
Has anyone tried this?
Posted 17 February 2002 - 04:58 PM
Posted 17 February 2002 - 11:06 PM
You don't want to intercooler a N/A engine. You will create a rather large restriction in the intake, and you'll do more harm then good.
With turbo engines you have higher pressures to help negate the effects of a pressure drop across the intercooler. Plus you have alot higher intake temps because you are compressing the air.
A sorta rule of thumb is that with N/A engines you want a free-flowing intake. With turbo engines, colder intake charge temps help more.
As far as the hood scoop. I have heard of people adding like a ram air thing. With the legacy it would be almost impossible to do because we have a MAF sensor. You would almost have to duct air from the scoop, run it back down towards the front of the car, then to the filter setup. You would want some sort of collector box, or pressure equalization box to help against sudden surges of air pressure or lack there of. To do it right would get pretty hairy.
Posted 17 February 2002 - 11:18 PM
Posted 18 February 2002 - 01:18 AM
Add a double sided finned heatsink to the top of the plastic box on the throttle body. Not a real intercooler but enough to drastically lower the temp of the intake air, and thus increase the density a bit. The heatsink would have to as large as possible and integrated into the box. The air from the scoop would travel over it and do the cooling.
The other way to do this would be to fabricate a set of pipes out of copper and add the required fittings to make the air flow through them and into the throttle body. The scoop would ram air thru to the pipe matrix and cool the intake.
A bunch of 3/4 inch copper pipe and solder should do the trick. The only hard part is the large diameter stuff and adapting down and back up..
(BTW, what do you mean N/A)
Posted 18 February 2002 - 01:34 AM
Posted 18 February 2002 - 09:11 AM
The copper pipe thing. You have a legacy correct? Most...if not all have a MAF sensor, you must take this into the equation, as to where it's located and such. You'd have to run some tubing, and copper tubin is going to suck up the heat from the engine compartment.
Not tryin to be a wet blanket, but if you have a MAF sensor, doing intake modifications should really be thought out, or you're goin to end up buying one of those nice little expensive things.
N/A = Normally Aspirated
Posted 18 February 2002 - 02:27 PM
The above applies to the heat sink idea, and copper tube idea is even worse. All the above applies, and the small tubing further restricts airflow, causing more of a power loss all the time than power gained in a short time at high speed.
Save your money and time on this idea, don't bother.
Posted 18 February 2002 - 02:37 PM
He has a point about water cooling the inlet on a N/A, it will make a difference, water has 4 times more cooling affect than air, hard to describe what he is talking about though.
I'll post a pic to my website.
Posted 18 February 2002 - 07:14 PM
just INSULATE the intake plenum. No need for a cooler, and it will be cooler than a heatsink catching warm underhood air.
It feels just like starting the car on a cool day, except it has that power all day long.
You WILL notice a difference between seasons, because air temp is much more variable when it's not at 140 from underhood engine temp.
1) Heat Tape. Some car stores sell it. Easy and neat, might cost a bit.
2) Household plumbing heat tape. Works very well, you'll need a couple of rolls. Does not like to stick to some plastics (like the oily stuff in the newer subes).
3) Insulating wrap, like a cut-up silver plastic sunshade. Wrap the whole thing in sections like a christmas present.
tips: do each part in sections so it can be worked on in the future. Wrap each section with the intake in your lap, removed from the car. take your time-- it looks like something NASA did if you pull it off right.
Also-- You don't have to remove the entire snorky for a gains to be had. In fact, if you appreciate "stealth", leave the lower bulge in tact and just cut the pipe feeding into it. That way it stays quieter but there's still a good improvement in power.
Posted 19 February 2002 - 09:35 AM
If you're thinking about an intake, look no further. Bogging issues . . . NONE. Low end torque loss . . . NONE. Increase in midrange torque . . . slight. Increase in high end power . . . UNBELIEVEABLE!!
I took the time to flog the hell outta my car before the installation of the intake. I used to have the stock intake with silencer removal mod plus K&N filter. The intake made nice low-midrange torque . . . with a torque peak at 4000rpms . . . after that, the engine would just not pull as hard. I would also notice a severe bogging/hiccup at 5500rpm. After installation of the Cobb intake . . .the engine pulls hard from 2500rpm to redline. It still bogs a LITTLE . . . but the engine pulls through the powerband SO FAST, that it is barely noticeable:D
This intake SCREAMS!! I used to own a Minnam intake . . . that thing was loud (similar to a Weapon-R). I don't know how to explain it, but it's a different kinda intake growl. Kinda like the difference between a boxer engine with an exhaust vs. an inline engine with an exhaust. The difference is there. That being said, my exhaust is LOUD, but once I'm at WOT at around 4000rpm, I cannot hear the exhaust anymore!!
Another interesting observation is that the intake makes a hissing/whoosh/whistling sound when the temp is less than 40 degrees outside. I can only compare it to a BOV letting off pressure throughout the powerband. A friend of mine was sitting in his car and wanted me to accelerate past him . . . . he could've sworn it sounded like my car was turboed!! Said he thought he heard a turbo spooling:D
I know what you're thinking . . . this guy is prolly talking out of his rump roast just because he has this intake that he spent good money on that he wants to make himself feel better buying by lying about it's usefulness on the board . . . I thought the same thing after reading some of the hundreds of posts on the I-club about this intake.
Believe it or not . . .it works . . . and it works VERY well!!
I'll post a picture (or link t a picture) of the completed intake hopefully tonight, as I have to meet another I-clubber with a digital camera. More to come . . .
Posted 19 February 2002 - 01:56 PM
Posted 19 February 2002 - 03:10 PM
I ended up buying the intake used from somebody off the I-club for about $160 (which is why I was willing to take a chance cutting it for my application). You can find the intake at www.cobbtuning.com, but be prepared to shell out $280 and wait a few months as I hear they are backordered:(
Another option is to contact Larry Ganz. His website is www.imprezars.com. He has an agreement with Cobb Tuning to sell the parts needed to make this intake piecemeal . . . don't know who much it would cost from him.
Just in case anybody goes the Cobb Tuning route, these are the additional parts needed (Larry supplies all of these parts, I believe):
3 inch MAF adapter plate (can be had from any Subaru performance shop)
3"-2" rubber hose coupler to seal the intake into the fenderwell (Home Depot).
3"-3" rubber hose coupler to connect filter housing to Maf adapter plate (Home Depot).
Hacksaw to cut aluminum intake tubing.
What I noticed is that I DON'T even need a MAF bracket. The MAF (and intake for that matter) . . . I almost perfectly fixed to the fenderwell, except for a little freeplay from the silicone hose couplers (those rubber couplers are A LOT stiffer).
Additional installation instructions can be provided.
Posted 19 February 2002 - 03:33 PM
Contact Larry Ganz from his website (www.imprezars.com) and get a prm inline filter. Then, all you'll need is some aluminum tubing to route the intake tract into the fenderwell and the associated hose couplers from Home Depot. Should end up costing you just about as much as I paid ($160).
GET THE INTAKE!!!
Posted 19 February 2002 - 03:59 PM
Posted 19 February 2002 - 04:25 PM
Posted 19 February 2002 - 04:31 PM
Posted 19 February 2002 - 04:58 PM
Schpiro, Fuji heavy industries does make parts for planes . . . engines, F-16 parts, etc. The reason the hoodscoop is there is more for cooling the intercooler on the Jap-spec cars . . . due to the reasons you've specified.
I have noticed that after a hard run (I have been making A LOT of hard runs lately:D ) the intake tubing is still cool to the touch . . . the aluminum tubing sits conveniently under and behind the hoodscoop, so it serves some purpose.
Posted 19 February 2002 - 11:23 PM
other thing.....how much for you K&N drop in panel filter?
Asssumin you want to sell it.
Posted 20 February 2002 - 10:00 AM
I'm just waiting until my friend uploads the pictures onto his computer.
As for the panel filter . . . if you want it, I'll let it go for $20+shipping. Lemme know if you still want it.
Posted 20 February 2002 - 11:03 AM
Shoot me an email on how you want to be paid and all that stuff.
Posted 20 February 2002 - 12:03 PM
Posted 20 February 2002 - 12:15 PM
You see why I can't post these pictures by myself?
I would give send you guys the pics but as of now, they are in my friend's possession. Sorry.
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